Acura CL/Accord 94-97: Spring Install w/pics
01-26-2003, 05:46 PM
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Acura CL/Accord 94-97: Spring Install w/pics
I posted this awhile back in the accord forum and figured it might help in the DIY forum so here ya go:
I did some searching before installing my springs and didnt find a how to and than someone wanted a how to on the CL site and i figured it might be helpful to you accord guys (suspension is almost exactly the same) so here goes.
I installed some eibach pro kits by myself and i def. recommend getting a friend to help you. I have a few pics but i dont know how helpful they will be
You will need:
-2 good jacks
-Assorted sockets and open ended wrenches (air tools if avail)
-Flashlight (very helpful when lining up holes)
-Spring Compressor
-Penetrating Oil
-Allen wrench that is included with tools in trunk
-Hammer (need a little persuation now and than)
1. Spray all bolts with penetrating oil the day before if possiable
2. Unbolt the upper strut bar under the hood (2 screws in each side and two in the middle - 12MM socket)
3. Jack up both front sides of the car (makes it easier to free strut from lower mounting piece)
4. Remove wheel on one side
5. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM maybe) (lower circle in pic)
6. Remove the mounting bolt that holds the strut to the bracket (upper circle in pic)
7. Remove the three nuts under the hood that hold the strut in (14MM)
8. The strut and spring should now drop out, if they dont keep wiggling it until the bottom of the strut is free from the mounting piece.
9. Now you will need to compress the top spring with your compressors. You will need to compress the fronts a lot more than the backs.
10. With the spring compressed, put the allen wrench in the end of the strut as show in the pic below.
11. Take an 14MM open ended wrench and remove the nut holding the top mount to the spring and shock.
12. The spring should now be free from the strut and you can slide your new spring over the strut.
Eibach on top, stock on bottom, lots of compressing on the old one 
13. Compress the spring and put the top mount back on.
14. Using the allen wrench again, tighten the top nut.
15. Slide the assembly back in place and hand tighten the top three mounting nuts.
16. Put the bottom of the strut in the mounting bracket and tighten the bolt.
17. Replace the bottom mounting bolt and tighten.
18. Tighten the top nuts
19. Put the wheel back on
20. Do the same on the other side and lower the front
Results in the messy garage
21. Jack up both sides of the back of the car.
22. Remove one tire
23. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM, might be bigger)
23. Remove the two nuts on the top of the shock in the trunk (14MM)
24. Drop the assembly down, and once it clears the top hole put it all they way up to the top of the wheel well and bring the bottom out first. This took me a while to get out.
25. Compress the back spring, as you can see it doesnt need too much compressing
26. Using the allen wrech again remove the top mounting nut (14MM).
27. Slide the spring off (looking at how the bottom mount and top mounts are lined up) and put the new spring on. I didnt need to compress the back eibach, as you can see they are pretty much even in length. I put the compressed part of the spring towards the bottom. (stock is on bottom, eibach top)
28. When you go to put the top mount back on the shock and spring, make sure the top screw is inline with the very end of the spring on the bottom of the assembly. It is kind of hard to explain but if you look in the pic you will see the top mounting screw is inline with the very end of the coil. This is VERY important when remounting the assembly and cause me to remove it and start over
29. This part is a pain in the neck. Figure out a way to get the assembly back in the wheel well and lined up. Leave your self a lot of time for this one and i recommend puttting the top in first.
30. After you get the spring in place hand tighten the top nuts.
31. Than line up the bottom and put the bolt back in place.
32. Tighten the top mounting nuts.
33. Replace the wheel and move on to the other side.
Back after drop
BEFORE (not a great pic sorry)
AFTER Drop
Keep in mind i have never done this before so my instructions may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me. It did however take me the better part of the weekend and a lot of cursing but its done
If you have it done expect to pay $140-150 to a local shop and around $240 at the dealer.
If you have any question or see any mistakes let me know Good luck
I did some searching before installing my springs and didnt find a how to and than someone wanted a how to on the CL site and i figured it might be helpful to you accord guys (suspension is almost exactly the same) so here goes.
I installed some eibach pro kits by myself and i def. recommend getting a friend to help you. I have a few pics but i dont know how helpful they will be
You will need:
-2 good jacks
-Assorted sockets and open ended wrenches (air tools if avail)
-Flashlight (very helpful when lining up holes)
-Spring Compressor
-Penetrating Oil
-Allen wrench that is included with tools in trunk
-Hammer (need a little persuation now and than)
1. Spray all bolts with penetrating oil the day before if possiable
2. Unbolt the upper strut bar under the hood (2 screws in each side and two in the middle - 12MM socket)
3. Jack up both front sides of the car (makes it easier to free strut from lower mounting piece)
4. Remove wheel on one side
5. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM maybe) (lower circle in pic)
6. Remove the mounting bolt that holds the strut to the bracket (upper circle in pic)
7. Remove the three nuts under the hood that hold the strut in (14MM)
8. The strut and spring should now drop out, if they dont keep wiggling it until the bottom of the strut is free from the mounting piece.
