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Can someone help me map out the wiring for my system

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Can someone help me map out the wiring for my system

Old 09-08-2002, 05:07 PM
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plkalra
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Default Can someone help me map out the wiring for my system

Hello
My question is somewhat long. I have my whole system now, but I don't know what wiring to use. I mean I'm gonna buy stinger, but where do I run what.
Here's the setup

HU--Panasonic CQ-DVR909u
45W x 4 + 5W Center Channel
Frequency Response (1dB) DVD-Audio (192kHz sampling): 2Hz - 88kHz, DVD-Video (96kHz sampling): 20Hz - 44kHz CD: 20Hz - 20kHz

Front Speakers--Alpine SPX-177A 6 Components
Ultra High Quality 2-Way Crossover
Frequency Response : 35Hz - 35 kHz
Impedance (Nominal) : 4 ohms
60 watts RMS, 240 watts Peak
Rear Speakers--Alpine SPS-1629S 6 Coaxial 2 Way Speakers
Frequency Response : 40Hz - 25kHz
Impedance (Nominal) : 4 ohms
Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 120W
Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 30W
Sub--Alpine SWR-1241D 12 Type R
Frequency Response : 28Hz - 1kHz
Free Air Resonance (Fs) : 29Hz
Impedance (Nominal) : 2 ohm + 2 ohm
Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 1000W
Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 300W
Amp that powers These 5 things--Alpine MRV-F450
MAX Power (at 14.4V,EIAJ)
Bridged 4 ohms : 240W x 2 + 370W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 90W x 4 + 370W x 1
RMS Power (at 12V,20Hz-200Hz)
Bridged 4 ohms : 80W x 2 + 150W x 1
Per channel into 2 ohms : 40W x 4 + 150W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 30W x 4 + 150W x 1
RMS Power (at 14.4V,20Hz-200Hz)
Bridged 4 ohms : 120W x 2 + 200W x 1
Per channel into 2 ohms : 60W x 4 + 200W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 50W x 4 + 200W x 1

Mini Subs under Seats--Alpine SWS-BE45 Bass Engine
Frequency Response : 20Hz-80Hz
Resonance Frequency 40Hz
Force 15lbf(66N) at 50W
Power Range 25Watts-50Watts(RMS)
Amp that powers the mini subs--Alpine MRP-T406
Frequency Response : 10-50kHz
1 x 240 Watts Max
2 x 90 Watts Max
Built in X-Over


I'm also running one LCD screen but the HU has an input for it

questions...

1. What gauge power and ground should I run, 4?Speaker 12 or 14?

2. I have to run power and ground for both speakers right, what do I have to put at the battery then, a terminal, what is it called? do I need some type of fuse?

3. RCA's, I'm planning on the Hyper series from Stinger, they make a 4 channel type can i run that?...well knowing my one amp is 5 channel..and my other two..how many rca's do I need???

All in all I basically need helping with telling me where to run what wire, what size, battery terminals, distribution blocks, all that etc stuff...if someone can tell me what to run I can appreciate it. ..thanks soo much...
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Old 09-08-2002, 05:21 PM
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-4 gauge power and ground

-14 gauge speaker will all around will be find

-speakers dont have powre and grounds...they are just labeled + and -

the only thing that goes to the battery is the wire that powers the amp. yes you NEED a fuse near the battery, and maybe on your D-block if you like

-to determine the size of the fuse, take a look at all the amps that are going to that line. add up the size of the onboard fuse, and that should be near the battery, within 18"s

-3 sets of RCA for the amp

thats like a really basic overview
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Old 09-08-2002, 05:24 PM
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SumAccordGuy94
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for power wire, use 4 gauge from the battery to a distribution block close to the amps... run a short 4 gauge feed to the 5 channel amp... and a short 8 gauge lead to the small amp. As close as you can to the battery, you'll need a fuse... Stinger uses Maxi or ANL (wafer) fuses with those amps you'll probably want a 100 amp fuse, which means you need the ANL type and a holder. There are plenty of battery terminals available that will make connecting the 4g power wire to the battery easier. Check their website or ask your dealer for options.

Properly ground both amps to the same place using the same gauge wire as the power, and keep the grounds as short as possible.

For RCA's you can use one of the 4 channel cables, and one 2 channel cable... use the 4 channel for the front/rear speaker signals and the single cable for the sub input on the amp. Before the amps, you'll have to split the SUB signal with a "Y" connector, run one pair into the 5 channel sub input and the other pair into the small amp for your "front subs". Also, at this time, run a remote turn on wire from the deck to the amps...

For speaker wire, 14g or 16g is plenty... its a little hard to run 12g wire and keep things neat looking, plus its too bulky for under the carpet.

if you need anymore info, [email protected] is my addy...
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Old 09-08-2002, 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by SumAccordGuy94
Stinger uses Maxi or ANL (wafer) fuses with those amps you'll probably want a 100 amp fuse, which means you need the ANL type and a holder.
thats too big IMO....i doubt his alternator is more than 100amps.
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Old 09-08-2002, 07:06 PM
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all its doing is protecting the power wire... if a 4gauge cable grounds out, it'll blow a 100 amp fuse real quick. If you dont get sufficent power to the amps, they will be struggling to produce sound. Its better to allow the amps more power. In my brothers car, he had the older model 5 channel alpine amp, and we were running an 80 amp fuse, if we ran a 60 the amp would cut out all the time because it wasnt getting enough power.
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Old 09-08-2002, 07:25 PM
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Originally posted by SumAccordGuy94
all its doing is protecting the power wire... if a 4gauge cable grounds out, it'll blow a 100 amp fuse real quick. If you dont get sufficent power to the amps, they will be struggling to produce sound. Its better to allow the amps more power. In my brothers car, he had the older model 5 channel alpine amp, and we were running an 80 amp fuse, if we ran a 60 the amp would cut out all the time because it wasnt getting enough power.
i prefer to keep it safe and put the exact sum of all the onboard fuses. lets say a short got pass the big 100 amp fuse and reaches the amp....thats not good.
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Old 09-09-2002, 05:53 AM
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Originally posted by WiLL


i prefer to keep it safe and put the exact sum of all the onboard fuses. lets say a short got pass the big 100 amp fuse and reaches the amp....thats not good.
im with will, only need a main fuse rated for the total draw of the system. the smaller fuses at each amp arent needed unless the amps do not have internal fuses.

if the alternator is not rated to at least the system draw + about another 25 amps for the rest of the car it's time to upgrade it.
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