Sub Qs - did search, no answers
10-01-2003, 09:42 PM
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Sub Qs - did search, no answers
- What difference does size make when buying subs? 10" compared to 12" etc? (considering its same make/RMS/watts)
- Why the amp and the speakers have to be almost similar or equal watts / rms? Why can't you have a 500RMS amp connected to 150RMS speakers, if you just lower the power of amp?
- What does - bottom out - means?
- Why the amp and the speakers have to be almost similar or equal watts / rms? Why can't you have a 500RMS amp connected to 150RMS speakers, if you just lower the power of amp?
- What does - bottom out - means?
10-02-2003, 09:07 AM
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a 12" sub is going to move more air than a 10" sub, due to more cone area. The motor structure is most likely the same in both (voice coil, magnet) if they are the same brand and line.
You can connect an amp with a higher output than the speakers RMS rating, just be careful with the volume and gain controls... Overpowering a speaker wont nessecarily hurt it, as long as you keep it within reason.
When a speaker bottoms out, the end of the voice coil actually hits the back of the magnet... not good for the speaker... most subwoofers available today have a "bumped back plate" which is essentially what it says... the backing plate on the magnet is bumped out where the voice coil is, making for a longer path for the coil to travel.
You can connect an amp with a higher output than the speakers RMS rating, just be careful with the volume and gain controls... Overpowering a speaker wont nessecarily hurt it, as long as you keep it within reason.
When a speaker bottoms out, the end of the voice coil actually hits the back of the magnet... not good for the speaker... most subwoofers available today have a "bumped back plate" which is essentially what it says... the backing plate on the magnet is bumped out where the voice coil is, making for a longer path for the coil to travel.
10-13-2003, 03:58 PM
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not really. with the right box, the 12 can sound just as tight, and yet be louder than the 10. the actualy sub is only 1/3 of the equation. you have to remember the box and the amp.
10-13-2003, 05:32 PM
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The 500 watt will give you more room to upgrade in the future if you go to subs that are more power hungry youll also have more power when the bass hits. Better to bearly run a higher power amp than run a smaller amp right to the limit. Another thing isYou don't actaully lower the power of the amp. Youll still have 500 watts on tap but if you turn the gains down you will make it so the deck cannot push the amp to the full 500 watts. However even on its lowest setting it may still be putting out 250 watts so youll still have to be careful. This Depends on the output voltage of the deck and how sensitive the amp is.
If i were choosing a size i would look at what the box requirments are and how much space you want to give up. 12's typically need a larger box than 10. You might be able to fit two 10's but two 12's will take up too much space for example. 10's can play low given the proper set up. I heard a pair of 10's hit 16hz.. well not really hear but feel. My 12 won't go that low but the box is a bit small for it. Don't be fooled 10's can go low but that depends on a lot of things such as the sub used, power, box, eq, car ect.
If i were choosing a size i would look at what the box requirments are and how much space you want to give up. 12's typically need a larger box than 10. You might be able to fit two 10's but two 12's will take up too much space for example. 10's can play low given the proper set up. I heard a pair of 10's hit 16hz.. well not really hear but feel. My 12 won't go that low but the box is a bit small for it. Don't be fooled 10's can go low but that depends on a lot of things such as the sub used, power, box, eq, car ect.
10-13-2003, 11:13 PM
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Originally posted by XSrcing
not really. with the right box, the 12 can sound just as tight, and yet be louder than the 10. the actualy sub is only 1/3 of the equation. you have to remember the box and the amp.
not really. with the right box, the 12 can sound just as tight, and yet be louder than the 10. the actualy sub is only 1/3 of the equation. you have to remember the box and the amp.
10-13-2003, 11:18 PM
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Weak amp + strong speaker = lacking sound
Powerful amp + weak speaker = comparibly cheap sound and risking a blowout or something
Weak amp + weak speaker = good setup, weak performer but compatible
Powerful amp + powerful speaker = loud clear sound, compatible, and a performer too
Larger subs move more air and have a heavier cone, therefore moving slower and covering lower frequencies that a smaller sub wouldn't probably put out. You'll get shakier, more defined bass with a larger speaker than a smaller. But you don't need to go all out on it. Keep in mind the size of your car and what you need. After all, there isn't that much air in a small car.
Powerful amp + weak speaker = comparibly cheap sound and risking a blowout or something
Weak amp + weak speaker = good setup, weak performer but compatible
Powerful amp + powerful speaker = loud clear sound, compatible, and a performer too
Larger subs move more air and have a heavier cone, therefore moving slower and covering lower frequencies that a smaller sub wouldn't probably put out. You'll get shakier, more defined bass with a larger speaker than a smaller. But you don't need to go all out on it. Keep in mind the size of your car and what you need. After all, there isn't that much air in a small car.