9. Now you will need to compress the top spring with your compressors. You will need to compress the fronts a lot more than the backs.
10. With the spring compressed, put the allen wrench in the end of the strut as show in the pic below.
11. Take an 14MM open ended wrench and remove the nut holding the top mount to the spring and shock.
12. The spring should now be free from the strut and you can slide your new spring over the strut.
Eibach on top, stock on bottom, lots of compressing on the old one 13. Compress the spring and put the top mount back on.
14. Using the allen wrench again, tighten the top nut.
15. Slide the assembly back in place and hand tighten the top three mounting nuts.
16. Put the bottom of the strut in the mounting bracket and tighten the bolt.
17. Replace the bottom mounting bolt and tighten.
18. Tighten the top nuts
19. Put the wheel back on
20. Do the same on the other side and lower the front
Results in the messy garage
21. Jack up both sides of the back of the car.
22. Remove one tire
23. Remove the lower mounting bolt (17MM, might be bigger)
23. Remove the two nuts on the top of the shock in the trunk (14MM)
24. Drop the assembly down, and once it clears the top hole put it all they way up to the top of the wheel well and bring the bottom out first. This took me a while to get out.
25. Compress the back spring, as you can see it doesnt need too much compressing
26. Using the allen wrech again remove the top mounting nut (14MM).
27. Slide the spring off (looking at how the bottom mount and top mounts are lined up) and put the new spring on. I didnt need to compress the back eibach, as you can see they are pretty much even in length. I put the compressed part of the spring towards the bottom. (stock is on bottom, eibach top)
28. When you go to put the top mount back on the shock and spring, make sure the top screw is inline with the very end of the spring on the bottom of the assembly. It is kind of hard to explain but if you look in the pic you will see the top mounting screw is inline with the very end of the coil. This is VERY important when remounting the assembly and cause me to remove it and start over
29. This part is a pain in the neck. Figure out a way to get the assembly back in the wheel well and lined up. Leave your self a lot of time for this one and i recommend puttting the top in first.
30. After you get the spring in place hand tighten the top nuts.
31. Than line up the bottom and put the bolt back in place.
32. Tighten the top mounting nuts.
33. Replace the wheel and move on to the other side.
Back after drop
BEFORE (not a great pic sorry)
AFTER Drop
Keep in mind i have never done this before so my instructions may not be the best way to do it but it worked for me. It did however take me the better part of the weekend and a lot of cursing but its done
If you have it done expect to pay $140-150 to a local shop and around $240 at the dealer.If you have any question or see any mistakes let me know
Good luck
01-27-2003, 10:41 AM
#2
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For a "correct install" arent you supposed to install the rear springs w/ the closely wound coils towards the top? thus "Eibach" is read correctly rightside up, and according to eibach's FAQ, they should be installed that way.
how is the ride in the rear? and any clunk? I'm thinking of installing my prokits upside down as well. With the stock struts, you need to be sure to mount each of the strut mounts correctly aligned.
-------
front is 11degrees30' +/-3 degrees relative to a horizontal line w/ the aligning tab on the upper mount.
in the rear, the two bolts on the strut mount should be 44degrees10' +/- 3 degrees, left side being leftward up line (quadrant 4 to 2 on a graph), and right being rightward up line (qudrant 3 to 1), each relative to the line between the welded nut on the strut (welded nut faces the rear of the car).
-------
argh, i really need a scanner to explain this :P
how is the ride in the rear? and any clunk? I'm thinking of installing my prokits upside down as well. With the stock struts, you need to be sure to mount each of the strut mounts correctly aligned.
-------
front is 11degrees30' +/-3 degrees relative to a horizontal line w/ the aligning tab on the upper mount.
in the rear, the two bolts on the strut mount should be 44degrees10' +/- 3 degrees, left side being leftward up line (quadrant 4 to 2 on a graph), and right being rightward up line (qudrant 3 to 1), each relative to the line between the welded nut on the strut (welded nut faces the rear of the car).
-------
argh, i really need a scanner to explain this :P
02-06-2003, 03:02 PM
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Mi Doggie
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Did you raise both sides of the car? I noticed that when you raise both sides the suspension drops a lot more so you dont have to remove anything else
Originally posted by djmtsu
On my '94 Accord, I also had to remove the swap bar end bolts to get the suspension up front to drop far enough for removal of the strut.
On my '94 Accord, I also had to remove the swap bar end bolts to get the suspension up front to drop far enough for removal of the strut.
02-19-2003, 05:37 PM
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Originally posted by djmtsu
On my '94 Accord, I also had to remove the swap bar end bolts to get the suspension up front to drop far enough for removal of the strut.
On my '94 Accord, I also had to remove the swap bar end bolts to get the suspension up front to drop far enough for removal of the strut.
the tightly wound coils should be at the top of the rear shock, with rubber coil isolating tubing around them. (mine came with my sportlines)