1998accordlx

ok this problem has been on going with my car for the past year.....i used to thing that it was my auto tranmission but it looks like its not, cuz i just rebuilt the damn thing.

SO here is what the car does. when the car warms up and the RPM drops as it warms up. The car starts shaking sometimes even when i drive and come to complete stop the RPM drops slightly. if you count from zero on the taq slightly below the third line that's when i feel the shake. i have new Honda wires and plugs and i did the timing belt and water pump + brand new radiator and thermostat. This car has only 88,000 miles on it and its 98 4cy accord. What do you guys think the the problem. Also to mention that my temp Gauge is also acting up it keeps jumping up and down sometimes and sometimes it will get stuck to the bottom (Bellow freezing) while driving on the freeway to the point where i have to tap the dash and it goes back up.

List of problems:
1. Car shaking at ideal and complete stops when the car is warm only.
2. Temp gauge bouncing up and down and getting stuck sometimes.
3. The cars interior lights and the gauge cluster light will dim if i use my power windows.

What i think the solutions are
1. TPS sensor
2. Bad coolant sensor or guage
3. Bad ground ( have no clue how and where to check for grounds) or bad alternator.


Please help me and correct me if i'm wrong thank you so much for you time.

Shounin

Man; I just read your tread title and it was like OMG this guy´s tranny again???

In my case I´ve cleaned the Throttle-body, changed the IACV and all pressure hoses. Now the car is better. The shaking issue occurred when RPM drops below 650; the car shakes. Changing all that stuff solves it because in my case it was a pressurization problem.

Now; about temp. Is the cooling system working in normal condition besides the temp gauge bouncing? It could be a problem in the cluster panel.

About the lights; probably the battery isn’t holding charge. You will need first to check voltage in you alternator + battery using a multimeter. If it’s not them could be battery terminals loose or corroded.

A-series

Dimming interior lights isn't really that unusual when you put the battery under load. It's more noticeable on some cars than others, but many I've driven (Honda and other) will do that. If it's a huge difference in brightness, than I'd look at the condition of the battery (what it puts out w/ out engine running) and the alt (check what battery puts out with engine at warm idle) with a volt/ohm meter.
May also be more noticeable w/ the engine off as the battery doesn't have the help of the alternator.

Your ground cables are the ones that run from the engine or transmission to the chassis. As well as the negative battery cable and a few others such as the one at or near the fuse box. No matter how bad they look, as long as they aren't loose or full of corrosion at connection ends, they shouldn't need replaced.

If hitting it consistently brings it back to life, the temp. gauge issue has to be a problem with gauge itself or the cluster's connection.

edit: after reading what Shounin posted, I'd agree to make sure the battery terminals look good too. And removing the IACV (when engine is cold), cleaning it with carburetor cleaner (after removing rubber gasket/o-ring), and putting it back on to the proper torque is a good idea. Fairly easy and it often fixes idle issues. If not, it may be the EGR valve, just guessing.
Good idea to wear safety goggles, etc. just in case when using carb. or brake cleaner.