After a couple years of waiting.......I get to start my GSR build

[stratguitarist]

Originally Posted by HatchVX Man it sucks i cant go back and edit it, its past the 720 mins Im assuming you want me to take a video of some sort?

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[HatchVX]

yeah basicly

[Bumnah]

Dope.

[Running925]

so i take it the basemap worked out well?

and whats the deal with your baby shitz break in.. go romp on that beast, rings will have seated within 20min & a couple warm-up's & cool downs!

[Civic2Scooby]

Originally Posted by Running925

so i take it the basemap worked out well?

and whats the deal with your baby shitz break in.. go romp on that beast, rings will have seated within 20min & a couple warm-up's & cool downs!

agreed. Babying the motor to break it in = fail

[HatchVX]

I was going with the procedure that they told Josh(straitguitarist) when they put in his motor. The Basemap is working well except for the fact that after driving for a while when i come to a stop the motor dies, it fires back up, but if i dont catch it it will stall out. I have to chase a O2 sensor code also. Just the other day i got a code 1.


I was just looking at some gearing things for my trans its is interesting
Base transmission selected: 94-01 US B16A/ITR 1st gear 3.230 2nd gear 2.105 3rd gear 1.458 4th gear 1.107 5th gear 0.848 Final drive 4.400
Gear Shift RPM Speed @ 9000 RPM 1st N/A 44.1 2nd 5865 67.6 3rd 6234 97.7 4th 6833 128.6 5th 6894 167.9 RPM in top gear at 75 mph: 4020

[Running925]

Originally Posted by HatchVX

The Basemap is working well except for the fact that after driving for a while when i come to a stop the motor dies, it fires back up, but if i dont catch it it will stall out. I have to chase a O2 sensor code also. Just the other day i got a code 1.

What rpm is it idling at, might wanna raise it a tad so that it doesn't do that. (idle screw on tb)

[HatchVX]

I would do that, but my blox TB doest have an idle adjust on it

[Running925]

Originally Posted by HatchVX

I would do that, but my blox TB doest have an idle adjust on it

well that sux! I guess u'll just have to generate a controlled vacume leak somewhere else!

[Civic2Scooby]

Originally Posted by Running925

well that sux! I guess u'll just have to generate a controlled vacume leak somewhere else!

just gonna tell him to poke a pin hole in a vacuum line

[Running925]

Originally Posted by Civic2Scooby

just gonna tell him to poke a pin hole in a vacuum line

haha yea, unfortunatly something a little more creative will have to be done once it's boosted coz we can't be havin no boost leaks!

Afro Engeneering says: small air valve on vacume line with one way check-valve! (controllable & only allows vacume to leak, not boost!)

[Line7]

Couldnt he just tighten up the throttle cable?

[Running925]

Originally Posted by Line7

Couldnt he just tighten up the throttle cable?

no because if the tps reads more then 0% open every time he lets off the gas pedal the car will buck and it will feel like shit.

[HatchVX]

Well i got the code 1 to go away, now i have to find out why its throwing at 43. deals with the same thing the o2 sensor. I will have to look at it tonight. from what i can tell its pulls great, now i have to see if i can find a wideband and get that installed. Its good to know that it running like it suppose to.

[Running925]

i can always just shut your o2 off and it will read from the map without compensation for climate. This would eliminate the code crap and without being tuned it's not like it's really going to effect your gas milage worse than it is now.

[HatchVX]

I just did the first fill up and i did 22mpg so its not that bad. Hey can i adjust the Idle with the ECU? I was looking into the basemap and it shows the idle being around 800 RPMs can i change it to 1000?

[Civic2Scooby]

Originally Posted by Running925

haha yea, unfortunatly something a little more creative will have to be done once it's boosted coz we can't be havin no boost leaks!

Afro Engeneering says: small air valve on vacume line with one way check-valve! (controllable & only allows vacume to leak, not boost!)

fish tank setup :o

[Running925]

Originally Posted by HatchVX

I just did the first fill up and i did 22mpg so its not that bad. Hey can i adjust the Idle with the ECU? I was looking into the basemap and it shows the idle being around 800 RPMs can i change it to 1000?

trust me, that won't work!

but it's your car & your call

[fathergoat]

only 22mpg? that must suck

I've messed with the idle in the ecu before. didn't help at all.

[Running925]

Originally Posted by fathergoat

only 22mpg? that must suck

I've messed with the idle in the ecu before. didn't help at all.

not bad for a basemap, so shut up mister 300+ whp with 37mpg!!! lol

u is the suck!

[fathergoat]

but I only got 35mpg

[Running925]

Originally Posted by fathergoat

but I only got 35mpg

you just wait, i'm gonna squeeze 34ish outa my 2.0 b-series next summer!

[HatchVX]

Originally Posted by Running925

you just wait, i'm gonna squeeze 34ish outa my 2.0 b-series next summer!

Hopefully it will be that way for mine. I adjust the idle on the ecu and so far it was helped, haven't stalled out. I think i finally figured out the O2 problem also.

[fathergoat]

Originally Posted by Running925

you just wait, i'm gonna squeeze 34ish outa my 2.0 b-series next summer!

