Can't shake my CEL
 

I'm trying to get rid of my CEL from a problem that I thought I fixed. I had the 95 civic DX that was throwing the IAT code 10. The sensor has been replaced and is brand new from Honda. I disconnected the battery and pulled the ECU fuse and it still comes back. Any suggestions?

wired wrong?

make sure
Red/Yel wire goes to D15 on the ECU and is not grounded with the IAT disconnected.
Grn/Wht wire goes to D22 of the ECU. (sensor ground)

other than that try a different ECU.

Colors are right, I double checked yesterday. Is it possible that the connector is upside down? Wouldn't fit that way would it? The ECU might not be happy with the way I had it wired before. IACV and IAT connectors switched.

the connector only goes in one way.
if you had them switched, a simple ECU reset (pull the fuse or battery) will fix it.

you said that the colors are right.... do those wires go to the ECU at the right place?

Right, if they are on the right pinouts, you need to make sure the wires don't have any breaks (check for continuity).

I'm using the same longblock as the one I replaced. My harness and ECU were untouched and are the same. How can I check for continuity? I guess it's about time to get a multimeter.

...try taking it it out of the dash.... then you can shake it all you want.... ::laughs:: i feel like being moronic today...mods can delete this post if they want.. it's kinda annoying isnt it?

the harness may have been bent enough to brake one of the wires when you pulled everything out. I'd check it out just in case. Multimeters are a must when working with electrical problems. for what you're doing a $200 Fluke meter is not needed, a $25 radio shack special will be fine. And IMO should a part of everyone's tool box.

I have my roomates meter out and I'm clueless. Where do I start for the circut I'm checking?

download the pin outs for the ECU here
that is looking into the ECU, or the back of the car's plugs.

Lets see if I can explain this... (I suck at explaining thigns like this, so forgive me) With the car off, and key out of the ignition.
Grab a metal paperclip and unbend it, then gently push it till it stops into C15 and set the meter to Ohms. Unplug the connector on the IAT and touch one probe of the meter to the Red/Yel's pin and the other probe to the paper clip. there should be 0 ohms or really close to it.
Do the same for the Grn/wht wire and C22 on the ECU.

If either of them read O.L. or open or lots of M ohms then double check your paper clip first. If you can't get any connnection... then there is the problem.