unit received today, and i took it apart and found the problem...
i did warn you about factory speakers, and also it does it both on the
radio and CD. to prove this, i can send the burned up amplifier chip, that
both the radio and CD share. the output is very distorted. the amplifier
has been partially shorted on the 3rd and 4th channels, due to two of your
speakers being bad. never use factory speakers.
the reason that it still did it when you hooked up good speakers, is
because the damage was already done.
i fully test all of my units before they leave here, including cranking it
up pretty good to test for distortion. the other 17 customers that bought
at the same time as you did, are happy, but nobody used factory speakers.
i'll fix this one for free this time... but you cannot hook it back up,
until you get speakers. if it comes back for the same reason, it is a
chargeable repair. any unit that you hook up to those speakers, will do the
same thing.
i cannot refund your shipping amount, as it is obvious that it was not my
fault. however, i will offer to ship it back to you at my expense.
if this is not acceptable to you, i'll refund your bid amount to your
PayPal account.
let me know, and it can ship out tomorrow.
dave

Well, it cannot be the speakers. To check this i just put my factory deck back into the car, and the speakers, at full volume are working just fine. I also have taken a look at them and they have not blow or burnt out.

Remember there is also a problem with it reading CD's, it will not read them sometimes, and spit them back out. SO the sound issue was not the only issue with the deck (lazer might be off). This was occuring even after using a cd cleaner, so it's not just the static problem.

Also the static was coming from the unit ONLY when it was in CD mode. Not once did ANY static come from the unit when it was playing the radio. The audio in FM radio was not distorted in anyway. Also i would like to point out the wiring diagram you sent was wrong also, and the collor tabs on the LX10 connector didn't match up with the right color wires (white tab on green wires, purple tab on grey, grey tab on purple, and green tab on white). It wouldn't do much, but if used that way would switch the front speakers with the back speakers. I went on the JVC site to double check, and the diagram you have was deff wrong. It wouldn't have done much, but i was glad to catch it.

Also static was coming from all speakers. I checked using the L/R/F/B faders, and found it to be a problem with all of the channels. I also found out the speakers in my car are factory pioneers, and my friend at best buy assured me he had put many decks into my cars, and it something was wrong with the deck, it was not my fault.

I'm gona think about it a little before bed, and call my friend, i'll let you know my decision tonight.

thanks for the help.

ok, i assure you that it was doing it during CD and radio... i heard it
with my own ears. i have no reason to lie to you. i have the amplifier
chip right in front of me, and can send it to you, and you can in turn send
it to Hitachi ( the manufacture of the chip ) for them to evaluate it for
you... they have the exact same $7000 test rig that i have. i replaced the
chip with a new one, and all is well, and cranks up pretty good. but
Hitachi is going to tell you exactly what i said. 2 channels have been
shorted... yes, this can have an effect on all 4 channels, like you
experienced.
now, let me explain how speakers work. factory speakers in cars normally
can only handle abut 8 watts, and if a car has a premium upgrade from the
dealer, they typically handle about 15-18 watts. this is measured in RMS
watts, or, an average wattage. the JVC unit puts out 22 watts RMS, 45 watts
peak. as you can tell, thats way too much for factory speakers.
the voice coil of the speaker is basically a solenoid. when power is put
to it, it creates a magnetic field, that opposes the magnet of the speaker.
that creates the movement of the speaker. what happens as a result of the
movement, is the impedance of the coil also changes. it can range from 6
ohms to 2 ohms for a 4 ohm speaker when within it's proper wattage range.
for an example of this, put an ohm meter to speaker leads, and push the
speaker cone, and watch the ohms change.
when you put more watts than the speaker is designed to handle, the
speaker can over extend, or bottom out. thats when a speaker can be in the
10 ohm, to 1/2 ohm range. the 1/2 ohm is what damages the amplifier chip.
as you mentioned, you have the Pioneer speakers, that a lot of dealers
use. they actually only handle about 17 watts RMS. the aftermarket
Pioneers handle a lot more.
anyway, i think it would be best to refund your money to your PayPal
account. yes, i'll refund the full amount. it's worth it to not have to
worry about factory speakers. the cold problem with the CD, is probably a
problem with the laser, like you suggest, but i would never know it, as it
does not get that cold here.
by the way... a Best Buy employee is not the best person to ask... they
know nothing about electronics. the salesmen just sell them, the installers
just install them, and the customer service desk refunds the money when
people use factory speakers and damage the unit... how do i know this for
fact ? because im the guy that buys all the damaged units from Best Buy...
about 40 % of my pallets of stereos are from Best Buy, and i am actually
thankful that they would recommend use with factory speakers. more units
for me.
anyway, let me know if a refund is acceptable, and i'll send it over.
dave