Oil brand preferences - Page 2 - Honda-Acura.net

themonsteraria · 10-29-09, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CivicSiRacer

I get the click style torque wrench. Get one that goes from 1-80ft/lbs. 80ft/lbs for the lugs. Never heard of micro-torque. I make sure to use my torque wrench for everything since I'm really ANAL about things.

The Micro-torque is just Craftsman's brand of the click style. I always buy Craftsman, because I work at Sears... a.k.a. I get a discount.

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themonsteraria · 10-29-09, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white_n_slow

I use valvoline dino oil because it's free at my buddy's shop. Never had a problem and will probably never run synthetic again unless I get I build a new motor for myself.

Why do you say you'll never run synthetic again? Previous problems with synthetic?

white_n_slow · 10-29-09, 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by themonsteraria

Why do you say you'll never run synthetic again? Previous problems with synthetic?

My old volvo had synthetic most of its life and leaked a pretty significant amount of oil. Honestly, its was probably just the age of the car, but it did get pretty expensive throwing in a couple quarts between oil changes. I've just never seen a difference performance-wise between dino oil and synthetic. Also never seen a noticeable difference in wear in motors I've seen torn down (saabs). Throw in the fact that I can get valvoline for free, and I'm done.

**CivicSiRacer** · 10-29-09, 12:27 PM

Ah the days of getting free oil. I finally used up/sold all the free cases of Valvoline oil I won from the Valvoline Cup Time Trials from 2002-2006

Had like 50 cases stacked along my wall.

themonsteraria · 10-29-09, 01:36 PM

Ah great. Now I find out I'm the only one paying for oil. Never felt like such a major noob until just now.

themonsteraria · 10-29-09, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white_n_slow

My old volvo had synthetic most of its life and leaked a pretty significant amount of oil. Honestly, its was probably just the age of the car, but it did get pretty expensive throwing in a couple quarts between oil changes. I've just never seen a difference performance-wise between dino oil and synthetic. Also never seen a noticeable difference in wear in motors I've seen torn down (saabs). Throw in the fact that I can get valvoline for free, and I'm done.

Ya, see, that's what I'm scared of: Oil leaks developing because I switch to synthetic after having so many miles on the motor.

**CivicSiRacer** · 10-29-09, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by themonsteraria

Ah great. Now I find out I'm the only one paying for oil. Never felt like such a major noob until just now.

Well I've been autocrossing for 12 years. Competitively for 10. So winning races definitely has it's priveldges

Actually won a crate of oil from Mobil 1 back in 2002 or 2003, when I was Ride of the Month in September

If that makes you feel any better. LOL.

Civic2Scooby · 10-30-09, 02:27 PM

I recently had to start paying for oil again too, I used to get mobil 1 sythetic for free from work, now alas I have to buy it. I ran synth when it was free, but honestly I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles so Dino oil should be just fine.

Line7 · 10-30-09, 03:14 PM

I used to put regular Castrol 10W-40. Now I got a new engine, and the guy who sold it to me says he always used Royal Purple 10W30 synthetic and a bottle Restore lubricant and restorer with each oil change, the guy swears by this stuff, so I guess thats what Im gonna be using from now on.

eg6lover · 11-05-09, 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white_n_slow

My old volvo had synthetic most of its life and leaked a pretty significant amount of oil. Honestly, its was probably just the age of the car, but it did get pretty expensive throwing in a couple quarts between oil changes. I've just never seen a difference performance-wise between dino oil and synthetic. Also never seen a noticeable difference in wear in motors I've seen torn down (saabs). Throw in the fact that I can get valvoline for free, and I'm done.

On my CIVIC's B16A2, approx 60k miles, I kept regular Honda 5W30 oil. I changed my G35's oil to Sythetic and Lucas engine lubricator fluid. My G started to leak of the oil.

I'm just going to keep my HONDA with regular Honda engine oil.

Thrule01 · 11-12-09, 04:52 PM

since i have been changing my own oil ive only used mobile-1 and havent had any issues...

mattc28 · 11-13-09, 06:00 PM

I have a 94 civic EX with a d16 vtec in it, and it has 200,000 miles... I use castrol gtx 5w30, change it every 2500-3000 miles and i don't beat the piss out of it, but i can honestly say i put it up at redline getting on the highway or just when im bored.. the car seems to love it. If your motor is stock and is running correctly you shouldnt have problems unless your sitting at redline for 5 minutes... or do a 5th to 3rd downshift going 90 on the highway...
If your car has been given the same oil it's whole life so far with no issues, why change now?

jlu.built · 11-18-09, 11:58 AM

I usually run Royal purple( especially when i was getting a qt for $5 at some shop i used to work at) the last shop i worked at i used valvoline synthetic because i used to get free oil changes so i went with the best oil we had. And to me they both ran the same, never burned oil and im in constant high rpms. By the way its on a stock jdm b16 block and semi-built head making 171whp on a dynojet!!

now on the track car( allmotor K) we going to be using amsoil..

themonsteraria · 11-18-09, 12:57 PM

Ya, I'm just going to stick with the GTX High Mileage. It totally fixed my oil usage problems. Plus, I had the valve cover off recently, and it looks like it cleaned my head a little.

con · 12-04-09, 05:43 PM

Kind of an old thread, but...

