change CV boot for 99 accord
#1
change CV boot for 99 accord
hi,all.
I have a 99 accord coupe with 120K miles. Just find out my passage side CV boot is ripped and has some amount of grease spread out. I'm thinking about change only the boot since I CV joint havnt been making any noise yet. have any of u guys tried split boot(I hear the glue kind is good). I'm going to try it and hopefully it can hold about one year, so I can get cash to change the whole CV out.
my question is where can I buy some good split CV boot? is it worth to try?? thx
I have a 99 accord coupe with 120K miles. Just find out my passage side CV boot is ripped and has some amount of grease spread out. I'm thinking about change only the boot since I CV joint havnt been making any noise yet. have any of u guys tried split boot(I hear the glue kind is good). I'm going to try it and hopefully it can hold about one year, so I can get cash to change the whole CV out.
my question is where can I buy some good split CV boot? is it worth to try?? thx
#2
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Sorry if this is not what you want to hear but in my experience every split boot I have used have only lasted about 2-3 months ,and I have always found it much more cost effective to change the boot for a whole one ,why do you want to change the whole cv out I would imagine from what you are saying that the joint itself is okay so just strip it down and change the rubber boot and put it back together. Sometimes the easy option gives us more grif in the long run
thanks
freeze
thanks
freeze
#3
freeze, thx for the reply.
I'm just a little bit tight on cash right now, and it seems like change the boot is not a easy job. let me talk to my mechanic tomorrow, c how much he will charge for changing the whole boot for me.
thx a lot.
I'm just a little bit tight on cash right now, and it seems like change the boot is not a easy job. let me talk to my mechanic tomorrow, c how much he will charge for changing the whole boot for me.
thx a lot.
#4
truthfully i would change the joint. If its been torn open that means its been contaminated. Little pieces of dirt and moisture have gotten up in the axle and eventually it will get its way into the bearings. After that its only a matter of time before it vibrates on acceleration, begins to knock loudly when turning, or pops and stuff on suspension travel. Or if its the in-bound joint it wont plung anymore or get stuck at times and just cause nasty problems.
however i do suppose the mechanic could clean it out, repack it and put a new boot on. But thats pretty labor intensive and probably cheaper to do a new cv joint.
however i do suppose the mechanic could clean it out, repack it and put a new boot on. But thats pretty labor intensive and probably cheaper to do a new cv joint.
Last edited by vtec4clyfury; 08-03-2008 at 07:46 PM.
#5
thx.
yeah, I just talked to my mechanic and he suggest me to change the whole thing. he quoted me 140$ for the whole thing with warranty. u guys think it's a good price?
BTW, I heard some noise today when I was going really slow. it happened no matter I'm making a turn or not. it sounds like metal grinding noise but not very sharp. is it my CV joint dying??
thx
yeah, I just talked to my mechanic and he suggest me to change the whole thing. he quoted me 140$ for the whole thing with warranty. u guys think it's a good price?
BTW, I heard some noise today when I was going really slow. it happened no matter I'm making a turn or not. it sounds like metal grinding noise but not very sharp. is it my CV joint dying??
thx
#7
Grinding noise is a real good reason to replace the axle instead of just covering it up with new boots.
$140 including parts? Sounds good. If you want to consider doing it yourself, go to AutoZone & price the axle alone. Then remember you'll need new tranny fluid too.
$140 including parts? Sounds good. If you want to consider doing it yourself, go to AutoZone & price the axle alone. Then remember you'll need new tranny fluid too.
#9
only thing that sux is if you do it yourself breaking the axle nut loose is always fun. Sometimes even with a huge pipe it won't come loose. If you know a friend or someone that has an air have them break the nut loose or do it there. If you have them break it loose just have them break it loose and retighten it back to close to what its supposed to be at. Not saying this is a great idea cause you should always have it torque'd to spec to keep it on but an axle is free floating so the nut just really holds it in place while the suspension makes its effective opporating length shorter and longer.
If it were me and i didn't have air (which i do ) then i would try a huge cheater bar or have a buddy break it loose. Drive it home, do the work, get a new nut, torque it and have a beer.
If it were me and i didn't have air (which i do ) then i would try a huge cheater bar or have a buddy break it loose. Drive it home, do the work, get a new nut, torque it and have a beer.
#10
guys, thx a lot for the replies.
so u guys think the grinding noise is related to the half axle? I'm just curious because I thought CV joint makes noise only when making a turn? right? mine makes noise when I go slowly(turning or not, doesnt seems matter). whenever I speed up, it's gone....
so u guys think the grinding noise is related to the half axle? I'm just curious because I thought CV joint makes noise only when making a turn? right? mine makes noise when I go slowly(turning or not, doesnt seems matter). whenever I speed up, it's gone....