Ground Controls?
Anyone running Ground Control Coilovers with Tokico Illumina shocks?
How's it handle?
Ride (though as long as it's stiff it doesn't bug me)?
Also since the car will have a B series in it and seeing oval track/auto crossing, what kind of spring rates should I get guys?
How's it handle?
Ride (though as long as it's stiff it doesn't bug me)?
Also since the car will have a B series in it and seeing oval track/auto crossing, what kind of spring rates should I get guys?
Originally Posted by The G2 Racer
Anyone running Ground Control Coilovers with Tokico Illumina shocks?
How's it handle?
Ride (though as long as it's stiff it doesn't bug me)?
Also since the car will have a B series in it and seeing oval track/auto crossing, what kind of spring rates should I get guys?
How's it handle?
Ride (though as long as it's stiff it doesn't bug me)?
Also since the car will have a B series in it and seeing oval track/auto crossing, what kind of spring rates should I get guys?
well, I responded to the PM, but I'll post up the "abridged" version here for posterity.
I had illumina's with my stock springs... I have Konis and GC now. If you're planning on going with a higher spring rate (#400+), I'd go with the konis... They'll be able to meet the damping needs of a stiff spring better, and they'll last longer with those kinda loads. They also have a lifetime warranty, but I haven't figured out how to register yet :thinking:
The difference in weight between a D and B is roughly 60-80 pounds depending on motor and options etc... Ground Control will tell you thats not a big enough difference to need revised spring rates, but personally, if I hadn't already bought them, I'd bump the rates about #20 both front and rear. Ultimately though, the swap wont make a huge difference.
As for what spring rates, that depends on your driving style and needs. If you have a controlled, smooth driving style ("american school") then you'd benefit from higher rear spring rates. This means if you do all your braking in a straight line, smooth turn-in with no brakes, early throttle out. This is the way I drive, and most autocrossers will tell you to drive. In this case, a higher rear spring rate is appropriate to help rotate the car. I have 380f/400r, civicsiracer has 350f/400r. Some more dedicated track guys run the rates up into the 500-600+ range, but that'll require better (and more expensive) shocks, and really is beter for track, not so hot for autocross. I'd suggest a ratio of roughly 100f:120r, the rates are up to you.
If your driving style involves more mid-corner braking adjustmen, late braking, fast entry speeds and later power out ("japanese school") you'll want a higher front spring rate. The act of braking mid-corner and late braking encourages rotation (and most autoXers will tell you isn't the fastest way around). The higher front rate will keep the car stable while you toss it around. Try this with a high rear rate, and you're liable to spin off the track. For this type of driving style, I'd suggest a ratio of roughly 120f:100r.
How high you want your rates to be depends on what kinda shocks you're running, and what kinda streetability compromises you're willing to make.
:edit: I guess that wasn't very "abridged"
hfawk:
:edit: :edit: The rates you chose also depends on what other suspension mods you have. I, for instance, have a relatively tame f/r ratio because my rear swaybar is fatter than my front. civicsiracer's f/r ratio is a little more tailhappy, but he's running the dinky stock rear Si swaybar... So there are other factors to take into consideration.
I had illumina's with my stock springs... I have Konis and GC now. If you're planning on going with a higher spring rate (#400+), I'd go with the konis... They'll be able to meet the damping needs of a stiff spring better, and they'll last longer with those kinda loads. They also have a lifetime warranty, but I haven't figured out how to register yet :thinking:
The difference in weight between a D and B is roughly 60-80 pounds depending on motor and options etc... Ground Control will tell you thats not a big enough difference to need revised spring rates, but personally, if I hadn't already bought them, I'd bump the rates about #20 both front and rear. Ultimately though, the swap wont make a huge difference.
As for what spring rates, that depends on your driving style and needs. If you have a controlled, smooth driving style ("american school") then you'd benefit from higher rear spring rates. This means if you do all your braking in a straight line, smooth turn-in with no brakes, early throttle out. This is the way I drive, and most autocrossers will tell you to drive. In this case, a higher rear spring rate is appropriate to help rotate the car. I have 380f/400r, civicsiracer has 350f/400r. Some more dedicated track guys run the rates up into the 500-600+ range, but that'll require better (and more expensive) shocks, and really is beter for track, not so hot for autocross. I'd suggest a ratio of roughly 100f:120r, the rates are up to you.
If your driving style involves more mid-corner braking adjustmen, late braking, fast entry speeds and later power out ("japanese school") you'll want a higher front spring rate. The act of braking mid-corner and late braking encourages rotation (and most autoXers will tell you isn't the fastest way around). The higher front rate will keep the car stable while you toss it around. Try this with a high rear rate, and you're liable to spin off the track. For this type of driving style, I'd suggest a ratio of roughly 120f:100r.
How high you want your rates to be depends on what kinda shocks you're running, and what kinda streetability compromises you're willing to make.
:edit: I guess that wasn't very "abridged"
hfawk::edit: :edit: The rates you chose also depends on what other suspension mods you have. I, for instance, have a relatively tame f/r ratio because my rear swaybar is fatter than my front. civicsiracer's f/r ratio is a little more tailhappy, but he's running the dinky stock rear Si swaybar... So there are other factors to take into consideration.
Originally Posted by Solracer
I would start with like 300front and 550 rear.
I think so too. Too extreme especially such a different bias.
I would go for 350f/400r and I think Tokicos will not hold up. I had Tokico Illuminas with Skunkworks (back before Skunk2) coilovers on them. Shocks blew in like 3 months. Spend the extra money and get the Koni Yellows.
I would go for 350f/400r and I think Tokicos will not hold up. I had Tokico Illuminas with Skunkworks (back before Skunk2) coilovers on them. Shocks blew in like 3 months. Spend the extra money and get the Koni Yellows.
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when the hell did u get a car?