Flickering lights while driving?!
09-27-2007, 08:16 AM
#11
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Alright thats some different and good information, I'm taking everyone's thoughts into consideration this weekend, I'll be taking the car into the shop to figure this out... thanks again.!
09-28-2007, 10:16 PM
#12
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Here's hoping that mine does in fact have a new regulator b/c the description mentioned the new bearings, etc. but nothing about that :nervous:
h::chuckles:
09-29-2007, 04:12 PM
#13
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I'm going to beat a dead horse today.
After you install your alternator, make sure you test it correctly. You should always test across the poles of the battery with a voltmeter both with the car running, and with the car off. The new alternator should be supplying 13.5-14.5 volts with the car running, and 11.5-12.5 with it off. Basically it should produce 2 more volts with the car running or it's not charging right, and you should test it with everything electrical turned off.
An overcharged electrical system can make the car do stupid things or even damage other electronic parts if it doesn't maintain consistent voltage, and an undercharging alternator will eventually leave you stranded somewhere.
Re-manufactured alternators are famous for being flaming piles of .... because there's no real way to test them effectively to find out what they're going to do once bolted to an actual engine and exposed to heat. They just follow a procedure of certain parts that they can replace and probe for resistance to make sure they didn't short anything out. Sometimes you have to go through 2 or 3 re-manufactured alternators to get a good one. It's easy to imagine something else is wrong with your car after replacing it because you expect that "new" part to be good. I can't tell you how many I've replaced and had problems with afterwards; but get one with a warranty, save your receipt, and test it with the process above and you should be fine.
PS: I have re-manufactured alternators on all of my cars right now. I won't pay 3x as much for a brand new one.
After you install your alternator, make sure you test it correctly. You should always test across the poles of the battery with a voltmeter both with the car running, and with the car off. The new alternator should be supplying 13.5-14.5 volts with the car running, and 11.5-12.5 with it off. Basically it should produce 2 more volts with the car running or it's not charging right, and you should test it with everything electrical turned off.
An overcharged electrical system can make the car do stupid things or even damage other electronic parts if it doesn't maintain consistent voltage, and an undercharging alternator will eventually leave you stranded somewhere.
Re-manufactured alternators are famous for being flaming piles of .... because there's no real way to test them effectively to find out what they're going to do once bolted to an actual engine and exposed to heat. They just follow a procedure of certain parts that they can replace and probe for resistance to make sure they didn't short anything out. Sometimes you have to go through 2 or 3 re-manufactured alternators to get a good one. It's easy to imagine something else is wrong with your car after replacing it because you expect that "new" part to be good. I can't tell you how many I've replaced and had problems with afterwards; but get one with a warranty, save your receipt, and test it with the process above and you should be fine.
PS: I have re-manufactured alternators on all of my cars right now. I won't pay 3x as much for a brand new one.