hmm....one thing I would check right now is the output voltage of the TPS. At closed throttle it should be like 0.5v, and at WOT it should be 4.5V. Check that just to make sure your getting a good reading, and also make sure the voltage increases linearly, not that there are spikes as you increase the throttle angle. If the voltage is off, you can actually adjust your TPS by slotting those rivets that hold the tps onto the TB and rotating the TPS. I believe the middle wire is the sensor output wire on the plug.

Other sensor that I have found to cause that sort of mysterious bogging would be the IAT, and the knock sensor, if you happen to have a spare one laying around it might be worth a shot to swap out. I don't believe the ecu makes any major corrections based on ECT but I could be wrong. But I do know the IAT and the knock sensor have correction tables.

One thing to keep in mind is, sometimes when you have a bad solder joint, the continuity of the joint will deteriorate with respect to temp. For example I have had a bad solder joint on my IAT wire and I would throw an IAT code every time the car warmed up, I couldn't find the problem for months till I realized that it could be the joint itself. Just a few things to keep in mind while troubleshooting.

If I think of anything else I will post, sorry I am in the middle of studying for a big exam,

Oh yeah I forgot, you can use mostly any honda TPS off of any car, so I would suggest you go find yourself the cheapest TB and pull the TPS off that.