vtec4clyfury

changed the valve cover gasket, tube seals, spark plug o-ring seals, and the ......4 cover nut seals or whatever they are. I haven't driven it anywhere yet since its still not plated but i didn't notice any oil trying to leak out. I drove it to my garage by the apartment and could hear the suspension on bumps. So i began to lift the drivers side wheel and the spring began to rub on the shock :rant:

I've seen some good ones at the pull a part so i'll do that for the moment. Not sure how hard they are to replace but i would imagine take the weight off the front end and unbolt the crappy ones and replace them with the new ones. Since they are already capped i'm sure i woudln't need a spring compressor and as i woudl just replace the bad spring and shock with a new spring and new shock from another accord.

Cup holder again yay, haven't figured out how to get the cigarette lighter out of the new trim piece. I know there's a special tool but how do you get the cigarette lighter out of the trim panel. Still looking for another drivers corner, about to just order one off ebay..... Still need to jump the fan but i let it run for a while tonight and according to my gauge it stops before 1/2 but never goes any higher. Not really sure how that is because in theory it should just keep going up. But again i thought it best to turn it off in case the gauge is faulty and i was didn't want to over heat it.

And fixed the driver side power window. I found small glass chunks on the bottom of the inside of the door so i dont' know what happened but i wonder if there is a corelation between that and the bullet shell's. I try to ignore it just incase it was involved in something in its previous life lol.

vtec4clyfury

Something else, the powersteering pump seems to be somewhat bolted up. The bottom tension adjusting bolt is missing the one bolt which holds it to the .......i dunno i dont' remember now. But its got the big 15 mm head sticking out and i tried to thread it in but feels like it wants to cross thread and then the bolt below it i think needs to be loosened because the tension is hard but is laying on the top of the alternator. I can take a pic if that helps.

But my main question, how do you purge the fluid thats in there so i can replace it with new clean fluid. Its a dirty brown color so i want to flush it out but i know that its intended to always have fluid in it. Just take off the return hose and fill as needed?? Cause once i start the car i doubt it'll take more than a few seconds to completely empty itself.

JimBlake

The ultimate flush would be to take the hoses off the reservoir. The hose going directly to the pump can be connected to a big bucket of new PS fluid. The other one goes to a drain bucket for old fluid. Lift the front of the car so you don't shred your tires.
Start the engine & work the steering completely lock-to-lock a few times until clean fluid comes out into the dirty bucket.

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I've done it differently...

Open the drain hose to a bucket. Start the engine & work the steering until the system spits air out of that hose. Stop the engine as soon as that happens.

Connect it back up & fill the reservoir.
Start it & work the steering back & forth, shut down quickly.
The fluid will foam, so let it settle awhile & add what you need.
Repeat because it will keep foaming when you run it. Eventually the air works out.

JimBlake

Forgot to say...
There's a fine mesh screen down low in the reservoir. Check that out because it can get cruddy.

vtec4clyfury

ok cool. I did what was suggested about jumping the fan switch near the throttle body/intake mani...

At first i did the connector in the front by the top radiator hose before i put thought into it. Fan ran after the car shutoff and thats when i realized the top radiator hose isn't what goes into the block meaning, that wasn't my thermostat housing. I followed the bottom (it was a day where i wasn't thinking straight, mostly hungover) and noticed the other identical connector except the thermister there was pink. I jumped the pins and both fans turned on. I thought only one turned on but that wouldn't make too much sense because only half the surface would be cooled off so i assume both fans work when the fan switch engages. Anyway....

the sensor is extrememly dirty. Dirt, dust, i doubt the car was ever washed much. I mean i the interior was that bad off i'm sure they didn't care what the exterior looked like. So this weekend i'm goinng to get some brake cleaner and try it again. If not i'll rip a few off the accords in the yards. A new one is a 26 bucks from autozone (i know i don't get much from there) so if i do decide to get another i at least know what its going to run.

I also found out the back brakes need replacing extremely SOON. The material is thinner than the backing plate its glued too. So i'lll take care of that this weekend along with the tire that has a belt that has busted and began to dry rott along the surface area of the busted belt. Meaning, i need another tire before it explodes on me. Good thing i'm not crusing everywhere let alone left the garage yet.

Still yet to figure out the interior lights, doing the stereo this weekend, new coils this weekend, and ....o, tryt o figure out why my clock doesn't work.

vtec4clyfury

damn i got lucky in the interior lights. I'm guessing from the guy leaving the windows down for so long it either shorted out the lights or too much resistance. I open up the fuse cover under the hood and i instantly smell something burnt. The interior lights fuse was burnt. Replace 15A fuse and now all lights, including the trunk light, all work when the door is open and when the switch is flipped to on. Still haven't figured out my clock yet but is that because i have to have a radio in it first?

Icon Of Sin

for the clock to work or the clock light? and did you check the other fuses?

i could be wrong but i dont think the stereo has anything to do with it.

vtec4clyfury

yea i checked all the fuses last night, i suppose the clock light could be out but i can't see any numbers at any angle in any light so i assume the whole clock itself has no power.

vtec4clyfury

well i found out what happend. I went to put the radio in and no power. Replaced the radio fuse and the power to the clock, seat belt retractors, and radio came back.

Same issue fixed my old teg today.My brothers beeper and clock stopped working after they put another cd player in. sure enough, same 7.5 fuse. Radio backup.

vtec4clyfury

alright, well i have a new issue, kind of a strange one. I was driving earlier rocking out an older sony xplod stereo. Its a CDX-msomething......

anyway i've only used it for 2 days, well earlier i was in a turn and didn't hit a bump or anything but suddenly the sound cuts out and the stereo acts fine. When you turn on the ignition switch the speaker in the back pops but no sound. I've also noticed that the seat belt warning beep is extremely quiet. I think its just a coninsedence sp??? because i have taken the radio back out but the seat belt warning is still really quiet. Anyway i put about 60 miles on it today and so far its great.

I hate to call it the beater but at this point thats what it is. I'm goinng ot try to replace the fan switch tomorrow. I just ran it with the ac on since that runs both fans. I know it was kinda dumb to deliver in it toinght but i wanted to see what apl,l was wrong with it. Also sorry for the mispelllings, i've had a few beers while watching the ufc match right now.