D16Y7/Y8 VTEC Swap- Wiring Questions?
 

My civic came with a d16y7 (non-vtec) and I am in the middle of doing a mini-me build using y8 parts. I already have a head and ecu from a y8 and my next step is to get an intake manifold from a y8. I have already read plenty of sights and I have heard many different things and still haven't heard exactly what i need to know. So, 1. Should i get a y8 manifold from an automatic or manual (my car and new ecu are both manuals)? and 2. What other parts do i need and what issues will i have with the wiring harness and sensors? I have heard something about 2-wire and 3-wire IACV, so let me know something...

You will have to wire in for a 2 wire iac you probably have a 3 wire now. You will have to wire in one wire for vtec solenoid and 2 wires for vtec pressure switch.

Get the etm for you car and dig threw the pgmfi section. www.hondatech.info

Thanks. That should help out, but what about the manifold? My car is a manual but i've read at a few sites that i should maybe get a manifold from an automatic y8 because of something to do with the IACV. Anybody know?

If it has a 3 wire iac it would be easier to swap. What do you have now a 3 wire or 2 wire iac.

Don't mean to sound dumb, but i'm not exactly sure where the IAC is located on my engine. I think it might be located on the throttle body opposite the rotor, and if it is it is a 3 wire..

Sorry, just realized that's not where the IAC is located. I still can't seem to find it though. I know it's normally located on the back of the manifold but mine is all weird shaped. The throttle body is mounted on top of the manifold and everything is in different spots.

On the air box mounted to the throttle body their is a big hose running to the iac. If you pinch the hose the engine dies because it blocks iac air supply. The way you are talking about it you probably have a 2 wire. The iac also has 2 hoses going to it to keep it from freezing.

So look for and electrical plug and 2 cooling hoses.

So to carry on if it is a 2 way it is easier to stay 2 wire.

A 2 wire ecu will only run a 2 wire iac a 3 wire ecu will only run a 3 wire iac but the harness can be modified to run both. See what I am saying now.

Ok, I'm almost positive i found my IACV and yea i understand the deal with 2 only working with 2 wire and 3 only working with 3 wire now. I've read a few ecu wiring diagrams tonight and found some good info and raised one more question. So, the vtec ecu i'm going to be using uses a 2 wire IACV so i will need a manifold and 2 wire IACV from a manual y8, because my non-vtec is currently running a 3 wire. I think I've figured that out, but now the other thing i noticed is that the vtec ecu has a pin for a knock sensor. My current ecu and harness doesn't have that!? Is this going to cause problems? And what's a possible solution to that? Thanks for everything so far...

You will get a knock code. But that can be wired in to. What ecu are you going to use? The p28 doesn't have knock. Some of the p30s do and the p72 do.

You can also chip and disable the knock system. I can chip if that helps at all.

Also I don't know if you are going obd0 or obd1 but all the obdos didn't come with knock. The only 2 ecus for vtec are pw0 or pr3. But a pm6,pr4,ps9 can all me modified to run a vtec motor threw turbo edit.

I will be running a p2p ecu. My car is a 97 Civic DX, and i'm pretty much just converting my engine over to a 97 Civic EX engine. That is what the p2p came out of. I am running the stock engine that came in my car (DX), but I will be running the head, ecu, and intake manifold from the EX of the same model, so it is all OBD2. What would be the best route to go from here?