Rack Boot Question
#1
Rack Boot Question
According to JimBlake, "That boot isn't supposed to have fluid inside anyway. Fluid in there means the hydraulic cylinder of the rack is leaking, and a new boot isn't gonna fix that."
How hard is it to replace the hydraulic cylinder and can I replace it with simple socket/ratchet set? Also, how much is a new hydraulic cylinder? Thanks!
How hard is it to replace the hydraulic cylinder and can I replace it with simple socket/ratchet set? Also, how much is a new hydraulic cylinder? Thanks!
#2
Just at random here's a '98. You didn't say what year...
The "hydraulic cylinder" is basically just the steering rack itself. Difficulty in swapping the rack probably differs from year to year.
The shaft #12 moves back & forth pushed by the "piston" in the middle. The seals (#1) are supposed to keep the PS fluid from leaking into those rack boots.
The "hydraulic cylinder" is basically just the steering rack itself. Difficulty in swapping the rack probably differs from year to year.
The shaft #12 moves back & forth pushed by the "piston" in the middle. The seals (#1) are supposed to keep the PS fluid from leaking into those rack boots.
#3
so i would have to bleed the power steering fluid if i wanted to redo the seals? man it looks like a hard project. not sure if i could do it. i might just replace the rack boot instead.
do you think buying a whole new assembly would be easier?
btw, i have a 96 accord 2.2 lx. thanks.
do you think buying a whole new assembly would be easier?
btw, i have a 96 accord 2.2 lx. thanks.
#4
I've never dismantled a rack. The one time I needed to, I bought a rebuilt rack. That's EASIER, because you still have to R&R the rack from the car either way. Cost vs. extra few hours of your labor is your call.
If you choose to rebuild yours, there's always the risk that you take it apart & find the REAL problem is the bore inside the main body (#11) is all buggered up, rough, pitted.
BTW, when I said 'not supposed to be fluid inside that boot' I meant it is not supposed to be full. Some few drops or puddles inside there, you can use your judgement. On my bad rack ('89 Saab) I lost about a pint of fluid. No leaks on the ground because it sorta FILLED up that boot.
If you choose to rebuild yours, there's always the risk that you take it apart & find the REAL problem is the bore inside the main body (#11) is all buggered up, rough, pitted.
BTW, when I said 'not supposed to be fluid inside that boot' I meant it is not supposed to be full. Some few drops or puddles inside there, you can use your judgement. On my bad rack ('89 Saab) I lost about a pint of fluid. No leaks on the ground because it sorta FILLED up that boot.
Last edited by JimBlake; 03-12-2008 at 10:38 AM.
#6
I think Jim has advised you well here. Ive never tried to repair a rack either but have read that bore damage over time is the root of most of the leaks. I think r&r the whole rack when it becomes necessary is the way to go. And again like he said, its how much fluid its going through is the deciding factor and up to your judgement. My Subaru rack has slow leak on the passenger side, its not annoying enough for me to swap it out yet.
k.
k.
#10
thank goodness another check tells me there's nothing dripping out of my cracked boot; its rather dry which im pretty glad cuz cheapest rack assembly from honda is around $350 online.