Ill read somehwhere that a stock fuel set-up is good for 275ish whp and somewhere ese that the stock set-up needs to be replaced no matter what boost you will be running.my goal at the very max is 250 whp.anyway, what kind of fuel set-up should i have to run a stock 5.5-7 psi now(310cc injectors), and maybe a 12ish psi later??? i want it to run like stock,etc.! what set-up will work? stock stuff? or after market fuel pump, and fpr?

 

b&m fpr with a walbro 255lph pump. whenever boosting or adding any type of additional power weather na or boost, you should always up grade fpr, fuel rail, and fuel pump.

 

Fuel rail is pointless.

FPR is almost pointless, unless you are running injectors that are way too small.

Fuel pump is always a good idea.

250whp on the Greddy kit on an automatic D-series ain't gunna happen, buddy.

 

hv fuel rails aren't pointless and neither are fpr's. makes it easier to tune and it is better then an fmu which i just found out.

 

The stock fuel rail can support up to 600hp. He won't get close to that, so I would say they are pretty worthless.

FPR's are another variable to be tuned, but should not ever take the place of real fuel management. If he plans on staying with the 310cc injectors (which I don't recommend; but I also don't recommend boosting anymore than he already is on an automatic tranny), the FPR will be needed because the injectors will max out very quickly.

 

im gonna swap the tranny out eventually by the way!

 

Still, trying to get 250 whp out of the Civic Greddy kit is going to be very difficult.

 

just to save some money..

Get a walbro 190lph rather than a 255lph.
DSM 450cc injectors. Theyre a dime adozen and wont max out as quick as 310s. I got mine for 50 bucks and still have another set of 4 for sale.

 

thanks,waht is the flow rate of a stock civic ex pump?

 

I reccommend a FPR for any boosted car that didn't come with it a turbo. The stock Honda regulator is okay, but won't hold up to the boost necessary for 200+ hp accurately. It needs to produce [your intake pressure at any given rpm] + 1 PSI of fuel at all times in order for your fuel maps to be manageable. I hate the B&M unit because you can't turn the pressure DOWN which is necessary with any pump bigger than the 190lph.

Aside from that, the stock filter's banjo fitting is a restrictive cross-drilled dickhole piece of crap. Don't worry about the rail being a restriction. When you get to ~220hp, that's more likely to cause problems than the rail.

The reason most people replace the rail is that they get to use -AN fittings to make plumbing an upgraded fuel system easier and more serviceable. The AEM rail can easily be fitted with -6AN fittings. It's pointless to upgrade the rail without upgrading the lines and filter, and using a quality regulator like an Aeromotive. If you do all that to a D-series, it had better be a show car. It doesn't cost much (~$350 to do it right), but you'll never use its potential without at least another 2.0L of displacement.