Rear caliper replacement - Honda-Acura.net

mason rocket · 11-17-09, 09:54 AM

My left rear rotor is worn uneven. There is 3/4 inch of rust on the outer radius because the pad is not contacting. I think the caliper is bad. I just replaced the rotors and pads within the last year also. Wanna fix this before my pad and rotor goes too far gone. Is there anything difficult about replacing a rear caliper on disk brakes? Should just be remove and replace then bleed right?

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themonsteraria · 11-17-09, 10:04 AM

Pretty easy. Remove pads, remove 2 bolts holding on caliper, remove caliper, replace with new caliper, torque bolts holding on caliper to 90lbs(I may be wrong here on the exact torque specs). Attach brake lines, bleed brake system.

brettybaby · 11-28-09, 08:02 PM

I have seen this happen before; make sure your piston has a good seal on the caliper with no cracks breaks or rubber bushing damage. I was able to get a rebuilt caliper cheap at a autoparts store. cheaper than rebuilding it myself

Civic2Scooby · 11-30-09, 01:56 AM

are you sure its the caliper going bad? Sounds more to me like improperly lubricated slide pins or rusted/improperly cleaned spring clips.

Redline96LX · 12-02-09, 01:58 AM

wrong fix!

If you are getting SOME pad contact, the calper is okay. If you get rust everywhere, the caliper could be seized. If its dragging and the car feels like its locked, it could be seizing as well. But if you are getting partial contact, take the caliper off with two bolts and push the pedal. watch it move out, and the caliper is good. The problem is that the pad and rotor are not getting correct contact. Either the pad is worn unevenly, or the rotor is warped.

here is a common problem. The rear pad has a "notch" like a little cylinder on it. The piston has a + shape, and that notch goes into the piston's +. The + is recessed, and when you rotate the piston (you can use a metal file or large screwdriver rather than renting the OEM tool), it simply has to be perpendicular, meaning the + has to point up and sideways, so not like an X. if the piston was turned during a brake job and on the wrong way, the pad's notch won't sit in it, and thus will contact at a severe angle. Eventually this will wear the other side of the disc too. So check that, as that is more common than a seizing caliper.

11-17-09, 10:04 AM	#2
themonsteraria Sphincter paralysis Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Slippery Rock, PA Posts: 296	Pretty easy. Remove pads, remove 2 bolts holding on caliper, remove caliper, replace with new caliper, torque bolts holding on caliper to 90lbs(I may be wrong here on the exact torque specs). Attach brake lines, bleed brake system. __________________ "Enjoy your egg whites" ---Pam Landy (The Borne Ultimatum) Cars (past and present): 09 Accord EX-L, 02 Accord SE(R.I.P) , 98 Civic LX, 95 Civic LX, 92 Accord LX (crashed), 90 Subaru Loyale (dying), 86 Jetta diesel (Oh tranny, where art thou?)

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11-28-09, 08:02 PM	#3
brettybaby Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Posts: 153	I have seen this happen before; make sure your piston has a good seal on the caliper with no cracks breaks or rubber bushing damage. I was able to get a rebuilt caliper cheap at a autoparts store. cheaper than rebuilding it myself

12-02-09, 01:58 AM	#5
Redline96LX Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004 Posts: 34	wrong fix! If you are getting SOME pad contact, the calper is okay. If you get rust everywhere, the caliper could be seized. If its dragging and the car feels like its locked, it could be seizing as well. But if you are getting partial contact, take the caliper off with two bolts and push the pedal. watch it move out, and the caliper is good. The problem is that the pad and rotor are not getting correct contact. Either the pad is worn unevenly, or the rotor is warped. here is a common problem. The rear pad has a "notch" like a little cylinder on it. The piston has a + shape, and that notch goes into the piston's +. The + is recessed, and when you rotate the piston (you can use a metal file or large screwdriver rather than renting the OEM tool), it simply has to be perpendicular, meaning the + has to point up and sideways, so not like an X. if the piston was turned during a brake job and on the wrong way, the pad's notch won't sit in it, and thus will contact at a severe angle. Eventually this will wear the other side of the disc too. So check that, as that is more common than a seizing caliper.