I'm having a problem.
 

As soon as I let my clutch out and go into to neutral, the car will idle super low and then die. If I blipped the throttle after letting the clutch out, it wouldn't stall and would idle normally. First thought was either EGR or IACV. I cleaned all the passage ways for the IACV, including the IACV itself. No luck, still idles like balls and dies. But now, even if I blip the throttle it still idles real low and stalls. Is the EGR my only other option?

Blip is a funny word:p

You can take your egr valve off make a plate out of a pop can, put your egr valve over the plat if it get better it your egr valve stuck open (pop can plate stops exhaust gas flow).

Did you try messing with your air bleed screw (pull it out a little).

I'm such a n00b. It's a 98 Accord 4cyl.

There's two passage ways. Block both?

Yes, one is from the exhaust manifold one to the intake manifold. By blocking them you eliminated the egr valve (just for testing). Why you have it out you can see if it is stuck open but its just like an engine valve if the face of the valve or seat is rusted or burned up it still flows.

Made the plate. Car acted marginally better, but not much. Still stalled out, but only half the time w/ the plate.

You may have other problems or the egr is half the problem. Did this just happen on its own? any work done lately on the car besides the IAC clean?

You can unplug your IAC the idle should go down or kill the car. Then plug it back in it should jump up. You can feel and hear the IAC clicking when you unplug it. Worth a shot. If nothing happens you IAC is stuck open/closed/ in the middle.

You may want to adjust your air bleed screw.

This is kind of strange. If your TP signal is more the .5 volts your ecm thinks you are on the gas a little. The ecm stops using the IAC valve and some time the engine falls on its face. The signal wire is the one in the middle back probe it with a safety pin and see what it is at.

A vac leak would cause a high idle so I do not thing it is that. A failed map senser would code. If it was a fuel system problem you would see it all over the rpm range. An ignition problem you would feel a miss. You can alway take a look at your plugs http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...d.asp?mode=nml some times thy tell a story.

Thats about all I can think of I know you are good at this stuff what else do you think?

Idle actually jumps up when I unplug it. From about 750 to 1250.

Ok you have a rotor iac valve (3 wire) not a needle and seat (2 wire). If thy fail thy have an open seting bringing your idle up so you can drive home. This is good it means you iac is working probably.

Found this also thy have a recall on it http://www.alldata.com/TSB/24/992426aw.html fourth one down you can get it fixed for
free sorry.http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread...int&id=1879684. You may still have found a possible bad egr valve with both of these problems its really fudged up your idle. Have a nice day I'm going to play Mario now.