my power windows won't roll...
 

i did a power window swap on my 97 dx hatchback. Well I replaced the whole doors with 99 si doors. Anyhow, the doors were sitting in the garage for a few months. When I finally got the power running to the doors, I can get the doors to roll up or down. It moves an inch down, but that's it....any suggestions? i tried spraying the window tracks with some lubricant, but it didn't seem to help to much.

force it down, if it breaks your fawked..

but honestly, is there something caught in the tracks?

no there is nothing on the track. I have to push it up while holding the power window button up. same way going down. it's alot of force i have to use too....not sure what to do.

my passenger's side one does sticks all the time. i have to pull it while pressing the button. annoying, but too lazy to figure out whats wrong with it.

maybe its connected wrong and your not getting enough power to the motors, or maybe the power window motors are just shot? Did you try them out on the car they were pulled from to see if they work fine? You know it could be maybe the windows are off track too.

My 93 EX did the same thing. Everytime i would go to roll up the driver window, id have to help it up with the palm of my hand. I ended up taking it to some japanese mechanics place and they charged me 180 to replace the window motors and lube everything up. Well worth the money to get fixed, rolls up like a champ now. Hope this helped

open up the door skins, take a 12V test light to the connections and see if you're getting power when you press the button. also check your connections to make sure they are seated fully, as i had that problem after replacing a power window motor once. if the windows are in the tracks properly, the arm is connected to the motor securely, and the spring (should be a spring to assist the lifting) is there, AND you've got power at the connections, then you need to replace the motors. Not sure what they run for a civic, but i paid $50-ish for one for my 91 Blazer. Diagnose and go from there!

fuse???:confused:

I used a dc supply regulator..to test it out...i think that's what it's called. it plugs into your house plug, and sends a dc volt so you can test your car stuff. Well i supplied it with that power. It's adjustable up to 20volts. The window rolls down about 1/2 inch, but doesn't roll to far down. It doesn't roll up thought. it looks like it's trying, but it can't. I replaced the whole doors, not just swap the internals. And no the windows aren't off track. they roll back and forth on the track correctly. are you sure it's the motor. what are the chance of both side that the motors aren't working. it looks like the motor works...maybe not enough power going thru them?

If you applied the proper amount of power directly to the window motor and it still didn't work, you've pretty much found the problem. window motors are bad. sounds like you've diagnosed this the right way. I always start off checking the fuse panel, then ckeck to make sure there is power at the connection. i don't have an external power supply like you do (yet) but that's the next step. When my power window motor went bad in my Blazer, it would occasionally work, which led me to believe it was a wire problem, but it was a bad motor.

chances of both sides being bad at the same time....i wouldn't say there's really a chance of it, it's just the basic "sh!t happens" philosophy in effect. i've had a fuel pump go out in one car and then a fuel pump go out in the other car 4 weeks later. I recently had the exhaust piping rust to pieces on one car, and at the same time the other car had the same problem.

Since you've applied power to the motors and found that they don't work, you're done. you know they are both bad. don't forget to check for power on your wiring connector to make sure your wiring is good as well before installing the new motors.

One word of caution in replacing those motors. Look over the motor and arm assembly carefully before taking it all apart. Last car i did one on the motor was rivited to the arm assembly. there was a coiled up spring on the arm assembly that was almost 1" thick and about 3" across. I almost lost a finger by not making sure the arm was in the "up" position before drilling out the rivits. that fu*ker flew and i even got whacked in the forehead. damn well hurt. thought i'd give you that advice....learn from other's mistakes, it's less painful that way! :)