wiscbadger

Hello,

My 1996 Civic LX keeps blowing the alternator fuse. I have replaced twice. I can drive for 10 min and then it blows and I lose the speedo and the lights start to dim and then brighten. Surging is the best word that comes to mind. What is the issue? Is the alternator going bad? The check engine light also came on. The battery light has not come on but maybe it is burnt out. Any opinions are appreciated.

Thanks

HcOiNvDiAc

dont know bout the cel but you could just have a short somewhere as to why your blowin fuses ..check for bare wires,try cd player or anything thats been messed with and if you see a bare wire tape it up and try changing the fuse again

Wharbone

What code is your CEL throwing?

If you don't know how to check it, look at the sticky at the top of this forum.

honda guy

if its the # 15 fuse its probably a short under the intake.

read this thread.

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=183977

wiscbadger

Yes it is the #15 fuse. I check for a short. Thanks. Is the #15 suppose to be a 7.5 or something else? There was a 15 amp in there.

Thanks

honda guy

7.5 amp

egzivic

I am going to guess the CEL code is #20 for the Electrical Load Sensor (ELD). Once you fix the electrical problem the code should go away.

z_lucas

I have the same problem. There is a little known Honda announcement/bulletin that states that the back of the alternator connector MUST be covered with dielectric grease to prevent elec. shorts. As to my alternator, I am taking it out tomorrow and having it bench tested as it refuses to put out any charge until the engine RPM reaches approx 3500-4000 then it puts out the required 14V (after that the system continues to charge regardless of the RPM).

Hey guys
That link/bulletin provided in one of the above messages is bang on. After taking the intake support I found 5 exposed wires which were rubbing/shorting out against the intake support, which generated all sorts of error codes. All it took was good quality electrical tape and corrugated plastic hose (type used to protect electrical wiring)...$5.50 in total. I found it difficult to remove the wiring harness of its bracket so I just worked on it as is...I did gain access from under the car (raise the car at least 14in to allow for working space). I insulated each affected wire individually with 0.5in piece of elec. tape then taped all the wires together and covered them with the plastic guard mentioned above and taped that over once more with elec tape. I did have to replace the alternator as the voltage reg was bad. Get this...I got another DNS alternator which I insisted on having bench tested...it was bad too. Two new DNS alternators bad out of the box!!! Stay away from their stuff. The store called up other sister stores which tested their civic DNS alternators...at least 2 other were dead. it looks like there is a bad batch of them out there. As far the alt. change goes, you don't have remove any drive line components. Instead, unbolt the alt (both bolts and then lift the alt with one hand and prop it against the fire wall. Then remove the bottom bracket and with a little bit of manual manipulation (alternator) the alt will slide out through the opening nearest to the fender....when reinstalling the alt, MAKE SURE to put dielectric grease on the back of the 3 or 4 pin connector (another Honda bulletin). replaced the fuses, reconnected the battery and drove the car for 5km....EVERYTHING WORKS GREAT (so far). Good luck

mini-me civic

i bet ur o2 sensor wires might be burnt.. does ur cluster light dim or your speedo is outta whack??

A-series

The alternator.

:10q:

It seems those who posted above are more knowledgeable.

However, I know of a case where a bad alternator did cause the fuse to blow - but it wasn't every 10 minutes. (non-Honda)