I got a 6th gen sedan (LX I-4) and it needs front brakes. Should I just go ahead and replace the pads in the front or should I resurface/cut the front rotors as well as replacing the pads? What would be a better route? Thanks.

 

How many miles on your stock rotors? Any vibration under braking?

If so, I'd go for new rotors.

Personally I would just get new rotors rather than turn the old ones.

 

The rotors are the ones that came with the car in '98. They now have about 52k miles on them. There is no vibration during braking. What's a good place to get rotors for a reasonable price? I was thinking of doing the rotors, pads, and bleeding the brake fluid and replacing it with new Honda fluid.

 

Well I just ordered some Brembo OEM replacement rotors from a friend who can get parts, but they have them on www.groupbuycenter.com for a pretty good deal.

I'd say since you have 50K miles, and you are going to do the pads anyway, it might be a good idea to just do the rotors at the same time.

If you don't have any vibration under braking, etc, you could get away with using your stock rotors still, it's just up to you.

I'm turning 70K and I'm changing them for the first time as well.

I'd change fluid no matter what, your car is due.

 

I'll budge in with my problem:

My pads and rotors are stock @45k. The pads seem like they have some more life to them but my braking is horrible. The brakes either suck or lock up the tires. I wanted to know if it is the brake fluid that needs replacing or do the brakes need to be replaced. How hard is changing/bleeding the brake fluid? Can I do it with common tools?

Also do the rear drums need any work or are those almost bullet proof?

If I do decide to change I was thinking EBC grooved rotors and EBC Green Stuff pads. I would like to get the AEM or other brand big brake kit but I don't think they have them for the i4's.

 

If you are locking up the wheels, then it's not that your brakes suck, that means they are working.

The problem is the lack of ABS.

Rear drums will outlast the front pads and rotors most likely.

You can bleed/flush the brake fluid with simple tools. Easiest if you have a friend to push the brake pedal for you. Turkey baster will help to suck the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and will give you a good starting place to add new fluid and begin flushing the system.

More aggresive pads and rotors will stop the wheels faster, but if all you are doing is locking them up, won't really be an improvement over stock. Modulating the brake pedal better or getting tires with more grip and/or larger footprint can help in decreasing braking distance. EDIT...I see you already have wider tires...the same tires I have.

Also...if you are frequently locking up your brakes...the solution may be to not follow people so closely.

 

I would suggest turning (cut) along with a good set of pads and proper break in.

I stand by AEM pads. Little dust and alot better than OEM Honda pads.

 

jschmid: I'm still not convinced. I drove my dads i4 7rh gen coupe today that is all stock and the brakes were awsome, even though I just cruised around town the car felt like it was going to stop if need be. The thing is the brakes in my car don't feel solid before they lock up under heavy breaking. Also the last time I went auto-x after my final run there was a funny smell coming from my brakes and they had faded before the run was over. I did use my last run for experimenting with left foot braking so they took a beating.... I think something needs changing. I'll start with the fluid and see how it goes.

What do braided steel brake lines do? It seems like a purely cosmetic add on.

 

They have a function. Your stock lines are rubber after the hard lines, so the rubber expands on hydraulic compression. Braided lines don't expand like that, so you get a more firm pedal feel it's supposed to help with fade.

Yeah, maybe try the brake fluid first and go from there.

I'd say get some new fluid, more aggressive pads, and braided lines. That should improve things.

The pads will probably be the biggest factor, but the fluid is due to be changed anyway, so do that no matter what.