DIY 6th gen Civic brake pad and rotor change
01-21-2006, 05:34 PM
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DIY 6th gen Civic brake pad and rotor change
I just changed out my brake pads and rotors (front discs) so I decided to make a DIY out of it. I read how-tos and the Honda factory service manual. I'm not a professional mechanic so I'd appreciate any corrections if necessary. Check out my DIY 6th gen civic suspension for my other DIY.
DIY 6th gen Civic brake pad and rotor change
Tools needed:
- 10mm, 12mm, 17mm socket and wrench
- big philips impact screwdriver
- mallet
- hammer
- brake cleaner
- silicon grease (if your pads didn't come with any)
1) Jack up the front of the car and put them on stands, remove the front wheels.
2) Remove the two 10mm bolts on the brake line bracket so the line can swing free.
3) (Seen from the inside of the wheel well), remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on. These bolts were the toughest part of this experience. I had to use a steel wrench and bang it with a mallet to get them loose.
DIY 6th gen Civic brake pad and rotor change
Tools needed:
- 10mm, 12mm, 17mm socket and wrench
- big philips impact screwdriver
- mallet
- hammer
- brake cleaner
- silicon grease (if your pads didn't come with any)
1) Jack up the front of the car and put them on stands, remove the front wheels.
2) Remove the two 10mm bolts on the brake line bracket so the line can swing free.
3) (Seen from the inside of the wheel well), remove the two 17mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on. These bolts were the toughest part of this experience. I had to use a steel wrench and bang it with a mallet to get them loose.
Last edited by chimchim; 01-23-2006 at 10:01 AM.
01-21-2006, 05:41 PM
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4) With the two bolts removed, the caliper will come free (don't drop it!). You can either hang it with some wire, or use something to support it. The only thing attaching it to the car now is the flimsy brake line.
5) Using the impact screwdriver (or muscle with a big philips screwdriver), remove the two 8mm screws which are securing the brake rotor.
6) Now that the screws are off, only rust and crud hold the rotor on. Bang it with a hammer to pop it off. I banged it on the rotor center, not on the rotor brake surface. Remove the old rotor, clean off gunk on the hub. Clean the new rotor, and mount the new rotor on.
7) Replace the screws (light torque, 8 ft-lbs), put the caliper back on and torque the mounting bolts to 80 ft-lbs. Leave the brake line braket off, cuz we're not done.
Next... the brake pads.
5) Using the impact screwdriver (or muscle with a big philips screwdriver), remove the two 8mm screws which are securing the brake rotor.
6) Now that the screws are off, only rust and crud hold the rotor on. Bang it with a hammer to pop it off. I banged it on the rotor center, not on the rotor brake surface. Remove the old rotor, clean off gunk on the hub. Clean the new rotor, and mount the new rotor on.
7) Replace the screws (light torque, 8 ft-lbs), put the caliper back on and torque the mounting bolts to 80 ft-lbs. Leave the brake line braket off, cuz we're not done.
Next... the brake pads.
Last edited by chimchim; 01-21-2006 at 05:56 PM.
01-21-2006, 05:47 PM
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Now for the brake pads....
8) Remove the 12mm caliper bolt (lower one). There are two, to hold the caliper body to the caliper frame. Leave the upper one alone.
9) Now that the lower bolt is removed, you can flip the caliper body open, exposing the brake pads.
10) Pull out the old pads and retaining clips and clean them up. Discard the old pads. Put grease spots on the pads at the spots shown (yellow triangles) to prevent/reduce squeeling brakes. That is, we are greasing the BACK of the pad, NOT the part that contacts the surface of the rotor.
Note the triangle pointing to the piston edge. We will be greasing this spot, but not yet.
11) Insert the retaining clips and the new pads.
8) Remove the 12mm caliper bolt (lower one). There are two, to hold the caliper body to the caliper frame. Leave the upper one alone.
9) Now that the lower bolt is removed, you can flip the caliper body open, exposing the brake pads.
10) Pull out the old pads and retaining clips and clean them up. Discard the old pads. Put grease spots on the pads at the spots shown (yellow triangles) to prevent/reduce squeeling brakes. That is, we are greasing the BACK of the pad, NOT the part that contacts the surface of the rotor.
Note the triangle pointing to the piston edge. We will be greasing this spot, but not yet.
11) Insert the retaining clips and the new pads.
Last edited by chimchim; 01-21-2006 at 10:32 PM.
01-21-2006, 05:53 PM
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12) Because the old pads are most likely thinner than the new ones, the piston will probably need to be pressed inwards in order to widen the caliper enough to accomodate the new pads. I used a big C clamp to push it in maybe 3mm. After compressing, I greased up the ring edge of the piston.
