Ladyvalvamp

Ok I just took the car I'm trying to tune up and fix up to the dealer because the ABS is acting up bad all of a sudden. The dealer had the car for like 10 minutes and then cam out and said the ABS was going out and the brakes and that it was going to cost over $500. Now I know that's bullshit because the breaks are new I just put them on like 3 weeks ago. I think they just saw a girl and thought Sucker!
Here is what it is doing Now keep in mind that Sometimes the ABS light is on and sometimes it is off when it is acting up. When I have to break hard or fast no problems but when I come to a slow rolling stop I get a pulse or two just right befor I stop...now some days it's fine and then others it will act up....Has anyone else had this happen? and if so what was it? I'm trying to get my hands on a comp to hook it up to to see what it says but till then any ideas?

Ladyvalvamp

It's 95 Acura Integra LS sorry...

Line7

besides a problem with the ABS system, your rotors might be warped. When you say you changed the brakes, what exactly do you mean?

2001TEGGSR

What all did you replace when you did the brake job?

Your ABS sensors may need cleaned, or might just be loose.

Ladyvalvamp

Rotors brake calipers and pads and checked the bearings

Lynxs1981

Off question for a sec, but does anyone know if the OBD1 cars run the ABS type CEL scan like the OBD2 does? If they do, that might help you find out what's going on.

George Knighton

On our DC2 Type track cars on which we have kept the multichannel ABS, we find that successive slow bleeds, followed by deliberate activation of the ABS between the bleeds, will remove the air locks that will cause the symptoms that the original poster described.

My personal track car is an '00 ITR on which the ABS is fully operational in the most stalwart fashion after 100,000 miles...most of them on the track.

As the cars age, mechanics and dealers are going to fall back to the component replacement phase of things in order to eliminate subsequent complaints and because, quite frankly, we have lost most of the mechanics who were enthusiastic about the DC2.

If I were the original poster, I would inspect everything for proper fitment and look for small leaks, and then I would try the successive bleeds with ABS applications in between to see if that helps.

I doubt the pump itself is going...these things obviously can stand up to 100,000 miles of abuse. :-)

Ladyvalvamp

Well I have taken the car to 3 shops now and no one can tell me what is going on. The dealer wants to replace the whole thing and brakes...which is bull...the other shops hooked the car up to the camp and are getting no ill readings. The ABS is only acting up when the light goes out now and there is no long term memory for the comp in the car...or so I'm told...and everytime I take is somewhere to get it looked at it drives like a dream. Now what do I do? It shouldn't be this hard to find out what the deal is with these freaken ABS.

TheOtherDave™

Since the ABS computer isn't logging a fault code, I would follow George's advice and do a series of slow bleeds to make absolutely sure there's no air trapped inside the pump body or the calipers.

If the wheel speed sensors were the source of the problem, the computer would log a code.

Ladyvalvamp

Thanks guys I tried what George said and it seemed to help and while I was doing it I found a loose wire going to one of the sensors so I fixed that too.