99 Accord V6 getting code P0740
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99 Accord V6 getting code P0740
Can you guys help me...?
I have 118 Kmiles on my Accord, and taking a good care of it.
My transmission started acting weird a few days ago (the weather became a bit colder). Stopping at the first stop near my house, and I am getting a sudden jerk in the transm., and very irregular shifting. To top it all I got a P0740 - Problem in Lock-up Control System. I am resetting it, and getting it very consistently at speeds > 55 mph. I have looked at the following posting: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...5&postcount=17
and was able to take and test the "torque converter clutch solenoid valve/ shift solenoid valve A" (it is just a solenoid, and applying voltage to it, I could get it to open, so it works as it was designed). How can I check the " A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B"???? What pressure should trigger them? Any other suggestions how to diagnose, and to repair the problem?
Thank you in advance!
Roman.
I have 118 Kmiles on my Accord, and taking a good care of it.
My transmission started acting weird a few days ago (the weather became a bit colder). Stopping at the first stop near my house, and I am getting a sudden jerk in the transm., and very irregular shifting. To top it all I got a P0740 - Problem in Lock-up Control System. I am resetting it, and getting it very consistently at speeds > 55 mph. I have looked at the following posting: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...5&postcount=17
and was able to take and test the "torque converter clutch solenoid valve/ shift solenoid valve A" (it is just a solenoid, and applying voltage to it, I could get it to open, so it works as it was designed). How can I check the " A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valves A and B"???? What pressure should trigger them? Any other suggestions how to diagnose, and to repair the problem?
Thank you in advance!
Roman.
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98CoupeV6,
Thank you for your reply. I am just trying to do everything I can to prolong the time before I spend ~$4,000 in repairs.
I would like to ask you a few other questions, if you don't mind answering them of course...
The Mitchell manual suggests checking the hydraulic pressure before checking the solenoids. I have checked the solenoids, since it is very easy, but the pressure... 1. I don't know where a pressure gauge output, and 2. What pressure is a normal one? Could you give me some guidance?
In the following post: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...90&postcount=4
You said: "Maybe the previous owner did a few neutral drops the week before he got rid of the car." What does that mean (neutral drops)? Does that mean shifting to neutral while driving? Is that bad? Because I did it a few times going down the hill just to check my tires balance... :-(
Right now I am driving and do not feel any difference in shifting, and getting P0740 very consistently at cruise speeds, is it dangerous to drive the car in this condition? Or mechanically transm. is ok?
Thank you very much for taking time to answer me!
Thank you for your reply. I am just trying to do everything I can to prolong the time before I spend ~$4,000 in repairs.
I would like to ask you a few other questions, if you don't mind answering them of course...
The Mitchell manual suggests checking the hydraulic pressure before checking the solenoids. I have checked the solenoids, since it is very easy, but the pressure... 1. I don't know where a pressure gauge output, and 2. What pressure is a normal one? Could you give me some guidance?
In the following post: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...90&postcount=4
You said: "Maybe the previous owner did a few neutral drops the week before he got rid of the car." What does that mean (neutral drops)? Does that mean shifting to neutral while driving? Is that bad? Because I did it a few times going down the hill just to check my tires balance... :-(
Right now I am driving and do not feel any difference in shifting, and getting P0740 very consistently at cruise speeds, is it dangerous to drive the car in this condition? Or mechanically transm. is ok?
Thank you very much for taking time to answer me!
lots and lots of fail
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 23,004
Likes: 1
From: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
Roman,
Neutral drops are when you rev the car up in neutral and drop it into D4 at a standstill, similiar to dumping the clutch in a manual but far more retarded and without any similiar acceleration gain. FYI, your fuel injectors shut off when coasting above 1100 RPM (no throttle) so putting it in neutral to go down hills isn't beneficial to save gas. I know that wasn't why you were doing it.
Buy a Helms (Honda factory service manual) for the pressure stuff on the solenoids or subscribe to Alldata, that's where I get my info from. Both have every specification imaginable. I have no idea what a 'Mitchell' manual is.
Obviously if your tranny is on its way out it makes no difference whether or not you abuse it now, you'll have to replace it anyway. $4000 is way too much to pay, you can buy a Honda reman new for like $1500. I bought a slightly used MY2001 tranny for $700 shipped and had it put in for $300.
