Johnny B

I am building my Civic for AutoX handling.....Not Strip.

For start My car is:

1994 Honda 4dr Civic Lx w/abs
(Has all wheel disc brakes like si)

Add ons Right Now:

Ground Controls and Tokico
Ingalls Camber kits all 4 wheels
F+R Upper Neuspeed Strut bars
F+R Lower Neuspeed Tie Bars
EBC Dimpled Rotors
EBC Green Stuff Pads
Goodridge G-stop Brakes lines
15" Tenzo Sinko rims
Yokohama AVS Tires...

Soon to be:

Tokico or Tein ss Full coilover kit
SPC Rear lower control arms
Comptech rear sway bar/tie bar combo (for integ)
Progress Front Sway Bar
Rota 16x7 Slipstreams
Yokohama Parada Spec 2
some other stuff I'm sure.......

For my engine:

I don't know.....Debating...

I don't want to build it completely..internally

Right now it is the H22....(I know)...But that seems like a challange..and I like challanges......

The thread about Myths of the H22 in the Engines forum...Has changed my mind about that engine.....Thats why I want it.



I will be adding the basic add ons I/H/E and externals Cam Gears/Pulleys/Fuel Pump/Fuel Rail/Fuel pressure Regulator/fuel injectors


BUT I'M looking to advice from people with experience....

Please let me know....

thanks

Scott

CivicSiRacer

Well leaving the car as is right now you would be great for STS. Adding the SPC lower control arms might bump you to Street Mod. Adding the swap or the externals (cam gears, fuel pump, fuel rail and injectors) will definitely bump you into SM which is a HARD class if your car is a daily driver without pure DOT R tires. Guys in this class spend lots of $$$ for a few 1/10ths of a second. If you don't mind you will be humbled GREATLY!

As we all say leave your car as it is and work on the driver. Too many people think that mods will make their car faster, but this is only true after your have worked out the bugs on your driving skills. Plus your times will only drop by 1/10ths of a second compared to fixing the driver where you can drop 4-8 seconds.

Plus mods make it more confusing for a novice instead of just having to deal with air pressures and the driver, now with all these mods you have to worry about: shock compression, shock rebound, too much camber, not enough toe, stiffer springs, stiffer or softer sway bars, etc.... When you just have to worry about the driver you know your times are good or bad because of YOU

Read my sig help page for more info.

white_n_slow

best engine for autocross = stock... unless youre bored and masochistic like me. :exnbp:

Like CivicSiRacer said, you've got a pretty good STS setup now (or at least after the swaybars), and you could be a very competitive racer if your driving skills are up to the task.

If you plan on autocrossing, and would like to move into Mod (or just definitely want to swap) H-series is too heavy, and really its just overkill in terms of power.

I know I want to swap because my vx motor is very old and dying and I'm bored with 90 hp. I raced stock for 2 seasons and STS for one season. Personally, after a lot of thought, I've decided that the B20 is the way to go for me. The main reason here is that you'll use a wide, torquey powerband more than just high-end power since you (or maybe just me h: ) cant really concentrate on keeping the engine on boil in such a restricted (time and space) situation. I hope to do either a B20z, or B20B with a little bump in compression. If youre going Mod anyway, also invest in a limited slip. I can feel how one would work wonders for me even with my pitiful vx power.

Its an expensive and pain-in-the-ass road, and in the end, you might just end up being beaten by a bunch of experienced drivers with deep wallets. So unless youre sure, I'd stick with what you've got. :thumbup:

:edit: I'd also suggest that you keep your GCs rather than paying for full c/o's. Main reason here, is its CHEAPER, you have more options (replacement springs in any spring rate are only $50), and its easier to replace a part of the system rather than the whole damn thing if something breaks.

If your tokicos die, buy Koni Yellows. I used to race on illuminas, which were pretty good, but the Yellows are just awesome in comparison.

Johnny B

My Ground Controls are the Special Edition....That fit any strut....I heard these GC's suck....

Can you get replacement Springs for them?

And my Tokico's are blown on the right side...So I need to replace them.....But if the GC's I have suck it would be cheaper for me to buy Tokico Full coilover or Tein SS....So I think.

rick

I agree with the both above advice. After keeping my car stock for 4 years and autoxing with it on and off for the past 2 years. I finally got new shocks and I was able to drop 2 seconds. But that is after I've explored the limit of the car and my ability to take it to the limit.

$1200bucks for 2 seconds is not bad but I should be able to get faster from here. Time to work on the driver again.

white_n_slow

Call ground control. Replacement springs are $50/spring if you already have the perches--any spring rate you want. If they fit any strut, then whats the problem... where'd you hear they suck? Almost everybody I know of who has them is perfectly satisfied (myself included). I'd replace the blown tokicos with Koni Yellows and move on. Do you really want to pay $800+ for coilovers and find that you don't like the balance? Find out how you want the car to handle FIRST, then get the appropriate spring rates... couldn't be easier.

CivicSiRacer

I've found that if you can get within .5 seconds of the top runners in your class then you can mod something else OR stay in top 10 in PAX consistently. Both which are hard to do.

I finally started doing this when I attended my first Evolution School in Philly. http://www.autocross.com/evolution

importsyn

I talked to a well seasoned autoXer with a 93 Si hatch tha has a GSR swap and he liked his SOHC VTEC motor better (for autocross).He says that the GSR is about 200lbs heavier and all that weight is in front of the shocks maing it nose heavy.He's really had to play with spring combinations to find one that works with that motor.I think he said he's running 800lbs in the front and 11or1200lbs in the rear.It's a pretty sick car,all gutted,roll cage,engine work,etc.I've been in his car and I've never felt anything like it.I hope this helps you out a bit.I'm not saying to forget about engine swapping,but just offering you some insight or perspective on the matter.