TECH: Car setup basics
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Originally posted by forcedinduction
Any answer to my FWD caster question?
Any answer to my FWD caster question?
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Re: Re: Re: Re: TECH: Car setup basics
Originally posted by forcedinduction
You say that neither one is entirely bad, but you make it sound like that one would prefer more a more positive caster angle than a negative one, correct? Also, at what point does too much positive caster hurt a FWD car? I've seen most FWD cars to have a stock spec of about +2-2.5* while other RWD cars like the 240SX and Porsche 914 are blessed with as much as +6-7*!
You say that neither one is entirely bad, but you make it sound like that one would prefer more a more positive caster angle than a negative one, correct? Also, at what point does too much positive caster hurt a FWD car? I've seen most FWD cars to have a stock spec of about +2-2.5* while other RWD cars like the 240SX and Porsche 914 are blessed with as much as +6-7*!
Now, the reason for so much rear caster on a rear wheel drive is because the chassis can use it more. The power is delivered at the rear wheels, so the more cross weight you can get to the wheel, the harder you're going to force the tire to work in your favor. Obviously this has some limits, but that's the basic principle. On a FWD car, obviously the power is not delivered at the rear wheels, so you really only need to get enough weight transfer to keep the rear of the car predictable. It's all about weight transfer and cross-weights for corner entry.
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: TECH: Car setup basics
Originally posted by 1stGenCRXer
Now, the reason for so much rear caster on a rear wheel drive is because ...
Now, the reason for so much rear caster on a rear wheel drive is because ...
So if I understand you correctly, the MORE caster you have (more being greater than 0 weather it be positive or negative) the MORE weight transfer you will have (theoretically speaking of course)? Sorry for dragging it out, but I would really like to understand this concept. Thank you for taking the time to explain it to me.
-Andrew
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: TECH: Car setup basics
Originally posted by forcedinduction
The numbers I was talking about are off the front of the car, not the rear.
The numbers I was talking about are off the front of the car, not the rear.
So if I understand you correctly, the MORE caster you have (more being greater than 0 weather it be positive or negative) the MORE weight transfer you will have (theoretically speaking of course)?
Sorry for dragging it out, but I would really like to understand this concept. Thank you for taking the time to explain it to me.
-Andrew
-Andrew
#17
More basic suspension info, please!
Thanks for doing this. Us newbies appreciate it.
For lowered cars, is it safe to assume that some type of adjustable camber plate is being used? Or better still, what is a typical ride height that would not require camber plates?
Thx,
Erik
For lowered cars, is it safe to assume that some type of adjustable camber plate is being used? Or better still, what is a typical ride height that would not require camber plates?
Thx,
Erik
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The buffer safe zone for most Hondas are 1.5-2.0" where you do not need a camber kit. ONe thing that will affect wear too is toe. Too much drop and if I remember right your car will toe in, that will cause tire wear just as bad as bad camber.
I've been dropped 2" for over a year and my tires have worn nicely. But I also autocross on them frequently scrubbing the outsides too.
I've been dropped 2" for over a year and my tires have worn nicely. But I also autocross on them frequently scrubbing the outsides too.
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Originally posted by erik99
Thanks for the info.
Congrats on your Nationals win. I saw your car in Grassroots
Motorsports, right?
Thanks for the info.
Congrats on your Nationals win. I saw your car in Grassroots
Motorsports, right?
But yes my car was in GRM blue Civic Si.
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