I highlighted the piston cylinder.
(Looking back, I probably should have used a piece of wood between the clamp the piston for protection and more even compression).
13) Flip the caliper back down, replace and tighten the 12mm caliper bolt. Replace the wheel and pump the brakes to rebuild the pressure. Follow proper brake in procedure (not part of this DIY).
I covered my brake fluid resevoir with a rag, but with the small movement of the piston, no fluid leaked out.
Let me know if you like this DIY and if it's useful.
I highlighted the piston cylinder.
(Looking back, I probably should have used a piece of wood between the clamp the piston for protection and more even compression).
13) Flip the caliper back down, replace and tighten the 12mm caliper bolt. Replace the wheel and pump the brakes to rebuild the pressure. Follow proper brake in procedure (not part of this DIY).
I covered my brake fluid resevoir with a rag, but with the small movement of the piston, no fluid leaked out.
Let me know if you like this DIY and if it's useful.
01-21-2006, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by OblivionLord
Why did you replace your rotor?
Are you going to continue this DIY with the drum brakes?
Are you going to continue this DIY with the drum brakes?
Sorry, won't be doing the rear drums.
I've been running Axxis/PBR Metal Master's on Brembo blanks in the front. Lot's of stop, even at street temps. However, they were really harsh on the rotors, chattered, and I had to keep rebedding to get them more even. Most of all, the extra stop in the front imbalanced the braking system. I considered disc swapping the rear, but I gave up on that one for resale reasons. So with an imbalanced brake system, I don't think I had a much better braking distance. So I went back to near OE. I wanted the experience too.
I put on Akebono proAct pads.
01-21-2006, 10:25 PM
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good write up chimchim.. so instead of bleeding the brakes from the brake line.. u just left the brake reservoir open and cover with a rag while stepping on the brakes?
i'd be interested to see the drum brake DIY.
i'd be interested to see the drum brake DIY.
01-22-2006, 10:04 PM
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Actually, I wasn't sure what was going to happen with brake fluid resevoir. So I undid the "child safety" cap, but left it on, which (I don't think) didn't break the seal. I was afraid of unnecessary moisture exposure. However, I also didn't want exploding brake fluid, so that's why the rag was around it. My take is that for the small piston movement I compressed, it did not overflow the resevoir. So it turns out the rag was just a precaution.
Also, I only needed 1 or 2 pumps to get the pressure back, and I had no spongyness so I'm guessing I never introduced bubbles which would require bleeding of the brakes. So, I never bled the brakes. I've driving it around a bit braking it in and taking it easy and all seems well. In a couple days I'll try using the brakes hard to see.
My lesson learned: BRAKE BALANCE IS EVERYTHING!! (ie, you really need to upgrade all four brakes the same amount to maintain the designed in; unless you really know what you're doing and taking measurements.) This means that if you still have rear drums, you're screwed. Good luck finding matched drum shoe upgrades. Disc swap is the only way, otherwise, leave the setup stock.
I thought the "slight upgrade" in just pads at the front wouldn't be bad since I also got stiffer springs. But since I had no real specs, I ended up with too much clamp force at the front. I theorize this exposed a worn bushing and corner weight imbalance inherent to my current setup (I don't have coil overs). This was overloading the right front tire too quickly and I got bad camber/toe-like wear; even though I have in-spec static alignment. Plus, the rear drums were hardly wearing AT ALL (assuming because they were doing very little work).
Also, I only needed 1 or 2 pumps to get the pressure back, and I had no spongyness so I'm guessing I never introduced bubbles which would require bleeding of the brakes. So, I never bled the brakes. I've driving it around a bit braking it in and taking it easy and all seems well. In a couple days I'll try using the brakes hard to see.
My lesson learned: BRAKE BALANCE IS EVERYTHING!! (ie, you really need to upgrade all four brakes the same amount to maintain the designed in; unless you really know what you're doing and taking measurements.) This means that if you still have rear drums, you're screwed. Good luck finding matched drum shoe upgrades. Disc swap is the only way, otherwise, leave the setup stock.
I thought the "slight upgrade" in just pads at the front wouldn't be bad since I also got stiffer springs. But since I had no real specs, I ended up with too much clamp force at the front. I theorize this exposed a worn bushing and corner weight imbalance inherent to my current setup (I don't have coil overs). This was overloading the right front tire too quickly and I got bad camber/toe-like wear; even though I have in-spec static alignment. Plus, the rear drums were hardly wearing AT ALL (assuming because they were doing very little work).
Last edited by chimchim; 01-22-2006 at 10:13 PM.
