Questions From New GSR Owner
I just bought a '95 GSR and i have a couple of questions. First my ABS light is on, does anyone know the possible causes? And also for the first 30 seconds or so when i first start my car there is a loud buzzing noise then it stops. My cat was making a lot of noise at around 3500 rpm's so im just replacing it for the time being with a straight pipe. Any problems there? And every now and then when i start it up it takes a couple of seconds longer to start than normal.
hmmm
-first 30 seconds: is the buzz coming from under the car or from the engine bay? that start-up buzz could be the stock converters headshields rattling due to fast idle. OR it could be the ABS pressurizing.
-ABS light: can be on due to ABS unit failure, ABS sensor failure, or ABS computer failure. you will have to pull the ABS codes the same you would pull the ECU codes.
-Startup problem: replace your fuel filter, plugs, plug wires. if that doesn't do it, get ready to replace your distributor cap & rotor. then it can go onto ignitor and/or coil.
-first 30 seconds: is the buzz coming from under the car or from the engine bay? that start-up buzz could be the stock converters headshields rattling due to fast idle. OR it could be the ABS pressurizing.
-ABS light: can be on due to ABS unit failure, ABS sensor failure, or ABS computer failure. you will have to pull the ABS codes the same you would pull the ECU codes.
-Startup problem: replace your fuel filter, plugs, plug wires. if that doesn't do it, get ready to replace your distributor cap & rotor. then it can go onto ignitor and/or coil.
the buzzing is coming from (it sounds like) under the hood to the right. Someone suggested it might me the smog pump (A.I.R. pump). The engine is super quiet it idles at about 800-1000 rpm and you can only hear the injecters pulsing. How about the straight pipe? Thanks for any help
okay, that buzzing IS your ABS pump pressurizing. it shouldn't take 30 seconds though. Maybe that is why you are throwing an ABS code...
stock idle is 750 +/- 50 RPMs, and straight pipe until you get a new converter (i hope) will be fine - but you wont pass emissions to save your life.
stock idle is 750 +/- 50 RPMs, and straight pipe until you get a new converter (i hope) will be fine - but you wont pass emissions to save your life.
Originally Posted by jlucas14
the buzzing is coming from (it sounds like) under the hood to the right. Someone suggested it might me the smog pump (A.I.R. pump). The engine is super quiet it idles at about 800-1000 rpm and you can only hear the injecters pulsing. How about the straight pipe? Thanks for any help
That's the ABS pumping up. Check the fluid reservoir over at the ABS unit. Maybe you have to bleed air out of it? Maybe it's more serious than that. Read the ABS trouble code & post back. If you find a list of codes posted, beware - '98+ cars have a different system with a different set of codes.
Reach up above where the right-side kick-panel & glovebox come together. There's a green rubber holder with 2 blue plastic wire plugs in it. The one with 2 wires (brown/white & ???) is the service-check-connector. Turn on the ignition & jumper that with a paperclip. The ABS light will blink it's code. Long = 10; short = 1.
If your ECU has any engine faults stored, the check-engine light will flash it's own code...
If your ECU has any engine faults stored, the check-engine light will flash it's own code...



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