B18C1 valve seal replacement question
 

I finally got around to replacing the valve seals on my B18C1. I'm following WildoutWhite GSR's tutorial that's posted on several sites (such as Team-Integra). I would copy and paste a link but I can't on my current browser. Anyway, I'm stuck on step #14. I just removed the cam shafts. What's the purpose of connecting an air compressor to the spark plug hole? Is this necessary? This step is right before removing the valve keepers. Thanks for any help!

If you don't compress the cylinder and put the piston at TDC before you remove the valve keepers, the valve will drop into the combustion chamber and you will have to remove the head to fish it out. Probably not much fun.

You can actually get away with just putting the piston at TDC but you will notice the valve drop a little bit when the keepers are removed. It makes it a little more difficult to get the valve springs back on.

What are you using for a valve spring compressor? What are you going to be pulling the seals off with?

Thanks for the quick reply. That makes a lot of sense. I don't have a compressor on hand, but I do have one of those portable air tanks that I'll try and adapt to this purpose. As for removing the valve seals, I was going to try using pliers as suggested in the tutorial. Bad idea? Also, I was going to stop by Autozone/NAPA/O'Reilley's to get a valve spring compressor. I am assuming they sell those. How much do they run? Thanks again.

I've been reading about the "rope trick" to keep the valves pushed up. If I put rope in when it's at BDC and turn the engine, is it a problem if there's too much rope in there and I can't get it back to TDC? Does it not matter anymore once the cam shaft is off?

You will need a special adapter that screws into the spark plug hole if you don't already have one.

Pliers work fine. You have to wiggle it off and be sure not to apply too much pressure to the seal, otherwise it will be harder get off.

Good luck finding an on-the-car valve spring compressor that will fit a Honda head at any local autoparts store. I had to special order a Snap-on one to do the job. Everything at my local autoparts store was too large and/or required head removal to get the valve springs off.

I wouldn't put rope in my combustion chambers, but that is just me. :ugh:

Any problem with working on the valves for a cylinder when it's not TDC?

I'll have to take a trip to several auto part stores today and see what they got for valve spring compressors.

Here's the spring compressor the guy is using in the tutorial. Apparently it works fine for him but others have said it's too fat.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ls/1010262.jpg

And just for the record, here's the tutorial I'm following along: http://www.team-integra.net/forum/di...g+Common+Topic

If you remove the springs from a cylinder that isn't at TDC and/or filled with compressed air, the valve will drop into the combustion chamber and you will have to remove the head to fish it out. Be very careful and double check before removing the valve springs.

If you plan on getting that valve spring compressor, I hope you are a burly guy with a lot of endurance. Doing 16 valvesprings with absolutely no leverage is going to make your body feel 100 years older the next morning. Look around online for a Honda-specific valve spring compressor. I guarantee you won't find anything at a local store.

Well I made the valve spring compressor problem a little easier now that I'll be taking the head off. I wasn't paying attention and sure enough, removed one too many valve springs (on a cylinder that was at BDC). I couldn't believe I was so stupid, but sure enough, the valve has dissapeared into the cylinder. So now I've got most everything disconnected from the head except the intake manifold. Any easy way to take that off? I can't get to those bolts on the bottom side of it. Also, any other routine maintenance I should perform since I'm going this far? I figure I'll at least replace the head gasket. Would replacing the piston rings be much more trouble? The purpose of all this was to fix my burning oil problem and I'm pretty sure it is the valve seals, but I'll be pretty upset if it's coming from the rings. Previous compression test worked out ok. Cylinder 4 definitely has some black gunk in it. The others (pistons) look somewhat shiney still. Any suggestions welcome.

If the head is coming off, you might as well replace the rings as well. It is another 30 minutes to drop the pan and undo the rod bolts. The new rings need to be gapped and spaced correctly and the cylinders honed. The head gasket will need to be replaced anytime the head is removed.

Getting the intake manifold off is possible, but tricky. To get those two or three bottom bolts, you need to get underneath the car, remove the oil filter and any wiring in the way (probably the knock sensor harness as well), and use a 12 mm socket and smaller 3/8" socket wrench on those bolts. I assume the manifold bracket has been removed. That piece can be thrown away to avoid any future hassle.

Just a quick question, what did you end up getting to compress the valve springs?