got a b16a2 out ov a h rg civic, putin it in a 1.5 lsi cupe but i have a small prob! i put the main end crank caps in a bag marked wich one went where but i used pen and paper, when i opened the bags month or so later i couln't read what was what so i dont no where the go. said in the book that the r all marked with numbers on the caps and corospondes with numbers on the crenk when u turn it. would b very appre if someone is ripping that block appart 2 take some pics ov the bottom end + crank and send them 2 me, if not any info would b grate.
Wchilds@tesco.net

also the loom from the old civic and the new one r a bit can someone help from prevoice experonce

help help help he he lol

Wchilds@tesco.net

 

come on just put them on any way it will b ok i think!
why dont u go 2 a sparky 2 do the loom's u cheep skate lol

 

they are supposed to go one way and one way only or u run the risk of crank flex. the caps are numbered and go according to cylinder position example" cap one goes over the crank about where cylinder one is. another thing is when tightining the caps u start in the middle and work ur way out

 

there are half numbers where the "caps" meet the upper "cap" the numbers i believe go on the back most side of the engine. look at the numbers...should be one through four. good luck

 

I've made that mistake before... it's just like doing a tune up, and mistakenly pulling all the wires at once instead of doing them one at a time. You're like :doh:

In the machining process of most engines, the caps are cut from the cast, bolted on to the block, and bored out afterwards. The sides of these parts usually have some tool marks from the milling process. It's harder to see them with the crank and rods in place... See if you can line any of those up.

It works on a DSM, anyway... and I think my ol' D series had the milling marks on the sides of the caps, too... but I had all of those lined up in a magnetic pan when I rebuilt my last 4 motors, and wasn't really looking closely at them.

I'm sure others would be curious to know if there are any distinguishing marks of any kind as the plastic baggie method is the most common one used, and doesn't work when it comes to main and rod caps. Those should always be bolted right back on to the engine in-order after removing each rod, or the crank and bearings.

 

I usually number them or punch little indents in them. Makes life easier. I hope I never run into that problem. h:

 

Yep. I scratch each one with an awl now in a different spot on each cap so I can't get it wrong.