Start, run, die randomly, plz help
Okay so for those of you who have helped me before you know all this... but to recap...
D16a6 swap for D16a... Same tranny, distributor, intake manifold, throttlebody, exhaust, fuel rail, crank pulley, ect. Only the oilpan, block, and head of D16a.
New... Gaskets, hoses, fluids, thermo sensors, thermostat, o2 sensor, h20 pump, timing belt, oil pump, filters, spark plugs and spark wires
Got it running then all of a sudden the car wouldn't start 17 miles later.
After trying like all hell to get it started I killed the battery.
So I installed a new one. I also installed used fuel injectors with a few less miles on em, and replaced my coil and main relay.
I started it up this afternoon after extending the wires inside the 'tube' that goes onto the plugs... fired right up, idled then 2 minutes later stalled and wouldn't start.
No codes no warning lights.
When I try to start it the oil light goes out but the electrical warning flashes with the turning, the engine just won't fire, turn but no fire.
Pulled and reinstalled the hazard fuse, battery and coil, checked the plugs and wires, cap and rotor, then tried to start it. Boom perfect start. Idled for a few minutes then drove around maybe a mile in 2nd and 3rd goin 30 ish. Slowed for a turn, downshift to second (goin maybe 20 at the time) slow and turn, step slightly on gas and boom dead... won't turn for a few seconds then returns to lifeless chugging as it turns but doesn't fire... WTF!!!
I figure I have a bad ground somewhere, screwing up the coil and causing it to fail... any other ideas or possible solutions ANyone I beg you, I'm going nuts... At this point my only idea is to take it to honda service and pay out a wad.
D16a6 swap for D16a... Same tranny, distributor, intake manifold, throttlebody, exhaust, fuel rail, crank pulley, ect. Only the oilpan, block, and head of D16a.
New... Gaskets, hoses, fluids, thermo sensors, thermostat, o2 sensor, h20 pump, timing belt, oil pump, filters, spark plugs and spark wires
Got it running then all of a sudden the car wouldn't start 17 miles later.
After trying like all hell to get it started I killed the battery.
So I installed a new one. I also installed used fuel injectors with a few less miles on em, and replaced my coil and main relay.
I started it up this afternoon after extending the wires inside the 'tube' that goes onto the plugs... fired right up, idled then 2 minutes later stalled and wouldn't start.
No codes no warning lights.
When I try to start it the oil light goes out but the electrical warning flashes with the turning, the engine just won't fire, turn but no fire.
Pulled and reinstalled the hazard fuse, battery and coil, checked the plugs and wires, cap and rotor, then tried to start it. Boom perfect start. Idled for a few minutes then drove around maybe a mile in 2nd and 3rd goin 30 ish. Slowed for a turn, downshift to second (goin maybe 20 at the time) slow and turn, step slightly on gas and boom dead... won't turn for a few seconds then returns to lifeless chugging as it turns but doesn't fire... WTF!!!
I figure I have a bad ground somewhere, screwing up the coil and causing it to fail... any other ideas or possible solutions ANyone I beg you, I'm going nuts... At this point my only idea is to take it to honda service and pay out a wad.
Last edited by theleprechaun; Feb 15, 2007 at 06:08 PM.
Your battery cables may be corroded inside.
A few months ago I was having running problems and some funky electrical stuff going on, new negative cable.
Last week I has no start problems, new positive cable. For the positive cable I would drive it fine for a awhile, then nothing. I just happened to move the cable alittle and everything was fine, so I knew it was corroded on the inside. All week with the new cable, everythings good.
A few months ago I was having running problems and some funky electrical stuff going on, new negative cable.
Last week I has no start problems, new positive cable. For the positive cable I would drive it fine for a awhile, then nothing. I just happened to move the cable alittle and everything was fine, so I knew it was corroded on the inside. All week with the new cable, everythings good.
I bought the negative wire today and it didn't help so I'll try the positive one tomorrow. Thx (31.99 Honda Parts store)
Last edited by theleprechaun; Feb 16, 2007 at 08:41 PM.
Okay yea I had corroded wire from the battery to the starter, it had enough power to crank but the starter wasn't relaying enough to spark correctly... but It works, however I hear an air hiss form the back top side of the intake... any ideas on that one?
No It's stamped D16a, JDM engine, I assume a D16A1 but it doesn't have anything after the 'A'. I've been told its 99% the same as a D16A6 but has 9:4:1 instead of 9:1:1 for compression
Last edited by theleprechaun; Feb 18, 2007 at 12:14 PM. Reason: 99% the same as d16a6 (d16a1)
the hissing is either a hose that is left off, or you left some old gasket on there and there is a vacuum leak. Take some brake clean or carb clean and spray it on the area, if the idle raise up you have a vac leak.
I wouldn't know about the gasket, I had the Longblock pre-readied when it was shipped so unless its the intake (made that soooo clean) However I'll try that and see if I can locate it, thx.
Last edited by theleprechaun; Feb 18, 2007 at 02:53 PM.
so it wont run for longer than a few min or miles. ummmm
make sure there is the screw holding the rotor on the distributer and make sure its not loose. first,, are you getting spark while cranking, fuel pump prime when u turn on the key, and then good compression. check those thing then get back.
make sure there is the screw holding the rotor on the distributer and make sure its not loose. first,, are you getting spark while cranking, fuel pump prime when u turn on the key, and then good compression. check those thing then get back.
wait! do you have a injector resistor box, if not hold on. do you have a volt ohm meter. if so test the ohms of your injectors, they should be like 2.2 or 3 ohms if not get some that are. and if you dont have a resistor they should be around 12-13 ohms without a resistor box. and its on the driverside strut tower. aluminum thing with grn plug and fins on it...
if you have high ohms with resis box it will over work the ecu and like wise with out..
if you have high ohms with resis box it will over work the ecu and like wise with out..


