How to clean your plastic
 

After shot of my tail

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

got rid of those letters that hold wax

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

before and after of my turn signals

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

before and after of my headlights

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

if you guys are interested in a write up let me know =)

Arlight guys.... sorry for the delay. Sleep > me.

Anyhoo heres the products you need

You Basically need two or three differnt grade compounds. I Borrowed a super duty compound, a 3m perfect-it 3000 (medium grade) and then a polish (metal polish).

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

next you need something to apply the compounds with. I used a makita variable speed (on the lowest speed) buffer with these pads.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

super duty = white pad, the most coarse
Medium duty = black pad
polish = blue pad

next you need something to sand your plastic with.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg
I chose to use 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper because i never did anything like this before and didnt really want to use to heavy sandpaper and mess something up. obviously you start with the 2000 then finish off with the 3000. The way i use the sandpaper is go one way like this ( / ) , then go like this ( \ ) so you get a nice even distributed cut like so http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg And when you are wetsanding, make sure to dip your paper constantly into a water bucket. If you get a piece of dirt under your paper it will dig right into the plastic, and you cannot get the scratched out, so make sure you dip constantly( every 15 seconds or so). make sure your taillights are clean before sanding also. And where I removed the letters, just concentrate on that area a little more, and they will eventually come out.

after sanding, you want to dry off your plastic with a cloth to remove all water. Next you want to apply your compound evenly over the piece like so http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Next step is to use the super duty with the white pad and buff the plastic. you basically do it until the compound is gone ( like removing wax when waxing a car)

then you use the next two compounds and you are done.


Note. I tried for shits to use just the black pad and mothers "aluminum mag polish" and buffed it with just the one pad, and it looked as good as the others.


next step, look for other stuff to buff :P
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/we...ZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Very nice write up, this would be the same process that I would suggest. You could possibly go with a lower grit sandpaper like 1200-1500 or so if your lights really need some work and are heavily scratched / pitted.

Also, prior to wetsanding, ideally you want to soak the sandpaper in water over night. You can also use drops of automotive shampoo to increase lubrication between the sand paper and your tail lights. Keeping a spray bottle of water near by is also very helpful, that way you don't have to keep dipping the sandpaper in water.

Once again excellent write-up!

George @ Detailed Image

It this also how you can get rid of those "sun burn" spots on front head lights? Or is there a different way to do it?

By "sun burn" do you mean yellow oxidation?

No...its like water that has been hazed/baked on the lens. I will try to get a pic tonight.

Thanks Skelly, I did this to my teg yesterday and it came out beautiful. :yay:

I got lots of compliments already from people asking if I bought new headlights,corners,tails. :D

I only have one thing to add, SOME people may have trouble after doing this during inspection. Should it cause a problem, no. But if the inspector want's to be an ass he'll say there is no DOT markings.

Looks awesome though!!