98 CIVIC-Basically Stock- Can a good shop adjust Camber without aftermarket adjusters
#1
98 CIVIC-Basically Stock- Can a good shop adjust Camber without aftermarket adjusters
Obviously this debates been going on for a while...so if this is well-handled in an FAQ, let me know.
Just bought a basically stock 98 Civic coupe. Put new axles in it, take it to Pep Boys for alignment. They say they can't do front until rear camber is adjusted. Sure enough, the rear wheels are slightly tilted inwards at the top.
Question: Should a better alignment shop be able to adjust this camber to OEM specs without aftermarket stuff? In crawling around under the car there is no evidence of damage or bent suspension pieces or a lowering kit. so I have no idea why the camber is off spec. (Car was not in any accidents.)
If this needs aftermarket parts, is there a good thread with pics to help me understand what needs to be done to what and how? I've found aftermarket vendors who claim to have "rear camber adjusters" for $50+ but before I invest in them or $60 bucks to have a shop tell me they can't do anything, I'm looking for advice...
Thanks,
BJ
Just bought a basically stock 98 Civic coupe. Put new axles in it, take it to Pep Boys for alignment. They say they can't do front until rear camber is adjusted. Sure enough, the rear wheels are slightly tilted inwards at the top.
Question: Should a better alignment shop be able to adjust this camber to OEM specs without aftermarket stuff? In crawling around under the car there is no evidence of damage or bent suspension pieces or a lowering kit. so I have no idea why the camber is off spec. (Car was not in any accidents.)
If this needs aftermarket parts, is there a good thread with pics to help me understand what needs to be done to what and how? I've found aftermarket vendors who claim to have "rear camber adjusters" for $50+ but before I invest in them or $60 bucks to have a shop tell me they can't do anything, I'm looking for advice...
Thanks,
BJ
#2
Still here... sorta...
I'm not sure why the camber might be off in the rear, but you can use longer bolts and shim the rear-upper stabilizing arm with washers to change the rear camber. It would cost you less than $10 to do.
You might have a more serious problem with your suspension if the car is stock and has these issues...
You might have a more serious problem with your suspension if the car is stock and has these issues...
#3
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HOw many miles on the car?
When were the shocks changed?
Look at teh springs to see if they are aftermarket.
Heavy stereo in the car?
When were the shocks changed?
Look at teh springs to see if they are aftermarket.
Heavy stereo in the car?
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#4
Thanks, guys...
Car has 150K miles, stock appearing springs, shocks. No signs of lowering kit installed and nothing in trunk except donut spare.
Is there a tread with some pics to show details of shimming upper or installing aftermarket camber adjusters before taking it to shop for final tweaking?
Thanks, again, for the help.
Car has 150K miles, stock appearing springs, shocks. No signs of lowering kit installed and nothing in trunk except donut spare.
Is there a tread with some pics to show details of shimming upper or installing aftermarket camber adjusters before taking it to shop for final tweaking?
Thanks, again, for the help.
#5
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It's super easy, just locate the upper stabilizing arm on the rear suspension.
Next, locate where this arm is attached to the frame of the car, there are bolts holding it in place. The idea is to place a couple of washers in-between the suspension arm and the frame, therefore making the arm "sit" farther out. This changes the camber as the upper arm is moved out, the wheel will sit flat on the ground.
U really just need to look at it, and it should make sense. Real easy...
Oh and don't pay $50 bucks for some longer bolts and 5 cent washers, get some at a hardware store... U need the longer bolt, cause without it, if you place washers in-between, the bolt will not be long enough to seat enough threads for it to be safe (ie your suspension falls apart LOL)
Good luck!
Next, locate where this arm is attached to the frame of the car, there are bolts holding it in place. The idea is to place a couple of washers in-between the suspension arm and the frame, therefore making the arm "sit" farther out. This changes the camber as the upper arm is moved out, the wheel will sit flat on the ground.
U really just need to look at it, and it should make sense. Real easy...
