Hey guys,
I got a problem here...
Got a 93 DX coupe
B16A bolck, GSR head...
I got a custom turbo kit, done by me and my friends at the shop, pieced together from various parts not broken from my old trubo kit...
BTW, don't buy TSI (turbo Specialties Kits)... They are CRAP...
I got one from Slowboy racing, just cause I wanted a GOOD QUALITY kit, and I got PLAYED....
The guys there sold me a T-20 turbo for my B16A... WTF????
Of course, me being naive at the time, decided it looked like the best option, well turns out the turbo was WAY WAY tooooo small. I thought it was a T-25 when I first got it, but after it died, we pulled it apart and the turbine wheel was alot smaller than a Mitsu 12A turbo. So, I still don't understand why the turbo broke, it just siezed one day... And no it's not cause of lack of oil, or anything, because it had plenty... I'm guessing it was being EXCESSIVELY overspun, with a redline of 8 grand, the turbo couldn't flow ANY air up high....
So, I put on a TD05-14B, with tons of custom fabrication, and it worked great for like 3 weeks...
Then all of a sudden while I was on highway, the tach started "jumping" all over the place, and it was making no power... This happened while it was raining, so I thought the distriubutor was gettin damp...
Well, it turns out that the dist was dry and all....
So I checked Coil, it was ok.
Checked spark plugs, swapping them with others, same problem.
Then I changed computer MAP with my buddies, who's running B16a w/ 14b...
it got a lil better, but it still occurs... and now it seems like it takes for ever for it to boost up. I mean like the timing is gettin retarded....
Could this be the Distributor itself?? I've read a "jumping" tach means a bad coil, but I just changed it last year, and it checks ok (ohms), So WTF???
anyone else have this prob??
I'm running Uberdata
450 DSM injectors
1 degree timing retard/psi boost
B7k NGK's at 0.30 gap
Any help would be appreciated...

 

Drastic change in weather recently?
Sounds like it my be running too rich..

 

No real drastic change in weather here, although when it started happening the first time, it was cold and raining...
I got a chance to work on my car this weekend for a little...
I have a couple probs...
the tach seems to be fine now, and there seems to be no more "jumping" occuring, but it stills takes a long time to boost up...
I mean if i floor it in 2nd at 2 grand, i dont get 2-3 lbs of boost steady until like 4000rpms...then it only boosts up to 6 or 7 when it's hitting 7000 rpms???
My buddy has a T3/T4 and it don't even take that long to boost up...WTF??
I checked, rechecked for boost leaks, none found.
I am so fed up I'm about to just give up on the damn thing.
I replaced the blown t25 with my bro's perfect, (no shaft play AT ALL) 14b, and it worked great for like 3 weeks.
I DID NOT install a restrictor for the oil on the 14b, because I thought my other turbo might have blown cause of the lack of oil???
So now I have A real problem with the car burning oil, and there is TONS of oil in the charge pipes. so much in fact, that it "blows off" onto the hood, and everything???? I've consulted DSM guys and my buddies who turbo everything...
Hell dude even has same setup as me, B16a w 14b, and his rips!!!
I've determined it to be a couple of things, and i hope u guys can help me figure it out.
The oil supposedly gets in there from "blown turbo seals", yet the turbo was perfect when first installed, and oil pressure was same, so if the seals "blew out" even though they are METAL, it should've happened right away??? WTF? this is sooooo annoying...
The car works perfect, at idle, driving and everything, just that it takes for ever to boost up, and it burns oil like crazy under and after boosting????
I've done the PVC system, so it's not coming in through the PVC system... We even took off the PVC line to the PRE-Turbo pipe, and it still smokes like crazy....

Here is a prob that I noticed after the other problems started---the pvc valve was still being used, connected to the pre-turbo pipe, but the opening was cut off because of the piping and a mistake when we put on air filter---therefore, the crankcase was being pressurized by itself, and could not relieve it's pressure, this is my hypothesis... So is the turbo blown, I mean I could just get another 14b for like $100, but I wanted to see what u guys thought.

It could be broken piston rings, cause something rattles uunder boost and accel, but then the motor would smoke ALL the time, not just under boost??
I'm really gettin annoyed with this thing, it's supposed to be a very fast car, yet it runs like shit...
Thanks for the help guys.
Later.

 

First off, thats a mighty small turbo for that motor...
Are you running someone else's base map? If so get it tuned for your car, every car is different.
Is the oil drain line verticle, or is it angled? The oil can pool up inside the turbo (bearing housing) and leak out when it cant drain fast enough...common problem.
Doibt your rings are toast, you wouldn't hear rattling. Describe this rattle. usually a rattle (from the engine) is either detonation or valves..

If the car was tuned on a hot day, (say 90 degree's out) a change in weather (say 30 degree's) could be enough to cause your car to run rich....depending on how rich the mapping was.....
It sounds like an overly rich condition, by the symptoms, but a lean condition by the sounds you describe (rattle)....

 

Hey,
Well, the first turbo, the t25 or whatever was WAY too small, the turbine wheel was extremely small...
So, u say the 14b is "mighty small", how do u mean??
Acoording to this web-page, which is very good, the 14b "comes close to the performance" of a big 16G, so why would it be Mighty small?
http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm
I can agree that it may be a little small, I'm not looking to push 300hp, and with this turbo, I can achieve great response and good top-end power...
Besides, I determined through analysis that this would be perfect for me...
In addition, the 14b is extremely reliable, and it's very plentiful and cheap, can't say that for a hybrid...
Second, I'm technically running someone else's map, but he has the EXACT same setup as me... B16A, 14b, 450's, same P28 computer, etc...
Besides, I tried my other friend's map, cause he didn't have laptop and chip burner, and he's running a T3/T4 with 450's, on a B16A and actually his ran even a little better than the one I have right now.
He also said that this particular chip I have now, has more fuel low and less up top... We were concerned b/c when we pulled plugs they showed a lil' lean....
So I'm assuming T3/T4 chip would have more fuel, but it ran better, so that eliminates the possibility of it running excessively rich, where it could hinder performance such as described.

I totally agree with you about the oil situation, that was my thought exactly cause the oil drain line is horizontal for like 6 inches... but nowhere is it vertical again, where it would stop the oil from flowing downward... I've read that even a slight imperfection (bead) in the oil drian hose will cause smoke...

As for the rattle, My bro who is a mechanic and my tuner/friends both say for a fact it's not detonation, they've heard it...because it's not a pinging sound... But my car does have ALOT of vibration so it could just be something rattling under hard accel.

I drove in my friends car (B16A civic, 91, with a T3/T4) and it spools up alot faster than my car does... I could have slight boost leaks, but the turbo spooling problem started even though I never touched my piping... I even checked the entire piping system and validated for sure that all pipes are secure and tight...
My first and biggest concern is the oil smoke, but it could be related to the spool problem...
I'm gonna change my oil drain hose this weekend when I get a chance.
Thanks alot for the input...