plkalra

Hello
My question is somewhat long. I have my whole system now, but I don't know what wiring to use. I mean I'm gonna buy stinger, but where do I run what.
Here's the setup

HU--Panasonic CQ-DVR909u
· 45W x 4 + 5W Center Channel
· Frequency Response (±1dB) DVD-Audio (192kHz sampling): 2Hz - 88kHz, DVD-Video (96kHz sampling): 20Hz - 44kHz CD: 20Hz - 20kHz

Front Speakers--Alpine SPX-177A 6 ½” Components
· Ultra High Quality 2-Way Crossover
· Frequency Response : 35Hz - 35 kHz
· Impedance (Nominal) : 4 ohms
· 60 watts RMS, 240 watts Peak
Rear Speakers--Alpine SPS-1629S 6 ½” Coaxial 2 Way Speakers
· Frequency Response : 40Hz - 25kHz
· Impedance (Nominal) : 4 ohms
· Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 120W
· Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 30W
Sub--Alpine SWR-1241D 12” Type R
· Frequency Response : 28Hz - 1kHz
· Free Air Resonance (Fs) : 29Hz
· Impedance (Nominal) : 2 ohm + 2 ohm
· Power Handling Capacity (Peak) : 1000W
· Power Handling Capacity (RMS) : 300W
Amp that powers These 5 things--Alpine MRV-F450
MAX Power (at 14.4V,EIAJ)
Bridged 4 ohms : 240W x 2 + 370W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 90W x 4 + 370W x 1
RMS Power (at 12V,20Hz-200Hz)
Bridged 4 ohms : 80W x 2 + 150W x 1
Per channel into 2 ohms : 40W x 4 + 150W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 30W x 4 + 150W x 1
RMS Power (at 14.4V,20Hz-200Hz)
Bridged 4 ohms : 120W x 2 + 200W x 1
Per channel into 2 ohms : 60W x 4 + 200W x 1
Per channel into 4 ohms : 50W x 4 + 200W x 1

Mini Subs under Seats--Alpine SWS-BE45 Bass Engine
· Frequency Response : 20Hz-80Hz
· Resonance Frequency 40Hz
· Force 15lbf(66N) at 50W
· Power Range 25Watts-50Watts(RMS)
Amp that powers the mini subs--Alpine MRP-T406
· Frequency Response : 10-50kHz
· 1 x 240 Watts Max
· 2 x 90 Watts Max
· Built in X-Over


I'm also running one LCD screen but the HU has an input for it

questions...

1. What gauge power and ground should I run, 4?Speaker 12 or 14?

2. I have to run power and ground for both speakers right, what do I have to put at the battery then, a terminal, what is it called? do I need some type of fuse?

3. RCA's, I'm planning on the Hyper series from Stinger, they make a 4 channel type can i run that?...well knowing my one amp is 5 channel..and my other two..how many rca's do I need???

All in all I basically need helping with telling me where to run what wire, what size, battery terminals, distribution blocks, all that etc stuff...if someone can tell me what to run I can appreciate it. ..thanks soo much...

b00gers

-4 gauge power and ground

-14 gauge speaker will all around will be find

-speakers dont have powre and grounds...they are just labeled + and -

the only thing that goes to the battery is the wire that powers the amp. yes you NEED a fuse near the battery, and maybe on your D-block if you like

-to determine the size of the fuse, take a look at all the amps that are going to that line. add up the size of the onboard fuse, and that should be near the battery, within 18"s

-3 sets of RCA for the amp

thats like a really basic overview

SumAccordGuy94

for power wire, use 4 gauge from the battery to a distribution block close to the amps... run a short 4 gauge feed to the 5 channel amp... and a short 8 gauge lead to the small amp. As close as you can to the battery, you'll need a fuse... Stinger uses Maxi or ANL (wafer) fuses with those amps you'll probably want a 100 amp fuse, which means you need the ANL type and a holder. There are plenty of battery terminals available that will make connecting the 4g power wire to the battery easier. Check their website or ask your dealer for options.

Properly ground both amps to the same place using the same gauge wire as the power, and keep the grounds as short as possible.

For RCA's you can use one of the 4 channel cables, and one 2 channel cable... use the 4 channel for the front/rear speaker signals and the single cable for the sub input on the amp. Before the amps, you'll have to split the SUB signal with a "Y" connector, run one pair into the 5 channel sub input and the other pair into the small amp for your "front subs". Also, at this time, run a remote turn on wire from the deck to the amps...

For speaker wire, 14g or 16g is plenty... its a little hard to run 12g wire and keep things neat looking, plus its too bulky for under the carpet.

if you need anymore info, sumkidwithacl@aol.com is my addy...

b00gers

thats too big IMO....i doubt his alternator is more than 100amps.

SumAccordGuy94

all its doing is protecting the power wire... if a 4gauge cable grounds out, it'll blow a 100 amp fuse real quick. If you dont get sufficent power to the amps, they will be struggling to produce sound. Its better to allow the amps more power. In my brothers car, he had the older model 5 channel alpine amp, and we were running an 80 amp fuse, if we ran a 60 the amp would cut out all the time because it wasnt getting enough power.

b00gers

i prefer to keep it safe and put the exact sum of all the onboard fuses. lets say a short got pass the big 100 amp fuse and reaches the amp....thats not good.

Bass Mechanic

im with will, only need a main fuse rated for the total draw of the system. the smaller fuses at each amp arent needed unless the amps do not have internal fuses.

if the alternator is not rated to at least the system draw + about another 25 amps for the rest of the car it's time to upgrade it.