Help me out
 

since you guys were very helpful to me, i've had some more questions to ask in order to accomplish my audio setup. I've had one 10" sub, a 2 channel amp and a deck, and soon after i get my speakers this week, i am planning on adding one more amp(either 2 channel or a mono) and another 10". My question is
1. should i get a mono or another 2 channel?
2. can i use a mono to power 2 subs?
3. what are the pros/cons of powering subs by a mono
I heard that most mono's come with bass booster for extra bass, so this might be a goodie. as you might wonder why i wanna get a mono, cuz
1. it's cheaper than 2 channel
2. i've already had a 2 channel amp, so a mono can be a replacement of the 2 cha for the subs, if possible

so what are ur opinions?

Re: Help me out
 

1.)You can go either way, a 2ch would be more flexible.
2.)yes. I have a JBL Monoblock Powervalve amp pushing 2 Vega HED 12's.
3.) I can't think of a con to powering a sub w/a mono amp. It is a dedicated bass amp. Most good amps come with a bass boost, whether its mono or not. If it has a low pass filter, most of them have a selectable bass boost switch. On my JBL, its a variable contol, I love it.
The deciding factor is gonna be ohm load capability, rms power, and how much money you have to spend. Respond with the ohms of your subs, ohm load capability of the amp(s) you're thinking about getting as well as their rms and the subs power ratings too, rms and max. Also note it they are SVC or DVC, this makes all the difference in the world.

You're adding another sub, so you'll need more power. A bigger mono amp should give you more power as long as it matches up with you voice coil configuration. The 2 channel amp can be used to power your speakers now.

Re: Re: Help me out
 

ugh god that's one of my pet peeves. it's called impedance. an ohm is a unit of measure of electrical resistance.

impedance: the apparent opposition in an electrical circuit to the flow of an alternating current that is analogous to the actual electrical resistance to a direct current and that is the ratio of effective electromotive force to the effective current

ohm: the practical meter-kilogram-second unit of electric resistance equal to the resistance of a circuit in which a potential difference of one volt produces a current of one ampere

in laymans terms impedance is the resistance generated in an alternating current circuit by either a capacitive or inductive load, capacitive being a capacitor of some sort, inductive being a coil of some sort.

both capacitive and inductive impedance values vary with frequency. this is how we make crossovers, but i won't get into that.

Re: Re: Re: Help me out
 

Also in laymans terms, when you see an amp the description reads something like this:
2x150 Watts RMS @ 2 Ohms
520 Watts MAX Bridged
Full MOSFET Oiwer Supply
PWM Circuitry
2 Ohms Stable
Tri-Mode Capable
Full Selectable Crossover (HI/FULL/LO)
Variable HI/LO PASS
Bass Boost

You and I know that the "ohm rating" of this amp is the impedance, but not everyone can/will make that connection. Thanks for the overblown explanation on what I already knew:fawk:

Re: Re: Re: Re: Help me out
 

:rolleyes:the overblown explanation was for those that don't already know. you trying to dumb it down for them and using the incorrect terminology instead of explaining what these terms mean leads to newbs throwing around incorrect terms and confusing themselves and everyone else. so:fawk: u too

guys.....i am just a newbie. i know **** about ohm and term like impendence...so :D please use words at elemantry level. ok to keep things simple, please tell me which amp is the best for my system based on their specs i will be providing. the sales told me m300 would be enough for 2 10", but when I tried it out, i felt the bass was kinda pushing. so what's the deal?

choice No.1
Alpine MRD-M500
900W MAX Power
500W x 1 (2ohm 14.4V)
price: 300-350

choice No. 2
MRD-M300
600w MAx
300w x 1(2ohm 14.4v)
price: 250

the sub i have and the one i will be getting
10" (4ohm + 4ohm)
1000w peak
300w rms
frequency 28Hz-2kHz

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Help me out
 

If I remember correctly, he wasn't asking for scientific explanations:rolleyes: so no need to expain the meaning of anything as that was not what he was looking for. He asked what would work, I gave him the parameters that would ultimately decide that, in laymans terms. I'll leave the unnecessary display of car audio terminology and definitions to people like yourself who throw those terms and definitions out to noobs only to make car audio seem more intimidating than it really is. I don't really feel a need to continue this "exchange" as it really isn't necessary. I have my way, you have yours, lets agree to disagree aight? :thumbup:

choice #1

/^Blackmagik^\, did you get that? :fawk: