Anyone replace wheel bearing on 6th gen yet?
 

Same wheel (Pass. Rear) has gone bad again :mad:

Anyone else have bearing problems w/ 6th gen?

Yes, right rear. I could hear it while driving. My 2000 Accord has 70k miles.

Yup, I'm pretty sure both of mine are shot. I have been able to hear them starting at 45mph for a couple of months now. I have 98 4dr/lx/4cyl with 139,000 miles on it. Dealer says I need to replace both bearing AND both hubs. WTF? The cost, $420.00 in Atlanta. I don't think so.

Does anyone know if you can replace the bearings yourself? It can probably be done at home if it doesn't require special tools, or if those bearing aren't pressed on.

Also, majestichonda.com has them for about $96.00 each. (Part #36322) I'm still looking though.

Thae only special tool you will need is a torque wrench. Other than that the hub and bearing assembly is one peice. Just pull the drum or rotors off and loosen the hub nut. Should slide right off the axle. 139 ft lbs for rotor and 134 for drums. (torque specs)

Thanks for the torque specs honda guy. I'm gonna tackle this next weekend.

BTW, the direct link to order parts for majestic honda is www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. I bought a set ignition wires and a windshield washer nozzle there today and saved about $60.00 over the dealer price.

tq. specs u mean u actually use those?

I use torque specs for anything I wouldn't like to come of the car at 70mph.

I just replaced my rears at 175k miles and will need my third set of fronts soon (my first set wore out at about 105k). Wheel bearing problems :confused: It's a part that won't last forever due to many factors, and I'm happy that Honda is supplied by a company that makes bearings that are this good. My dad used to drive a Ford Festiva that used to require brand new OEM front wheel bearings every 15k miles. Not fun.

If your rear bearings are going bad before 100 or so thousand miles, you probably installed them incorrectly or didn't buy OEM. Honda wheel bearings can theoretically last forever, but potholes and things like that decrease their life. Driving in Flint MI for a few months didn't help mine :oh:

80K, noise just started a week or 2 ago.

both my rears are fried ... still haven't gotten around to ordering a new set.

I think I'll do that now ...

I hope he uses them especially on bearings. Why replace them after a thousand miles because they were way to tight. Thats just stupid

I had to replace the right-rear on our '98 at 38,500 miles, it was making lots of noise. Since the axle nut applies the bearing pre-load, it's important to use the correct torque. If you own a torque wrench, it's kinda silly NOT to use it.

I replaced both of the rear wheel bearings this weekend. The were definitely in bad shape. Most of the noise went away, but I still have some noise (humming, whining) and I can't pinpoint it as front or rear. I'm wondering if the front bearings need to be replaced too.

how difficult was the job?


was anything rusted together?

You don't even want to begin to try to mess with the screws that hold the hub in unless you have a torch and a lot of patience. It took me three seperate attempts over 2 days to finally get it off.

It was extremely easy. I was expecting a rough DIY, but I didn't even need a hammer. You take the wheel off, then the drum (just the drum, you don't have to take your brakes apart at all) you undo the safety notch on the nut and then remove the nut.

I do recommend that you use an impact wrench, air or electric. I used and electric, not very powerfull, yet it took the nut off in less than a second. After removing the nut, the wheel bearing assembly simply, really simply, just slid out. I was amazed for such an important part was so easy to remove.

I used a the impact wrench tool tighten the bolt almost to where it was, the I used the torque wrench to finish it.

You seem to have an EX. Mine is an LX so the rear has drums. One nut holds the whole thing in place.

That's what I thought. :happysad:

I have an LX-V6 as it says in my signature. e3 also has rear discs.

The directions on how to remove both are in my TSB thread.

Sorry, must have had a dyslexic moment there.

It was you TSB thread that encourged me to do it myself. Thank man!

No problem. I had to enlist a friend/mechanic to help me get the four asinine screws out of the disc for $10 (well, more of a mechanic than a friend :p ) because I was getting waaay too frustrated.

Talking about the two philips head scews on the rotor? Those suck haha. I had to drill one out the first time I did my rotors. I was even using an impact driver, but it was a cheap harbor freight one, and the bit broke apart before the screw budged haha. I had to send my wife to get me a Craftsman impact driver, and after a good soak of penetrating oil it popped the other three out real easy. I just put one screw back in each rotor with some anti-seize on the threads. I debated putting any of them in, but it does make it easier with the screw holding the rotor in place to put the caliper back on, and when changing pads. (This is just for my fronts, I have the dreaded drums out back :( )

I thought there were four screws? Maybe I'm losing it :oh:

At any rate, they're terrible. I almost stripped one of them before we started blowtorching the hell out of it and bent one screwdriver because it got too hot. It boggles the mind why Honda would put something that retarded into their car...everything else has been so friendly to work on. I can't imagine how bad they would have been if they had been left to rust for 10 years instead of 'only' 5 :eek:

Well I just know that on my two front rotors there are just two screws.
Yeah, it probably doesn't help living in the rust belt. After I got the screws out, of course the rotor doesn't budge cause cause a little rust holding it on. So I give it a tap, give it a donkey kick, give it a smash with a mini sledge, wouldn't budge haha. I seriously beat the hell out of the rotor, wouldn't budge. I finally had to go to Home Depot and buy the bolts that thread down into the rotors and press the rotor off the hub. I couldn't believe it, but that's what it took. They had been on there for 4-5 years and 60K miles or so, but still lol.

It could be worse...we could have the hub-over rotor design the older Accord have. :)

Here's the bolt specs if anyone ends up needing them: