Brake pads DIY project?
#1
Brake pads DIY project?
Hi,
I have a 98 32 TL. Just wondering how difficult it is to replace the brake pads and rotors? I am not a mechanic, just a contractor so I do know how to use some tools. Is this a DIY project? One front brake is squeaking from the wear indicator.
Thanks,
I have a 98 32 TL. Just wondering how difficult it is to replace the brake pads and rotors? I am not a mechanic, just a contractor so I do know how to use some tools. Is this a DIY project? One front brake is squeaking from the wear indicator.
Thanks,
#2
Lord Vader Moderator
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It is pretty straight forward but it depends on how comfortable you are with bleeding the brake fluid lines. If you have never done it before or do not have anyone helping that have experience, I would recommend you not do it on your own.
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Honda-Acura.net Vigor/TL/CL Forum Moderator.
Comptech Icebox, Headers, Exhaust, Lowering Springs and Sway Bars. Mugen front grille. Inspire tailamps. MOMO Sport 18 X 7.5 +42 offset. Axxis Metal Master front/rear pad. 2 Polk/MOMO 10" subs, Orion Xtreme 500.4 amplifier and Alpine CD changer.
#3
If you do take it on yourself, be advised that the brakes will not work properly until they become seated. In other words, don't go charging off and expect the brakes to work well at all until they become seated and there is material exchange between the rotor and pad.
How do you know the rotors need replacing? There is a specified minimum thickness stamped on them somewhere. Furthermore, I would be careful bleeding the brakes if you choose to do so (which you should). A pressure bleeder is best. Pressing the brake pedal beyond its normal travel pushes the seals past their usual stopping point. The master cylinder walls could be corroded beyond the normal piston travel point. That would damage the piston seal and you'd need a new master cylinder or a rebuild as a minimum. A pressure bleeder applies pressure at the master cylinder and no pumping is carried out. It eliminates the chance of getting air in the line/calipers - unless you bleed too much and empty your reservoir. When I bleed, I remove as much fluid as possible from reservoir, then refill, then bleed. Otherwise you're pushing moisture laden fluid into the system.
As Vader said, it is not a difficult job.
How do you know the rotors need replacing? There is a specified minimum thickness stamped on them somewhere. Furthermore, I would be careful bleeding the brakes if you choose to do so (which you should). A pressure bleeder is best. Pressing the brake pedal beyond its normal travel pushes the seals past their usual stopping point. The master cylinder walls could be corroded beyond the normal piston travel point. That would damage the piston seal and you'd need a new master cylinder or a rebuild as a minimum. A pressure bleeder applies pressure at the master cylinder and no pumping is carried out. It eliminates the chance of getting air in the line/calipers - unless you bleed too much and empty your reservoir. When I bleed, I remove as much fluid as possible from reservoir, then refill, then bleed. Otherwise you're pushing moisture laden fluid into the system.
As Vader said, it is not a difficult job.
#4
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hi there guys. im new here and was wondering if any of you knows or have a step by step procedure to remove my bad 02 civic transmission. i need to replace it i think. my car is a 4drLX sedan A/T.
#5
Your post is a topic change. You should begin a new thread for this topic. You limit yourself as to the number of readers who will see this because many just scan the subjects for interest.