91 Accord won't start, won't crank, full dash lights..
#1
91 Accord won't start, won't crank, full dash lights..
I have a 91 honda accord that was driven parked and about an hour later will no longer do anything.. When you turn the key full bright dash lights, but that's all. No sound just nothing.. I had the starter checked it's good. That Mechanic said it's electrical, and left. I'm not sure how it could be related but the only thing wrong recently has been it's hard shifting especially into third.
#2
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Clean the battery terminals (posts and clamps).
Dash lights require very little current.
Starter requires huge amount of current.
Does the starting problem occur when it's hot outside?
if so, it could be the main relay has gone bad (cold crack soldier joints in the relay itself).
Check all the grounds (and clean if necessary)
-transmission
-engine at valve cover
-thermostat housing (this is the main ECU ground)
-car body ground
-negative battery terminal
Hard shifting into third or any other gear means the syncro for that gear is worn and might be going bad. (nothing electrical there)
Dash lights require very little current.
Starter requires huge amount of current.
Does the starting problem occur when it's hot outside?
if so, it could be the main relay has gone bad (cold crack soldier joints in the relay itself).
Check all the grounds (and clean if necessary)
-transmission
-engine at valve cover
-thermostat housing (this is the main ECU ground)
-car body ground
-negative battery terminal
Hard shifting into third or any other gear means the syncro for that gear is worn and might be going bad. (nothing electrical there)
Last edited by ChrisS; 06-18-2015 at 12:26 AM.
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I'm going to guess that after a year, Sheri has fixed the problem... however, this might help someone else (if this is a 5 speed manual trany). It could be the Clutch safety switch. It keeps you from starting the car without the clutch pushed in. $20 part... pain in the behind to change. Mounted on the clutch pedal bracket (above your feet). A jumper (paper clip) on the connector will bypass the unit to confirm good or bad. More likely is the little blue rubber button that goes in the hole that the clutch switch pushes on. It's 25 years old and will soon crumble (brake light has one too). A low-profile bolt and friction nut in the hole fixes that problem. Again... pain the the butt to get to.