I would also recommend using regular dino oil in your case. My EJ7 is at 188k miles and have used nothing but dino (5w-30). NO problems thus far. I usually change at 4-5k miles. IF you are looking to change to synthetic, I would recommend Amsoil, RP, Redline. I am not too keen on Mobil1. Stuff always seemed to burn quicker than the other synthetics. One reason might be that it is very thin compared to a comparable weight oil. I usually get RP, because it's readily available. Amsoil is great, too. One thing you might want to do is a UOA (used oil analysis). Blackstone Labs does it for ~$20. It's like a urine test for your engine and it will tell you what kind of shape your engine is in. Highly recommended.

As far as filters, OEM/Fram/PureOne are all about the same (if you look at the internals). If you're running dino and will be changing out the filter at every oil change, then just get the cheapest one (this is what I have done with my EJ7). However, if you're running synthetic and will be doing extended oil change intervals, I'd say get something a bit better. My personal preferences are, either Amsoil Ea or NAPA Gold (made by Wix). The downside to Amsoil is $$ (I believe $15?), whereas the NAPA Gold is ~$6. Very quality filters.

10-29-09, 12:27 PM	#34
CivicSiRacer Honorary Moderator Alumni Join Date: Sep 1999 Location: Someplace with cones=AUTO Posts: 8,663	Ah the days of getting free oil. I finally used up/sold all the free cases of Valvoline oil I won from the Valvoline Cup Time Trials from 2002-2006 Had like 50 cases stacked along my wall. __________________ Sponsored by: KAM Racing Sports, Falken Tires, Progress Technology, Brady's High Performance, Taggart Performance Engineering, Rotora Brakes Autocross is: 90% driver, 5% car, & 5% CRAZY MOJO! Autocross Help Page

10-30-09, 03:14 PM	#39
Line7 Platinum Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NY Posts: 941	I used to put regular Castrol 10W-40. Now I got a new engine, and the guy who sold it to me says he always used Royal Purple 10W30 synthetic and a bottle Restore lubricant and restorer with each oil change, the guy swears by this stuff, so I guess thats what Im gonna be using from now on. __________________ For Sale: ITR/SiR rear LCA's JDM!!!

11-12-09, 04:52 PM	#41
Thrule01 Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Abbeville/Lafayette, LA Posts: 28	since i have been changing my own oil ive only used mobile-1 and havent had any issues... __________________ http://www.bestimportcarinsurace.com

11-18-09, 11:58 AM	#43
jlu.built 350whp NA!! Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Bossier City, La Posts: 10	I usually run Royal purple( especially when i was getting a qt for $5 at some shop i used to work at) the last shop i worked at i used valvoline synthetic because i used to get free oil changes so i went with the best oil we had. And to me they both ran the same, never burned oil and im in constant high rpms. By the way its on a stock jdm b16 block and semi-built head making 171whp on a dynojet!! now on the track car( allmotor K) we going to be using amsoil.. Last edited by jlu.built; 11-18-09 at 12:01 PM.

11-18-09, 12:57 PM	#44
themonsteraria Sphincter paralysis Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Slippery Rock, PA Posts: 339	Ya, I'm just going to stick with the GTX High Mileage. It totally fixed my oil usage problems. Plus, I had the valve cover off recently, and it looks like it cleaned my head a little. __________________ "Enjoy your egg whites" ---Pam Landy (The Borne Ultimatum) Cars (past and present): 09 Accord EX-L, 02 Accord SE(R.I.P) , 98 Civic LX, 95 Civic LX, 92 Accord LX (crashed), 90 Subaru Loyale (dying), 86 Jetta diesel (Oh tranny, where art thou?)

10-29-09, 01:36 PM	#35
themonsteraria Sphincter paralysis Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Slippery Rock, PA Posts: 339	Ah great. Now I find out I'm the only one paying for oil. Never felt like such a major noob until just now.

11-13-09, 06:00 PM	#42
mattc28 Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Boston, MA Posts: 121	I have a 94 civic EX with a d16 vtec in it, and it has 200,000 miles... I use castrol gtx 5w30, change it every 2500-3000 miles and i don't beat the piss out of it, but i can honestly say i put it up at redline getting on the highway or just when im bored.. the car seems to love it. If your motor is stock and is running correctly you shouldnt have problems unless your sitting at redline for 5 minutes... or do a 5th to 3rd downshift going 90 on the highway... If your car has been given the same oil it's whole life so far with no issues, why change now?

12-04-09, 05:43 PM	#45
con Khan Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Utah Posts: 50	Kind of an old thread, but... I would also recommend using regular dino oil in your case. My EJ7 is at 188k miles and have used nothing but dino (5w-30). NO problems thus far. I usually change at 4-5k miles. IF you are looking to change to synthetic, I would recommend Amsoil, RP, Redline. I am not too keen on Mobil1. Stuff always seemed to burn quicker than the other synthetics. One reason might be that it is very thin compared to a comparable weight oil. I usually get RP, because it's readily available. Amsoil is great, too. One thing you might want to do is a UOA (used oil analysis). Blackstone Labs does it for ~$20. It's like a urine test for your engine and it will tell you what kind of shape your engine is in. Highly recommended. As far as filters, OEM/Fram/PureOne are all about the same (if you look at the internals). If you're running dino and will be changing out the filter at every oil change, then just get the cheapest one (this is what I have done with my EJ7). However, if you're running synthetic and will be doing extended oil change intervals, I'd say get something a bit better. My personal preferences are, either Amsoil Ea or NAPA Gold (made by Wix). The downside to Amsoil is $$ (I believe $15?), whereas the NAPA Gold is ~$6. Very quality filters.

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