I hope you can

[stratguitarist]

Originally Posted by Running925

and whats the deal with your baby shitz break in.. go romp on that beast, rings will have seated within 20min & a couple warm-up's & cool downs!

Originally Posted by Civic2Scooby

agreed. Babying the motor to break it in = fail

When I broke my motor in I did 200 miles no boost period, after that the turbo was broken in. I did another 800 with maybe 2 psi max and never going past 3500 rpm. Oil changes were done at 200, 500, and then at 900 with synthetic before I took the 100 mile trip to get tuned. I figure if you put that much work and money into something your not going to ruin the break in by being impatiant. Patrick has been trying to accomplish this since ive known in back in highschool, would be a waste to be careless now.

[Running925]

Originally Posted by stratguitarist

When I broke my motor in I did 200 miles no boost period, after that the turbo was broken in. I did another 800 with maybe 2 psi max and never going past 3500 rpm. Oil changes were done at 200, 500, and then at 900 with synthetic before I took the 100 mile trip to get tuned. I figure if you put that much work and money into something your not going to ruin the break in by being impatiant. Patrick has been trying to accomplish this since ive known in back in highschool, would be a waste to be careless now.

WHOA! First off, turbo's need absolutly zero break in time.

If the motor was made from the materials that were used 50 years ago, i'd tell u to take it easy, but the fact of the matter is, materials and times have changed. There is a lot of documentation out there about this.

My personal break in on the most expencive shit that you could have:

Start-up, check for leaks, let it warm up, shut down let it cool.

Oil change

Start-up, warm up, run it hard and let it rev down to drag the oil off the cylinder walls.

Track Time.

My oil changes were:

0-miles
100 - miles
1000 - miles
every 2500 miles.

We have done this break-in on the last 5-6 motors that i've built and most of these are beaten on daily. Geo's LS just made a 12.9@104mph pass at the track with 8k on the build and only 10psi from a little .48/.57 t3/t4

Eric's car has like 20k on the built motor and runs extreamly strong.

Both of their builds are posted on this site.

[stratguitarist]

Originally Posted by Running925

WHOA! First off, turbo's need absolutly zero break in time.

If the motor was made from the materials that were used 50 years ago, i'd tell u to take it easy, but the fact of the matter is, materials and times have changed. There is a lot of documentation out there about this.

My personal break in on the most expencive shit that you could have:

Start-up, check for leaks, let it warm up, shut down let it cool.

Oil change

Start-up, warm up, run it hard and let it rev down to drag the oil off the cylinder walls.

Track Time.

My oil changes were:

0-miles
100 - miles
1000 - miles
every 2500 miles.

We have done this break-in on the last 5-6 motors that i've built and most of these are beaten on daily. Geo's LS just made a 12.9@104mph pass at the track with 8k on the build and only 10psi from a little .48/.57 t3/t4

Eric's car has like 20k on the built motor and runs extreamly strong.

Both of their builds are posted on this site.

Deadbolt, the company that produces my turbo, has very strict instructions listed on there website for the break in of there turbos. For them to charge 1600 bucks for a journal bearing 20g, and then to list detailed instructions, it wont hurt me not to be a jackass for 200 miles or so.

A quick google search will show numerous articles/arguments for the importance of proper engine break in. Cobb tuning, a huge player in the Subaru world and time attack race team, has strict insturctions for proper break in of an engine built by them. If you go to ANY motorcycle dealership around you and purchase a bike, they will give you break in procedures as well. IMHO there is far more proof that points to the benefits of breaking the engine in slowly than to rag on it.

My engine build ran upwards of 8 grand. I would rather drive like a grandma, and do oil chages in a set pattern then pay another 8 grand. Who knows, if I had ragged on it I could have only made 370whp on the dyno.

[HatchVX]

Here are some pics of the oil filter after the first 250 miles. I have already did the second oil change at 500, Im just a little late posting the pics. Every looked great, very few things of metal in the filter, and on the drain plug(magnetic)

As for drivabilty, i really need to get a wideband, This thing is running so pig rich, that up to about 3000 it bucks like a bronco, and when crusing it has slight bucks. I had to disable the O2 sensor because it was running like crap with it. I might have to make a trip donw to Jafros house and see if he can weld up this header for my( where the manifold and a pipe meet it is leaking and sounds like a Harley). And because of the leaks when it backfires i can feel and hear it in the engine bay. I have a few oil leaks i need to find and fix, One is on the timing belt side, and the other is on the trans side. So i have to pull the timing covers and drop the trans and see if i can find the leak.

[Running925]

dude, i forsee bearing failure.

pull the pan asap, check all bearings. There is copper in that first & last pic. better safe than sorry bro.

(making phone call now.. just to make sure u get this message in time.)

[Civic2Scooby]

Originally Posted by stratguitarist

When I broke my motor in I did 200 miles no boost period, after that the turbo was broken in. I did another 800 with maybe 2 psi max and never going past 3500 rpm. Oil changes were done at 200, 500, and then at 900 with synthetic before I took the 100 mile trip to get tuned. I figure if you put that much work and money into something your not going to ruin the break in by being impatiant. Patrick has been trying to accomplish this since ive known in back in highschool, would be a waste to be careless now.

you are not ruining the break in. It isn't about being impatient. It's a different breakin method for a different time in technology just as tony noted.