2003 accord 2.4l compression problem
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2
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From: sacramento, ca
2003 accord 2.4l compression problem
I'm having a wierd problem with a 2.4l 03 accord. Just out of the blue went out to start it and nothing it won't run worth a crap. I have to hold the gas to keep it running and it's bucking and popping all over the place. It set a code for camshaft postion sensor A. I changed the solonoid no luck. I did a compression check and i'm getting weird results. First it was 150, 100, 100, 150
then it was 60, 120, 120 90. I know these are all low numbers, but why am I getting such different results. I fully charged the battery also had a jumper box during numerous tests, and I could never get consistent results. 150 was the highest I have ever got on any cylinder. Is it possible that the vtec is stuck on? Any opinions would be greatly appreaciated. At this point I'm just looking at dropping a used motor in it and saying forget trying to figure this crazy one out.
then it was 60, 120, 120 90. I know these are all low numbers, but why am I getting such different results. I fully charged the battery also had a jumper box during numerous tests, and I could never get consistent results. 150 was the highest I have ever got on any cylinder. Is it possible that the vtec is stuck on? Any opinions would be greatly appreaciated. At this point I'm just looking at dropping a used motor in it and saying forget trying to figure this crazy one out.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 29
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From: north georgia
Here is an idea
This is just a thought but it might push you in the right direction. It is possible that you might have some teeth stripped off of you timing belt. This happened to my brother's girlfriend recently. If some of the teeth stripped off or the gears just jumped a few teeth then the the engine would probably run but it would buck and kick like you describe. This would also account for the weird compression readings you are getting due to the fact that some of the valves may be partially open or closed when the cylinders reach the top of the stroke. I would suspect that hooking a timing light would show you if this is the problem. I'm basing this "diagnostic nugget" on the fact that the crank dictates piston placement and the camshaft controls valves and rotor cap angles. If the belt has slipped then TDC and FIRE don't happen at the same time. (for the sake of this discussion I'm pretending that fire and TDC happen at the same time although it's usually about 5 to 10 degrees apart). I would suspect that anything greater than 15 or 20 degrees would indicate that you have located the problem.
Like I said, It's just a thought. It might be cheaper than a replacement engine but belt replacement can be a big frustration too.
I hope this is of some help.
Dan
Like I said, It's just a thought. It might be cheaper than a replacement engine but belt replacement can be a big frustration too.
I hope this is of some help.
Dan