Accord EX 00, Maintenance / Prevention Parts?
My 2000 Accord EX (4cyl) has 105k now. The car is working in top condition except for an intermittent “Rough Idle” and an intermittent “No Horn” problem. The first one I think is the “IACV”. The other one the dealer told me is the “steering wheel column” which is supposedly a common cause for intermittent horn problems on those Accords.
Now here comes my question… I want to invest no more than $1K on parts and labor to get my car on top condition on the following 2-3 months. I want to identify which parts should I think of replace with this type of mileage even if they are not failing? Just want to extend the efficiency and life of the car. Here is what I have in mind:
Any other recommendation? |
Looks like you've done a better job than most.
You should never have to replace the dist. unless it fails. New wires might help, but you can test their resistance and compare it to the factory spec if you don't want to spend the money. $1k is ridiculous...I'm not sure why you're hell bent on spending so much money. Keep doing your routine maintenance until something breaks. You can clean the IACV and EGR ports, rarely do either of those two need a replacement part after only 100k miles. |
Alternators typically go at any time.
All your drive belts have to be changed at 90K |
Originally Posted by e3NiNe
Alternators typically go at any time.
|
I was thinking on cleaning the IACV, but it seams so hard to reach. I think I will have to remove the TB completely to reach in. The EGR, although it is no so hard to reach, the space to work is very limited. That’s why I’m thinking of replace them at the dealer. I just buy the parts (which they charge over 45% the price I get) and pay the hour rate which I think it should 1- 2 hr for both replacements ($150).
I was thinking $1K just to cover parts and some labors which I not confident on doing myself. The $1K I budget is for a 2-3 month period. It’s like investing $300 a month to top condition my car. I ended the loan payments last month so I’m thinking it’s like a 3 month extension on the loan but with a lower monthly payment. :) I will definitely follow the advice on the wires. Will test their resistance this weekend and compare it to the manual specs. Thanks "98CoupeV6"… Also I will put my "drive belts" on schedule for my next maintenance. Thanks "e3NiNe"... What kind of obvious symptoms should I look for on the ALT? |
Originally Posted by webie
I was thinking on cleaning the IACV, but it seams so hard to reach. I think I will have to remove the TB completely to reach in. The EGR, although it is no so hard to reach, the space to work is very limited. That’s why I’m thinking of replace them at the dealer. I just buy the parts (which they charge over 45% the price I get) and pay the hour rate which I think it should 1- 2 hr for both replacements ($150).
I was thinking $1K just to cover parts and some labors which I not confident on doing myself. The $1K I budget is for a 2-3 month period. It’s like investing $300 a month to top condition my car. I ended the loan payments last month so I’m thinking it’s like a 3 month extension on the loan but with a lower monthly payment. :) |
I have the "Helms manual" or "Honda Service" don't know which one is, but is the big one with a silver cover.
I agree with you, and I always prefer to do it myself. I trust in me more than I trust the dealer; and also I learn on the process. But on my car the IACV is behind the TB which is located almost under the windshield, this makes almost impossible to remove the IACV without removing the TB. And the TB has so much attached to it that it scares me a little. Maybe is more easy that what I think, but for the looks I have done on it seams like though job. |
Originally Posted by webie
I have the "Helms manual" or "Honda Service" don't know which one is, but is the big one with a silver cover.
I agree with you, and I always prefer to do it myself. I trust in me more than I trust the dealer; and also I learn on the process. But on my car the IACV is behind the TB which is located almost under the windshield, this makes almost impossible to remove the IACV without removing the TB. And the TB has so much attached to it that it scares me a little. Maybe is more easy that what I think, but for the looks I have done on it seams like though job. |
Originally Posted by webie
My 2000 Accord EX (4cyl) has 105k now. The car is working in top condition except for an intermittent “Rough Idle” and an intermittent “No Horn” problem. The first one I think is the “IACV”. The other one the dealer told me is the “steering wheel column” which is supposedly a common cause for intermittent horn problems on those Accords.
Now here comes my question… I want to invest no more than $1K on parts and labor to get my car on top condition on the following 2-3 months. I want to identify which parts should I think of replace with this type of mileage even if they are not failing? Just want to extend the efficiency and life of the car. Here is what I have in mind:
Any other recommendation? How about -valve adjustment -flushing power steering -thats all I can think of |
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