installing audio in 2007 accord- HELp guys!
12-09-2009, 12:24 PM
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installing audio in 2007 accord- HELp guys!
I have some db651 polk 6 1/2" speakers and an amp & 8" sealed sub box- hope it's enough bass but I don't want to rock the block.
1. Any ideas where to mount the amp? Dimensions: 9”W x 2 3/4”H x 14 ¾” D
I dislike the idea of under the drivers seat as i have tall people in my car. It's a tough fit under the passenger seat but may work as I have a babyseat there in the back. I also saw a cool idea of behind the rear tail lights in the trunk mounted on fiberboard then fiberboard mounted on the back. I throw a bike back there every so often and need to fold down the rear seats occasionally.
2. The front door speakers I hear are nightmares and that these brackets may work. I plan to use a dremel to open the door speaker port. This a good idea? Anyone been there? How on earth will I get speaker wire into that door, I pulled the drivers side out on my friends car and that looked easy- removing glove box and the port tube is there.
3. for feedback, I plan to tap a line converter to the front speakers and keep power going to them as the tweets run off the front speaker wiring I hear. I assume they share the power outage. Since the radio is 120Wx6, and they both share the same power, can i assume it's 40Wx2 for the fronts? I was thinking, can I do away with that whole wire and feed my subs that 40W?
4. This sounds crazy, but can u link the factory HU wire to the speaker wire and combine the power or will the it be too different since they're different power units?
thanks, sorry for the length and detail but wanted to share my thoughts thoroughly. I'm mechanically inclined but still learning audio. I have done a fair amt of research.
1. Any ideas where to mount the amp? Dimensions: 9”W x 2 3/4”H x 14 ¾” D
I dislike the idea of under the drivers seat as i have tall people in my car. It's a tough fit under the passenger seat but may work as I have a babyseat there in the back. I also saw a cool idea of behind the rear tail lights in the trunk mounted on fiberboard then fiberboard mounted on the back. I throw a bike back there every so often and need to fold down the rear seats occasionally.
2. The front door speakers I hear are nightmares and that these brackets may work. I plan to use a dremel to open the door speaker port. This a good idea? Anyone been there? How on earth will I get speaker wire into that door, I pulled the drivers side out on my friends car and that looked easy- removing glove box and the port tube is there.
3. for feedback, I plan to tap a line converter to the front speakers and keep power going to them as the tweets run off the front speaker wiring I hear. I assume they share the power outage. Since the radio is 120Wx6, and they both share the same power, can i assume it's 40Wx2 for the fronts? I was thinking, can I do away with that whole wire and feed my subs that 40W?
4. This sounds crazy, but can u link the factory HU wire to the speaker wire and combine the power or will the it be too different since they're different power units?
thanks, sorry for the length and detail but wanted to share my thoughts thoroughly. I'm mechanically inclined but still learning audio. I have done a fair amt of research.
Last edited by ricardo95; 12-09-2009 at 12:40 PM.
12-09-2009, 01:02 PM
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oh, pushing 75Wx4 on amp. two channels to the fronts (overpowering by like 20W) and bridged to 180W to the sub. I wish I could get the 10" JBL (very efficient ) but that's rated 350W. I doubt 255W would do it justice. Another option on 10" would be JL AUdio 10W1 series.
12-09-2009, 03:54 PM
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1. I had my amp in my old integra mounted under the passenger seat...I still like that idea.
2. Run the wires in the same place the factory harness wires go through. There should be a rubber tubing with these wires for the oem speakers, locks, windows, etc. Just use that.
3/4. I'm confused with what your goal is. Your Polk 6.5's are coax's, that have a tweeter in the middle. Are you also going to be keeping your OEM tweeters on the top of the door panel? (I assume your Accord has them there). If this is the goal, leave the 6.5's running off the amp, but have the OEM wire still going to the tweeters at the top of the door. Don't do what Marshy did and link the OEM speaker wires to the ones coming from your amp.
2. Run the wires in the same place the factory harness wires go through. There should be a rubber tubing with these wires for the oem speakers, locks, windows, etc. Just use that.
3/4. I'm confused with what your goal is. Your Polk 6.5's are coax's, that have a tweeter in the middle. Are you also going to be keeping your OEM tweeters on the top of the door panel? (I assume your Accord has them there). If this is the goal, leave the 6.5's running off the amp, but have the OEM wire still going to the tweeters at the top of the door. Don't do what Marshy did and link the OEM speaker wires to the ones coming from your amp.
12-09-2009, 06:13 PM
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thanks dubcac. I'm laughing right now because I saw that post. I was thinking the same thing and said to myself I've gotta be an idiot to do that.
Thanks, I'll take teh panels out soon and see if I can wiggle it in there. Worst case I'll drill a hole and run a grommet and plastic protective tubing to get the wire in. It was hell on my old acura CL- getting that wire through. oh, yes I'll leave the factory wire running to the tweets and rears.
any thoughts on the sub? I listen to a lot of live and orchestrated music- rock, percussion Latin, some hip hop, not much. I think the 8" JBL should suffice.
Thanks, I'll take teh panels out soon and see if I can wiggle it in there. Worst case I'll drill a hole and run a grommet and plastic protective tubing to get the wire in. It was hell on my old acura CL- getting that wire through. oh, yes I'll leave the factory wire running to the tweets and rears.
any thoughts on the sub? I listen to a lot of live and orchestrated music- rock, percussion Latin, some hip hop, not much. I think the 8" JBL should suffice.