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-   -   DC sports header + o2 sensor relocation= check engine light. (https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/92-civic-el-and-del-sol/212581-dc-sports-header-o2-sensor-relocation-check-engine-light.html)

supapoopa 11-08-2005 10:03 PM

DC sports header + o2 sensor relocation= check engine light.
 
Just put it a dc sports header on a d16y8 and was wondering if anyone else as had or heard of problems when relocating the o2 sensor.

I keep getting the check engine light and the code comes up with an o2 sensor as being the problem. Anyone know what the problem might be? I had to extend the wiring since the original position of the o2 sensor was close to the front of the stock header and the DC sports header has it on the bottom towards the end (close to cat). The wires were smoldered together when extended the o2 sensor and everything was taped up and heat shrinked.

Could the o2 sensor be bad? Would relocating the o2 sensor farther down the header prompt the check engine light? Would an exhaust leak between the header and CAT (or rest of piping) trigger the engine light?


Kind of stuck on what to do. Any advice would be great. :)

'98 EX RED 11-09-2005 07:20 AM

I actually ahve the same issue, but my CEL goes on and off periodically, sometimes taking up to a week between phases. the code I got was "o2 sensor slow responce"...

supapoopa 11-09-2005 08:01 AM

Damn, so is this a common problem with DC header's? I have to deal with strict smog test sites, so i made sure that anything going on the cars engine had carb #'s so that is would be 'street legal.' :mad: But I wouldn't be able to pass a smog test if this pos is not going to work with my o2 sensor. :(


Any suggestions? Would the ceramic finish cause any problems if i needed to have the o2 housing rewelded? I've been told about o2 simulators? Would i be able to pass a smog test if it is possible to use this on my car?

Jafro 11-09-2005 08:17 AM

Most oxygen sensors require a very specific heat range. The location of the sensor has a lot to do with what they report because the closer to the head they are, the hotter they get. The heater circuits (or lack thereof) used on the sensors are relative to their location on the header. They maintain a specific heat range so the sensor can report accurately.

If you can get a bung welded to your header where your old sensor was located, all your problems will be over.

3rdgenlxi 11-09-2005 10:11 AM

^^ Hehehe - He said "Bung"


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