If the tranny isn't slipping on the 1-2 shift (or engaging very hard) and doesn't slip at all when you floor it in 4th to drop down to 3rd or 2nd, maybe it's not the clutch packs or bearings but that solenoid. If I were you I'd buy a Helms (only $100 for both the regular sedan/coupe manual and the V6 supplement). The pressure might be something only a Honda dealer can check or maybe you can do it yourself, I've never done it so I have no idea. My Helms is in my car but it probably gives instructions on how to. Did you try a google search or a search in here for it? Also, if the hydraulic pressure is too low, what is the solution? I don't remember if that was in my instructions. Hope this helps.
Neutral drops are when you rev the car up in neutral and drop it into D4 at a standstill, similiar to dumping the clutch in a manual but far more retarded and without any similiar acceleration gain. FYI, your fuel injectors shut off when coasting above 1100 RPM (no throttle) so putting it in neutral to go down hills isn't beneficial to save gas. I know that wasn't why you were doing it.
Buy a Helms (Honda factory service manual) for the pressure stuff on the solenoids or subscribe to Alldata, that's where I get my info from. Both have every specification imaginable. I have no idea what a 'Mitchell' manual is.
Obviously if your tranny is on its way out it makes no difference whether or not you abuse it now, you'll have to replace it anyway. $4000 is way too much to pay, you can buy a Honda reman new for like $1500. I bought a slightly used MY2001 tranny for $700 shipped and had it put in for $300.
If the tranny isn't slipping on the 1-2 shift (or engaging very hard) and doesn't slip at all when you floor it in 4th to drop down to 3rd or 2nd, maybe it's not the clutch packs or bearings but that solenoid. If I were you I'd buy a Helms (only $100 for both the regular sedan/coupe manual and the V6 supplement). The pressure might be something only a Honda dealer can check or maybe you can do it yourself, I've never done it so I have no idea. My Helms is in my car but it probably gives instructions on how to. Did you try a google search or a search in here for it? Also, if the hydraulic pressure is too low, what is the solution? I don't remember if that was in my instructions. Hope this helps.
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Thank you guys for the responses!
to 98CoupeV6:
The reason why I want to know the pressure and how to measure it, is so I can null out the hydraulic system problem (hopefully), and then it leaves me with just a wiring to the ECU or loose sockets.
to stereo:
I have changed the fluid 2 or 3 KMiles ago, and it looks OK to me...
I can't imagine that it will be bad after that many miles. And I did use Honda's ATF.
Roman.
to 98CoupeV6:
The reason why I want to know the pressure and how to measure it, is so I can null out the hydraulic system problem (hopefully), and then it leaves me with just a wiring to the ECU or loose sockets.
to stereo:
I have changed the fluid 2 or 3 KMiles ago, and it looks OK to me...
I can't imagine that it will be bad after that many miles. And I did use Honda's ATF.
Roman.
lots and lots of fail
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 23,004
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From: Deeeeeeeeeeeeeeetroit
k, I have my Helms right here anyway...
ATF Line pressure = at 1500 RPM in P or N - 800-860 kpa/120-130psi/8.2-8.8 kgf/cm^2. Service limit is 760kpa/110/7.7
Clutch pressures are all similiar with service limits for those all being 750/7.6/110.
ATF Line pressure = at 1500 RPM in P or N - 800-860 kpa/120-130psi/8.2-8.8 kgf/cm^2. Service limit is 760kpa/110/7.7
Clutch pressures are all similiar with service limits for those all being 750/7.6/110.
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From: Bethlehem PA
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Well...
Nothing saved me, and $2150.00 later, I am still driving my Honda...
I have heard that Honda extended 7 year/ 100K mile warranty on certain V6 models (mine of course did not make it by 1 year, and 40K miles). Check the link below.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/aos/246319458.html
Good luck with your transmission!
Roman.
Nothing saved me, and $2150.00 later, I am still driving my Honda...
I have heard that Honda extended 7 year/ 100K mile warranty on certain V6 models (mine of course did not make it by 1 year, and 40K miles). Check the link below.
http://dallas.craigslist.org/aos/246319458.html
Good luck with your transmission!
Roman.