Oh and don't pay $50 bucks for some longer bolts and 5 cent washers, get some at a hardware store... U need the longer bolt, cause without it, if you place washers in-between, the bolt will not be long enough to seat enough threads for it to be safe (ie your suspension falls apart LOL)
Good luck!
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Okay first thing, the rear wheels are SUPPOSED to be tilted slightly inward towards the top. This is how they came from the factory. Camber spec on the rear wheels is -1 degree. You may not have any problem.
Second, Omni power makes a shim kit for 96-00 Civics that sells for $15. You may have a hard time finding the right bolts at your local hardware store because they are metric.
Third, a good alignment shop will have their own shims that they can use. If the camber only needs to be corrected a small amount, your stock bolts are porobably O.K. to use.
Fourth, don't go to Pep Boys. Go to a shop that specializes in Acura and Honda vehicles. This is the best way to avoid mistakes. These shops will have far more knowledge on your vehicle than most other ones. You still need to make sure the shop is reputable though. I have gone to "specialty" shops where the techs never even owned a Honda, and they made mistakes. Now I pay a LOT for a great shop. They have ASE certifications and Honda certifications out the ass. They don't make mistakes, and I have confidence that my car is put together correctly.
Florida
PS Look for a write up on this site by "chim chim" on a DIY suspension install on a 6th generation Civic. Part way through the write up, he goes over the "washer trick."
Second, Omni power makes a shim kit for 96-00 Civics that sells for $15. You may have a hard time finding the right bolts at your local hardware store because they are metric.
Third, a good alignment shop will have their own shims that they can use. If the camber only needs to be corrected a small amount, your stock bolts are porobably O.K. to use.
Fourth, don't go to Pep Boys. Go to a shop that specializes in Acura and Honda vehicles. This is the best way to avoid mistakes. These shops will have far more knowledge on your vehicle than most other ones. You still need to make sure the shop is reputable though. I have gone to "specialty" shops where the techs never even owned a Honda, and they made mistakes. Now I pay a LOT for a great shop. They have ASE certifications and Honda certifications out the ass. They don't make mistakes, and I have confidence that my car is put together correctly.
Florida
PS Look for a write up on this site by "chim chim" on a DIY suspension install on a 6th generation Civic. Part way through the write up, he goes over the "washer trick."
Last edited by Florida; 11-15-2006 at 08:04 AM.
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Good point Westcoaststyle, the strength is an important consideration.
Right, all Honda's have slightly negative camber in the rear... Unless the Pep-boys guys are complete idiots (highly probable) then there is really no cause for concern, if the camber is indeed in spec. (I thought it was out of spec, as he was told by Pep-boys)...
Yeah good point on the bolts, it may be harder to find metric, but they are out there. Just don't pay some moron from EBay $50 for a 10 cent bolt.
I would have to disagree with you about using the original bolts though. Having seen them firsthand, IMO they do not extend into the hole far enough that the adequate amount of threads would be available to hold the suspension in place. Better safe than sorry for $15 IMO.
I totally agree with you about Pep-boys. These are not SAE certified mechanics for the most part. I know it's just an alignment, but choose your shop well.
Right, all Honda's have slightly negative camber in the rear... Unless the Pep-boys guys are complete idiots (highly probable) then there is really no cause for concern, if the camber is indeed in spec. (I thought it was out of spec, as he was told by Pep-boys)...
Yeah good point on the bolts, it may be harder to find metric, but they are out there. Just don't pay some moron from EBay $50 for a 10 cent bolt.
I would have to disagree with you about using the original bolts though. Having seen them firsthand, IMO they do not extend into the hole far enough that the adequate amount of threads would be available to hold the suspension in place. Better safe than sorry for $15 IMO.
I totally agree with you about Pep-boys. These are not SAE certified mechanics for the most part. I know it's just an alignment, but choose your shop well.
#9
make sure you use all the same hardware (ex: grade 8 bolt and washers, dont mix and match), also make sure you follow the torque settings and maybe alittle bit of locktite...good luck