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-   -   92 Civic distributor, ignition, coil (https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/92-civic-el-and-del-sol/280737-92-civic-distributor-ignition-coil.html)

slytek 11-05-2007 10:26 AM

92 Civic distributor, ignition, coil
 
ok ill start from the begining my car blew a heater hose and got water and coolant all over the plugs and wires and the distributor and now the car wont start i have tired all the tricks and also checked for spark and there is none so what iam asking is does anyone know where i can get a diagram or any info on that area of the car its a 1.5L 92 civic what i need to know are the distributor components and when i do replace the distributor is the coil and ignition inside it? from what i have seen i belive it is if anyone has any help please let me know :)

94jdmcivic 11-05-2007 07:46 PM

If i were you, i would just replace the plugs, wires, and rotor. try that and if it still doesnt work, i would get a new distributor

RYNO48 11-06-2007 02:39 PM

Ok, so did the car overheat? Was it just leaking? Civic's don't really tend to "blow" hoses as often as one might be old and start leaking. Changing the plugs and wires really didn't need to be done. People powerwash there engine bays all the time without problems. Did you take the cap off the distributer and whip it clean and dry. Any moisture in the cap and rotor area will cause it not to run.

A-series 11-08-2007 03:57 AM

First I'd just remove the distributor cap and take a look, see if anything is corroded or disconnected.

I find it easiest to just leave the plug wires on the cap, just pull the cap straight off. If not enough slack in the wires you're less likely to mix anything up if you remove the plug boot end rather than the dizzy cap end. (otherwise I've also used a spare cap as a "holder")

Take a look at the connections underneath on the coil and the ignitor. If you don't see any obvious problems, the first thing I would do is check for power at the various connections and check the resistance of the ignition coil

First - For the connections on the ignitor (also called ignition module) you first disconnect all the wires and, with the ignition on(after disconnecting wires), check for voltage between each wire and ground.

The Black/Yellow wire is from the ignition switch.

The White/Blue wire is from the ignition coil (as you'll notice).

The Yellow/Green wire is from the ECU.

and the Blue wire is from the Tachometer.

If those appear to be normal (including correct resistance on the coil) it indicates the ignitor as the problem.

Second - (Using any ohm/volt meter you have or find at a store)The resistance on the ignition coil between +(A) and -(B) should be .6-.8ohms That's at room temp.

Between +(A) and the secondary winding terminal (the spring) the resistance should be 13,200-19,800ohms.

When my coil went out (same year, 1.6L) the A to B was normal, but A to the spring was out of spec (around 8,000).


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