DIY: Rear pads/rotors (disc brakes) 04 Accord
04-15-2008, 11:17 AM
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DIY: Rear pads/rotors (disc brakes) 04 Accord
I've been looking for something else, but decided to write this up (hat tip to tegger as I found this on his site) as there's a lot of people who post how, but no details or pictures..
If you have rear disc brakes, you might not have the normal piston on the rear caliper. If so, you'll have a screw type piston that torques out and holds. The more it wears on the pads and rotors, the more it torques and stays out. You do NOT want to simply force it back in. It doesn't really work that way.
The step by step:
Tools needed:
Jack
Jack stands
Socket wrench (size will depend on the size for your sockets, probably a 3/8 or a 1/2)
breaker bar (if needed)
12 MM socket
14 MM socket
impact driver
BFH
Socket to remove lug nuts (size will depend on if you have stock of after market wheels with a diff size).
Loosen the lug nuts and get the car up. Get the rear tires off.
With the tires off, you have 4 nuts that hold on the brake assembly. Two 12mm bolts hold on the caliper and 2 14mm bolts hold on bracket for the pads. Use the breaker bar if you can't turn with the socket wrench. You won't need much to break them, 1/16 of an inch is plenty of a turn to go back to the reg wrench. It's a bit awkward to work on the side with a breaker bar, try all different angles to get it in, again you don't need to turn it much to break it loose.
The rotor is held in by 2 screws (machined on - tighter than hell). Take your impact driver (if batt/air) and just drive them out. If you have a hand impact driver, beat the driver in with about ~7-10 hits to make sure you've broken it loose. Try to hand torque off (use a #3 bit - ANYTHING SMALLER WILL STRIP THE SCREW), don't kill yourself trying, just give it a couple more thwacks and it'll break loose soon enough..
Back to the caliper: If you have a long screw flat head driver with a big head (like a foot or longer) simply place it between the grooves and slowly torque to loosen it. You'll see it torque in and move the piston back. Tegger has a video showing it and it can be seen here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/screw-in.wmv
When you go to re-assemble
1) Only hand tighten the rotor screws. Don't use the impact driver to lock them in. There will be some grit and brake dust that seeps in and will lock them in place (with added heat for secure holding).
2) Some suggest throwing some anti-seize on the screws so they don't lock in again. I did, but it's up to you.
Hand tightening on all the bolts for the pad bracket and the caliper should be sufficient as the heat will dust will lock them in place. If you have the manual and a wrench that shows the force, you can return the bolts to factory specs.
Again, hat tip to tegger for this guide. It saved me some trouble of figuring it out when I did this a week ago. He's got plenty of guides on his site, check it out:
http://www.tegger.com/
If you have rear disc brakes, you might not have the normal piston on the rear caliper. If so, you'll have a screw type piston that torques out and holds. The more it wears on the pads and rotors, the more it torques and stays out. You do NOT want to simply force it back in. It doesn't really work that way.
The step by step:
Tools needed:
Jack
Jack stands
Socket wrench (size will depend on the size for your sockets, probably a 3/8 or a 1/2)
breaker bar (if needed)
12 MM socket
14 MM socket
impact driver
BFH
Socket to remove lug nuts (size will depend on if you have stock of after market wheels with a diff size).
Loosen the lug nuts and get the car up. Get the rear tires off.
With the tires off, you have 4 nuts that hold on the brake assembly. Two 12mm bolts hold on the caliper and 2 14mm bolts hold on bracket for the pads. Use the breaker bar if you can't turn with the socket wrench. You won't need much to break them, 1/16 of an inch is plenty of a turn to go back to the reg wrench. It's a bit awkward to work on the side with a breaker bar, try all different angles to get it in, again you don't need to turn it much to break it loose.
The rotor is held in by 2 screws (machined on - tighter than hell). Take your impact driver (if batt/air) and just drive them out. If you have a hand impact driver, beat the driver in with about ~7-10 hits to make sure you've broken it loose. Try to hand torque off (use a #3 bit - ANYTHING SMALLER WILL STRIP THE SCREW), don't kill yourself trying, just give it a couple more thwacks and it'll break loose soon enough..
Back to the caliper: If you have a long screw flat head driver with a big head (like a foot or longer) simply place it between the grooves and slowly torque to loosen it. You'll see it torque in and move the piston back. Tegger has a video showing it and it can be seen here:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/screw-in.wmv
When you go to re-assemble
1) Only hand tighten the rotor screws. Don't use the impact driver to lock them in. There will be some grit and brake dust that seeps in and will lock them in place (with added heat for secure holding).
2) Some suggest throwing some anti-seize on the screws so they don't lock in again. I did, but it's up to you.
Hand tightening on all the bolts for the pad bracket and the caliper should be sufficient as the heat will dust will lock them in place. If you have the manual and a wrench that shows the force, you can return the bolts to factory specs.
Again, hat tip to tegger for this guide. It saved me some trouble of figuring it out when I did this a week ago. He's got plenty of guides on his site, check it out:
http://www.tegger.com/
