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Old 08-14-09, 11:14 PM   #1
dubcac
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Finally Broke Out The XS v.warninglotsofpics

My uncle from NC was in Monterey this week to auction a car he designed, and a company he's partners in built. It's the week of the Concours show at Pebble Beach, as well as a few big time car auctions in Monterey. Enjoy. There are lots of pics...mostly vintage cars. Of course I didn't have my cam ready as we were leaving lunch...white Carrera GT followed by an F40.

Only PS work was resize.

First up is my uncle's car. It started as a 63 Stingray split window coupe. The cab was moved forward 24" and the engine moved to the rear...and let's say beefed up a bit. Everything was fabricated by their company. Sub 3 second 0-60, 1027hp, 915 lb-ft.











Now this is how you park a Lambo.









This car is gorgeous....OG Jag.




























Also got to do this driving simulator...there was a vid posted a while back.



Pretty badass.
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Old 08-14-09, 11:15 PM   #2
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Well it looks like photobucket resized everything small. Oh well.
































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Old 08-15-09, 12:14 AM   #3
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Nice. i was just reading about this on Autoblog.
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Old 08-15-09, 01:59 AM   #4
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glad to see you finally got it out. inside pics look clean.
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Old 08-15-09, 02:00 AM   #5
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I wish the outside ones were a bit better, but it was midday broad daylight. Any tips for that?
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Old 08-15-09, 02:21 AM   #6
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what where your settings? auto or manual? give me a the exif data from one of the out side pics.
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Old 08-15-09, 12:26 PM   #7
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Manualllllllllll. I'll just use the first pic.

Used the 18-55 kit lens for the pics and the onboard light meter.

ISO 100
f/5
1/800
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Old 08-15-09, 01:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubcac View Post
Manualllllllllll. I'll just use the first pic.

Used the 18-55 kit lens for the pics and the onboard light meter.

ISO 100
f/5
1/800
when outside try to use a higher f/stop

for example i would of gone with like

ISO 200
F12-14
1/200-150
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Old 08-15-09, 03:28 PM   #9
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I would probably keep it to around f/8 - most of those kit lenses are sharpest at f/8 or so, and higher f stops can actually degrade quality due to diffraction of light.

I also find it helpful to have the playback set to highlights - not sure how canon does it, but Nikon has a setting where it blinks all the blown highlights... So you can shoot, check, and re-adjust if necessary.
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Old 08-16-09, 12:17 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj02 View Post
when outside try to use a higher f/stop

for example i would of gone with like

ISO 200
F12-14
1/200-150
How would that change the look of the shots?
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Old 08-16-09, 01:35 PM   #11
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Dope coverage B. Your uncle let you drive that beast?

Adjustments would help soften the exposure, at least thats what I was told. Also was recommended to use a polarizer. Im sure the pros will chime in on this.
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Old 08-16-09, 02:45 PM   #12
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in simple terms it would help your outside pics, look like your inside pics.

filters = your friend.
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Old 08-16-09, 07:26 PM   #13
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That stingray is beyond sick
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Old 08-16-09, 07:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dj02 View Post
in simple terms it would help your outside pics, look like your inside pics.

filters = your friend.
But what would be different...less exposure to the background? What filters should I get?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 98CoupeV6 View Post
That stingray is beyond sick
Werd. And no, I didn't get to drive it. But he said it scared the shit out of him....he also has a ZR-1. o:
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Old 08-16-09, 11:41 PM   #15
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Something like 1/800 would be reserved for subjects that are moving. Since your subjects are stationary, you don't need the shutter to open and close THAT fast.

Going from film to digital, I've noticed that LCD's on the back of the camera, lie to you. What looks like flashing, blown highlights on the LCD on your camera may be perfect if you're sending your prints to a lab for print. What looks perfect, may be under exposed.
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Old 08-17-09, 12:15 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chefboiali View Post
Something like 1/800 would be reserved for subjects that are moving. Since your subjects are stationary, you don't need the shutter to open and close THAT fast.

Going from film to digital, I've noticed that LCD's on the back of the camera, lie to you. What looks like flashing, blown highlights on the LCD on your camera may be perfect if you're sending your prints to a lab for print. What looks perfect, may be under exposed.
I didn't use the LCD at all. It displays my settings and that's it. I used the meter in the viewfinder.
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Old 08-17-09, 12:24 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubcac View Post
I didn't use the LCD at all. It displays my settings and that's it. I used the meter in the viewfinder.
I figured you used the viewfinder, but thought maybe you confirmed the exposure via the LCD. I feel that a lot of digital SLR users rely on the LCD and never really understand what they're doing.

You're on the right track.

Using settings instead of the LCD screen is like learning to ski w/out your poles. You just get-it from a better place.
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Old 08-17-09, 12:31 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chefboiali View Post
I figured you used the viewfinder, but thought maybe you confirmed the exposure via the LCD. I feel that a lot of digital SLR users rely on the LCD and never really understand what they're doing.

You're on the right track.

Using settings instead of the LCD screen is like learning to ski w/out your poles. You just get-it from a better place.
I used to use my LCD with my old point n shoot because I had to use it to change exposure settings and such, and it didn't have a meter in the viewfinder. Now I'm trying to learn the right way.
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Old 10-14-09, 11:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubcac View Post

Now this is how you park a Lambo.




Pretty badass.
fyi, that's not how you park them. You can sit on the door sill and see behind just find. That's how the factory does it anyways.
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Old 10-14-09, 11:38 PM   #20
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Seriously
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Old 10-15-09, 07:51 AM   #21
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no rear camera?
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Old 10-15-09, 09:26 AM   #22
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For filters, I use a UV filter (more for protection) and a Polarizer. The UV just sits there and cuts out the UV crap and the polarizer you spin appropriately to cut down on glare, reduce blowout on the sky, etc.
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