header to downpipe gasket needed - OBX
07-10-2011, 03:01 AM
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header to downpipe gasket needed - OBX
Anyone know where I can get the gasket for the OBX header on my '02 Accord 2.3L F23? I need the gasket that mates the 'header to the downpipe'. (3 bolt hole & 2 tube gasket).
[the other gaskets aren't a problem, as FelPro makes the gasket for the 'header flange to the cylinder head', and an OEM Honda compression ring type gasket works okay for the 'downpipe to cat' connection]
OBX doesn't reply to any emails sent to their tech dept - for over 4 wks. Their 'authorized dealers' - eBay only - aren't any help, either. So much for OBX's lifetme warranty!
You'd think that a simple gasket like this one would be a no-brainer, but every parts store and several exhaust shops around here (north of Atlanta), have been unable to match the OBX gasket to any OEM part.
Anybody have any suggestions, or better: know what specific OEM gasket will work, or where to get the OBX gasket?
Please - no comments like 'OBX sucks', etc, as I already wrote that. . .The header itself isn't bad, considering that it's been on the car for over 5 yrs/60k miles already, but one of the welds had cracked, and after re-welding all of the old welds, I had it ceramic coated, so replacing the header isn't an option - esp just to get a new gasket!
[the other gaskets aren't a problem, as FelPro makes the gasket for the 'header flange to the cylinder head', and an OEM Honda compression ring type gasket works okay for the 'downpipe to cat' connection]
OBX doesn't reply to any emails sent to their tech dept - for over 4 wks. Their 'authorized dealers' - eBay only - aren't any help, either. So much for OBX's lifetme warranty!
You'd think that a simple gasket like this one would be a no-brainer, but every parts store and several exhaust shops around here (north of Atlanta), have been unable to match the OBX gasket to any OEM part.
Anybody have any suggestions, or better: know what specific OEM gasket will work, or where to get the OBX gasket?
Please - no comments like 'OBX sucks', etc, as I already wrote that. . .The header itself isn't bad, considering that it's been on the car for over 5 yrs/60k miles already, but one of the welds had cracked, and after re-welding all of the old welds, I had it ceramic coated, so replacing the header isn't an option - esp just to get a new gasket!
07-17-2011, 08:00 AM
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Problem solved. . .Found the OBX gasket @ Tuning Depot (eBay seller of OBX products). Their eBay listing didn't mention that the Civic / Prelude (??) downpipe gasket also was exactly the same as the one OBX uses for Accord F23 applications, too. After confirming w/ them that it was the right gasket, they shipped it from the left coast to the right coast in 2 days.
In fact, I'm keeping that gasket as a spare since the orig OBX gasket was in okay condition - esp after using Permatex high-temp silicone (copper) sealant, along w/ fixing the dumb-ass problem caused by the exhaust shop that re-welded the cracked welds, and then re-installed the header w/out using a washer under the nuts (for the 3 bolts on the flange). The raised 'boss' between the bolt head and where the threads start was exposed (w/out the washers) as it exited the nut side of the flange, making it impossible to tighten down the nut sufficiently to get a tight seal on the gasket. (note: such bolts are often larger in diameter on the portion of the shank w/out threads) I found a super exhaust shop (Jasper Muffler) in Talking Rock, GA - just north of Cherokee County (suburb of Atlanta) that solved the stupid problem in 10 minutes for $10. Such a deal!
Thought I'd pass this along too, as it's often a simple, human-induced problem that causes all sorts of unnecessary time-consuming & often expensive fixes. The 'problem' all began when I took the lazy way out of re-installing the header after it had been re-welded (rather than doing it myself), as I had a a different repair shop w/ it's ASE trained mechanics (sic) re-install it, and they caused the problem, but were unable to find a suitable gasket, sending me off to find the gasket I didn't need . . . If I had done the work, I would always use new washers (and also replace the bolts and/or nuts if they were gawled), as I am a firm believer that mundane hardware - esp the cheap shit made in China - is good for just so many re-tightenings, esp when heat or any physical stress is placed on such connections. (bolts stretch, distort, threads get damaged, bolt heads get rounded-over, corrode, and even weaken from 100s of extreme temp-recyclings, and so on)
Also, I suggest that one make a tracing/template of any non-OEM gaskets, as one cannot rely on most aftermarket suppliers to offer any after-the-sale support, as OBX demonstrated in this case. That little drawing may make it much simpler to find a suitable gasket (or make one) before tearing a car apart to replace that gasket, as almost all parts houses these days only look up a part number on a computer, and most don't have a clue when it comes to sourcing replacement parts from Asian aftermarket component manufacturers. Just tape those drawings, plus any pertinent cross-referancing, etc info, in your shop manual. . .
In fact, I'm keeping that gasket as a spare since the orig OBX gasket was in okay condition - esp after using Permatex high-temp silicone (copper) sealant, along w/ fixing the dumb-ass problem caused by the exhaust shop that re-welded the cracked welds, and then re-installed the header w/out using a washer under the nuts (for the 3 bolts on the flange). The raised 'boss' between the bolt head and where the threads start was exposed (w/out the washers) as it exited the nut side of the flange, making it impossible to tighten down the nut sufficiently to get a tight seal on the gasket. (note: such bolts are often larger in diameter on the portion of the shank w/out threads) I found a super exhaust shop (Jasper Muffler) in Talking Rock, GA - just north of Cherokee County (suburb of Atlanta) that solved the stupid problem in 10 minutes for $10. Such a deal!
Thought I'd pass this along too, as it's often a simple, human-induced problem that causes all sorts of unnecessary time-consuming & often expensive fixes. The 'problem' all began when I took the lazy way out of re-installing the header after it had been re-welded (rather than doing it myself), as I had a a different repair shop w/ it's ASE trained mechanics (sic) re-install it, and they caused the problem, but were unable to find a suitable gasket, sending me off to find the gasket I didn't need . . . If I had done the work, I would always use new washers (and also replace the bolts and/or nuts if they were gawled), as I am a firm believer that mundane hardware - esp the cheap shit made in China - is good for just so many re-tightenings, esp when heat or any physical stress is placed on such connections. (bolts stretch, distort, threads get damaged, bolt heads get rounded-over, corrode, and even weaken from 100s of extreme temp-recyclings, and so on)
Also, I suggest that one make a tracing/template of any non-OEM gaskets, as one cannot rely on most aftermarket suppliers to offer any after-the-sale support, as OBX demonstrated in this case. That little drawing may make it much simpler to find a suitable gasket (or make one) before tearing a car apart to replace that gasket, as almost all parts houses these days only look up a part number on a computer, and most don't have a clue when it comes to sourcing replacement parts from Asian aftermarket component manufacturers. Just tape those drawings, plus any pertinent cross-referancing, etc info, in your shop manual. . .