dchung1

i want to get a jrsc for 94 integra gsr becuase greddy doesnt make a kit for this year thats smog legal.

so jrsc is next for FI i guess

just wondering though becuase i want the car to be reliable for hpde events 30 min sessions and street. anyone have problems during events/?? thanks

i want to try something different than NA setups

also be using stock boost, and get it tuned.

if you are having problems what did you do to resolve it thanks

mtbprelude

Locally there are 2 JRSC civics doing HPDEs. One of them was dyno'd before and after a track session. Before the session the car made IIRC substantially MORE hp, than after the session. This was attributed to heat soak.

I have a friend in CT who had a JRSC 5gen Prelude. He said that after anything more than 20-25 minutes, it was useless as a power adder.

jaje

i used to drive my protege5 wagon with a t3 intercooled turbo...one thing you'll quickly notice is that your suspension and brakes will not be up to the task and especially if you have some sticky track day or high performance summer tires

if you are running stock brakes prepare to bleed them after each 20 minute session - it'll boil even dot4 fluid as you will be on the binders for much longer to slow the car's higher speed

i eventually got tired of tearing up pads and rotors and bought a wilwood 4 piston caliper set and the differenence was amazing...i took off 5 seconds as summit point just with those as i was much more confident under brakes and would brake deeper into corners as my apprehension faded

dchung1

i use race pads cobalt friction and they hold up well for the track. with ate blue.

dchung1

ill have to invest in the cooling system for the jrsc .. i have to go jrsc route becuase greddy doesnt make a smog legal kit for 94-95 integra gsr.. only jrsc does.. i dont want to go NA really again. but we'll see.

jaje

you mean with normal propulsion (meaning bolt ons only)? adding 50+ whp/wtq makes it a completely different ballgame

when i'd run my wagon with just 4 lbs (about +50 extra hp) and i had race pads (performance friction) and some good blanks with ate fluid and ss lines i'd have brake problems...when i'd turn it up to 7-8lbs (~190whp and ~205wtq) my stock brakes just couldn't handle it...what made the difference was upgrading the rotor to 11.2 inch from 10.5 inch and thickness from .53 mm to .85 (mazda rx7 size) made the biggest difference as the brakes could effectively cool themselves...i'd literally be running high 130 mph straights into a very tight turn one at summit point