94 Prelude H23a to H22a Conversion
06-13-2003, 04:25 AM
#11
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After looking for 4 hours, I found the 2 wires! After almost unplugging everything, I found the ground terminal under the thermostat housing. I just forgot to put it under a bolt when I installed the engine. I was able to drive the car after putting everything back together.
Where do you get 2 pins to plug into the ECU connectors for the VTEC and Sensor? I might have to get an old plug from a junk yard and butcher it for 2 pins.
Thanks 92h22a4!
Where do you get 2 pins to plug into the ECU connectors for the VTEC and Sensor? I might have to get an old plug from a junk yard and butcher it for 2 pins.
Thanks 92h22a4!
06-13-2003, 09:57 AM
#12
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Thanks for EVERYBODY's HELP. The H23 to H22 wasn't too bad!
If anyone else is doing the swap, I also had to change the front exhaust pipe. It goes from the jdm H22 Header to the cat. be sure to have one of these already or else you'll have to buy the pipe from an exhaust vendor. The H23 front pipe does not match the H22's header at all.
Anybody needing assistance, please e-mail me.
Shelbydogg@aol.com
If anyone else is doing the swap, I also had to change the front exhaust pipe. It goes from the jdm H22 Header to the cat. be sure to have one of these already or else you'll have to buy the pipe from an exhaust vendor. The H23 front pipe does not match the H22's header at all.
Anybody needing assistance, please e-mail me.
Shelbydogg@aol.com
06-13-2003, 08:49 PM
#13
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Phew, all sounds a bit over my head, but one thing I can contribute: don't get mixed up, a header is the combination of the downpipe and the a-pipe, what you meant to say is that the a different a-pipe was needed to connect the H22 downpipe to the cat-converter, lol, see, I'm smart too.
06-16-2003, 04:33 PM
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u will not have ANY vtec with the h23a1 ecu
the car will also not rev past 6500ish rpm
and will also not have very much power above 4500 rpms
im pretty sure you need a separate tranny ecu for the automatic transmission...
did u jump the obd1 service connector and extract the code from the ecu or you just saw the light was on and left it alone?
chances are it is something stupid and im willing to bet the ecu is fine.
an auto h22a will be extemely quick, prob not as quick as a 5 spd for lack of better gearing (4 spd auto)
but damn fast for an automatic 4 cyclinder, like low 15's or high 14's, 1/4 mile depending on tires.
~boomer
the car will also not rev past 6500ish rpm
and will also not have very much power above 4500 rpms
im pretty sure you need a separate tranny ecu for the automatic transmission...
did u jump the obd1 service connector and extract the code from the ecu or you just saw the light was on and left it alone?
chances are it is something stupid and im willing to bet the ecu is fine.
an auto h22a will be extemely quick, prob not as quick as a 5 spd for lack of better gearing (4 spd auto)
but damn fast for an automatic 4 cyclinder, like low 15's or high 14's, 1/4 mile depending on tires.
~boomer
06-30-2003, 06:56 AM
#15
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Everything in one post.
I had an e-mail from a user that couldn't understand all of the posts. From all of the posts above, I've put everything into one.
The rewiring of the distributor was only needed for the ACCORD swap. The H23 to H22 swap didn't need any pin mods at the distributor. I'm told that the car is EXTREMELY FAST and gets 3rd gear scratch!
1. use the h231 distributor and the external coil: It plugs right in to the stock harness WITHOUT ANY PIN CHANGES. The 2 external coil brackets are available from Majestic Honda for about $20.00 here. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=IGNITION+COIL
2. use the h23a1 fuel rail and lines: I took the fuel rail off of the H23, and swapped it with the H22 to get the Fuel line to hook up.I also swapped any emission valves on the intake, to match the original wiring
3. use the P-13-AUTO ecu, if you are using an Atomatic like me. We got if from a dealer here for $175.00.
4. run 2 wires to the ECU. The end of the 1st wire goes to A4 on the ECU and the other end goes to the VTEC solenoid. The second wire goes from the ECU, pin D6, to the oil pressure sensor on the vtec head. The 3rd BLACK left over wire on the pressure switch, goes right to the engine block for a ground. We had to buy 2 different style pins to crimp on the wire ends to plug into the ECU, from the Honda dealer. The Check engine light was on till I added the 2 wires with the new ECU, but was able to drive the car, WITHOUT THE VTEC WORKING, with the old ECU.
5. I had to change the front radiator hose neck, because the JDM one didn't have the extra temp sensor.
6. Had to change the front exhaust pipe to hookup the exhaust.
7. The VTEC has a 6 groove pulley, the h23 had 5, so either use thinner belt or swap the pulleys.
The rewiring of the distributor was only needed for the ACCORD swap. The H23 to H22 swap didn't need any pin mods at the distributor. I'm told that the car is EXTREMELY FAST and gets 3rd gear scratch!
1. use the h231 distributor and the external coil: It plugs right in to the stock harness WITHOUT ANY PIN CHANGES. The 2 external coil brackets are available from Majestic Honda for about $20.00 here. http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=IGNITION+COIL
2. use the h23a1 fuel rail and lines: I took the fuel rail off of the H23, and swapped it with the H22 to get the Fuel line to hook up.I also swapped any emission valves on the intake, to match the original wiring
3. use the P-13-AUTO ecu, if you are using an Atomatic like me. We got if from a dealer here for $175.00.
4. run 2 wires to the ECU. The end of the 1st wire goes to A4 on the ECU and the other end goes to the VTEC solenoid. The second wire goes from the ECU, pin D6, to the oil pressure sensor on the vtec head. The 3rd BLACK left over wire on the pressure switch, goes right to the engine block for a ground. We had to buy 2 different style pins to crimp on the wire ends to plug into the ECU, from the Honda dealer. The Check engine light was on till I added the 2 wires with the new ECU, but was able to drive the car, WITHOUT THE VTEC WORKING, with the old ECU.
5. I had to change the front radiator hose neck, because the JDM one didn't have the extra temp sensor.
6. Had to change the front exhaust pipe to hookup the exhaust.
7. The VTEC has a 6 groove pulley, the h23 had 5, so either use thinner belt or swap the pulleys.
08-08-2003, 07:40 PM
#16
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The h22a auto prelude
The kid that I sold the car to lost control of the car and rolled it. Everytime I talked to him, he told me how fast the car was since I put that engine in for him. The whole thing was totalled except for the doors and wheels.
I just bought the whole Prelude Si with the JDM H22a for $1500. I kept the engine and interior and cut the rest of the car up and threw it in a dumpster at work. I also just bought a '93 Black Prelude Vtec with a knocking engine for $2500. So it looks like a busy weekend. This JDM H22a is going back into another 5spd Prelude.
Shelbydogg@aol.com
I just bought the whole Prelude Si with the JDM H22a for $1500. I kept the engine and interior and cut the rest of the car up and threw it in a dumpster at work. I also just bought a '93 Black Prelude Vtec with a knocking engine for $2500. So it looks like a busy weekend. This JDM H22a is going back into another 5spd Prelude.
Shelbydogg@aol.com