After adjusting the valves, have any of you had to re-torque the pulley bolt? Is it necessary? I ask because the Helms manual says to do so after adjusting the valves. If you do re-torque it, I'm assuming it has to be loosened first, meaning it needs be turned counter-clockwise which is the same direction you need to turn it when adjusting each of the cylinder's valves. How do you loosen the bolt while not letting the pulleys rotate? When it comes time to tighten it, or re-torque it, how do you do that if the manual says NOT to rotate the crankshaft clockwise as this will 'result in improper adjustment of the timing belt tension'? Is there another tool needed besides the torque wrench? If so, what is it?

Next series of questions is regarding resetting of the ECU. I've read threads about people having idle problems or problems w/ the rpm while test driving after their valves adjusted. The answer to this problem as suggested by others was to reset the ECU. But I've read a few different ways of doing that. Some said to remove the negative terminal of the battery conection. Others have said to remove some fuse(s) (can't remember) for 30-60 seconds, then put them back. Which is the correct/proper way of resetting the ECU? Why do I need to do it after adjusting the valves? Thanks in advance to anyone who has the expertise and, most importantly, the patience to explain all of this to me. I appreciate it.

 

Assuming your timing belt is connected to your cam sprockets, you'll turn the engine using the harmonic balancer when you go to adjust each cylinder. Retorquing the bolt is just insurance and piece of mind. Because you're putting pressure on it, it can torque in excess or loosen a little. My buddy and I have had to readjust the valve lash a dozen or so times (for one reason or another) in the past two months, and have retorqued the pulley every time. The alternative is taking off the timing belt and rotating the cams by the timing gear sprocket's bolt... in which case, you'd have to retorque it, and then set your timing again.

As for the ECM/PCM... either pulling the Radio fuse or disconnecting the negative terminal will reset it. You should do it before you start working on the cams, then put it back when you're done. That way you'll know the EEPROM chip is cleared. Good luck. :thumbup:

 

I won't be removing the timing belt (least not for another 20-30K) so I guess I'll be using the harmonic balancer. But what exactly is a harmonic balancer? And how do I loosen the bolt w/o turning the pulleys when trying to re-torque? Is this what the harmonic balancer allows me to do? Thanks in advance.

 

The harmonic balancer basically dampens out some of the vibration associated with reciprocating engines. Without one, your engine will literally shake itself loose. It also helps to keep the drivetrain balanced and revolving smoothly. There's a couple of ways to keep the engine from turning over when you go to torque it down and loosen it. My buddy and I chock the back tires, mash the brakes, and put the car in fifth gear...utilizing a great big breaker bar and about three feet in extensions. If you have the pan pulled you can wedge a two-by-four in between the block and your crank (we did that twice when the engine was out). You can jack the car up and have a buddy hold the harmonic balancer with a strap wrench. Or you can buy a special tool (the part number is in your helms... Moroso also sells one for about 65 bucks) that holds the balancer, while you crank on the bolt with your torque wrench/breaker bar.