Civic Flywheel/Clutch Install (58 pics)
#133
I used this yesterday to replace my clutch. It went relatively smoothly in about 9.5 hours in constant drizzle on a '92 Civic. I have to say, it's probably the best set of instructions for a repair of this sort of magnitude that I've ever read and used. Outstanding! I joined this site specifically to thank you and also to provide a bit of feedback.
May I offer a couple of notes about the write-up:
Personal notes:
My parts from RockAuto.com:
May I offer a couple of notes about the write-up:
- The shifter pin removal was complicated, for me, by the blurriness of the pictures and the similarity between the end of each of the shifter rods. May I offer the following removal advice:
- Push forward (toward the transmission) the rubber accordian cover that extends rearward from the transmission.
- Remove the 8mm wide C-clip that surrounds and protects the pin.
- Apply some penetrating oil to the pin
- Use an oversized punch to punch the pin upward until it is flush with the shaft (about 1 mm)
- Use the 5/16 punch to knock the pin upwards through the shift rod.
- During reassembly, liberally grease this pin prior to installation.
- I stood a 4x4 and a couple of shims under the motor to hold it up. Without this, on my Gen 5, the whole motor/trans was resting on the upper left motor mount and sags sadly down.
- I removed the transmission from the car completely. There wasn't any place to "rest" it on mine and it dropped down and slid out from under the car really easily. That meant that I could easily get my enormous electric impact wrench in to undo the pressure plate and flywheel bolts.
- When installing the transmission, if you can push the locating dowel to touch the motor, the splines are engaged. If you are hung up before that, then they are not properly engaged.
- To fill the transmission, I removed the vent cap and attached a hose to the vent tube. The front was raised at the time. After 2 quarts, no overflow was coming out of the overflow hole, so I just closed it up. I'd say about 1.5 quarts came out. I probably overfilled it, but while driving, it seems just fine. I'll live with the extra friction.
Personal notes:
- I spent about 45 minutes attempting to remove a "pin" from the u-joint that was actually a rivet I suspect. Fortunately for me, it didn't budge and I didn't really have enough space to whack it too hard. With the above addition (or maybe some clearer pictures), It would've taken me two minutes. My pin popped right out in about five hits with my 10 lb sledge once I started on it.
- On my trans, the speed sensor has two mounting bolts. One of them snapped on me. Grrrr! Right before I went to take it off, I thought .. Do I really need to do this .. everything else has worked, what it this goes wrong .. and sure enough ..
- I had spontaneous ball-joint separation without the need for a separator. First time ever. I wasn't sure whether I should be a bit worried or thankful. I stuck with thankful.
My parts from RockAuto.com:
- Clutch Kit: RHINOPAC Part # 08022 (includes clutch, pressure plate, flywheel bearing, mounting tool and shift rod bearing
- Flywheel: SACHS Part # NFW3611
Last edited by ala_frosty; 08-08-2010 at 09:40 AM.
#134
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Fresno, Ca
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thanks/ check engine
I have a 1992 acura integra ls, this post was a great help for my novice skills. i replaced the clutch, cv axles and motor mounts in one operation it was great. i have one question. my check enigine light is now on and evory thing looks to be in place any suggestions?
Last edited by shawn7874; 08-22-2010 at 12:13 PM.
#136
Damn good guide, I followed it (minus the new flywheel) and everything went fine, took my about 2 days in total but well worth it once its done. Anyone wanting to do it, and who have the patience to do it should check this guide anyday. cheers man.
#138
Well I fired her up and the noise I thought was the throw out bearing isn't, so I'm guessing it's the input shaft bearing. When the clutch is pressed it stops, as soon as I release the clutch it comes back. Eff me, that means the whole tranny needs to come out again!
#139
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when you say check bolt i take it you are referring you the filler bolt you remove to check the level of the tranny. because you should feel fluid on the bottom tip of your finger when you reach in the filler bolt free online movies.
you can't check the fluid of the tranny from the drain bolt (the one you put the rachet directly on) since the fluid drains from the drain bolt.
so now i've heard of people removing the filler bolt, AND the speed sensor to fill the tranny fluid through the speed sensor and let it pour out of the filler bolt. that makes absolutely no sense to me.
i mean seriously. i've used a funnel with a tube for years. not issues at all.
frankly i've seen 2 speed sensors break when removed.
i advice you use the filler bolt to fill the tranny.
also have the car level will filling the tranny, if the front's jacked up, fluid comes out of the tranny before it's actually full.
it's also not a bad idea to replace the washer on the drain bolt when you do it.
you can't check the fluid of the tranny from the drain bolt (the one you put the rachet directly on) since the fluid drains from the drain bolt.
so now i've heard of people removing the filler bolt, AND the speed sensor to fill the tranny fluid through the speed sensor and let it pour out of the filler bolt. that makes absolutely no sense to me.
i mean seriously. i've used a funnel with a tube for years. not issues at all.
frankly i've seen 2 speed sensors break when removed.
i advice you use the filler bolt to fill the tranny.
also have the car level will filling the tranny, if the front's jacked up, fluid comes out of the tranny before it's actually full.
it's also not a bad idea to replace the washer on the drain bolt when you do it.
Hi guys, Im a newbie. Nice to join this forum.
Last edited by patrick198; 01-23-2011 at 06:50 PM.
#140
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im going to tackle this soon . ordered my clutch i also need to replace both axles joints are clicking(for the second time) i also didnt order a new flywheel which i think i should have. ive done the head gasket and other misc things. just did a clutch on a miata yesterday and it only took about 5 hours. thanks for the post i will follow it : )