Valve Cover/Engine Bay painting help
#1
Valve Cover/Engine Bay painting help
hey members. i decided that i want to polish or paint my valve cover. i have problems before even starting. the weather is already cold and winter is right around the corner. also, i do not have a garage to be doing this in. is it possible for me to sand and polish my valve cover with it still attached to the block? and i also want to paint/dress up my engine bay. any pointers on which parts i should paint and wich parts i should just buy in that color. ive attached a pic of the engine bays that cought my eye
#2
1337 h4x0r
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hate to say it, but you've just described the worst possible painting conditions, minus a tornado or something. Painting should be done with the pieces removed and properly masked in a clean, windless, low-humidity environment with an ambient temp. of 68-90 degress Farenheit. I live in New Hampshire, and we haven't had any weather suitable for painting in about a month. As much as I hate to say it, you've either got to wait for the spring, or accept that your paint job will turn out like shit. Or pay someone to do it.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#6
I just did mine.
It's not the best job, and I made TONS of mistakes, but I took my time and made it looks pretty good. I'm almost done with it. You'll need aircraft stripper to get any of the OEM paint off of it. Start sanding with at least a 400 grit, then work it with 600 800 and 1000. I started cutting it with a cratex rubber abrasives on a Dremel, and I spent too much time trying to get the cuts out. I cut WAY too deep.
When you've hit it with 1000 to 1500 grit, you'll need to hit it with a black emery, then red and eventually finish with white on a buffing wheel. Here's a DIY from pretty much the ONLY site I could find that will help you polish your stuff.
It's a GREAT write-up from a guy knows what he's doing. I got most of the tools he used on Craig's List under the tool section. I joined this site as well. Lots of cool heads that will help you.
http://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?t=1755
It's not the best job, and I made TONS of mistakes, but I took my time and made it looks pretty good. I'm almost done with it. You'll need aircraft stripper to get any of the OEM paint off of it. Start sanding with at least a 400 grit, then work it with 600 800 and 1000. I started cutting it with a cratex rubber abrasives on a Dremel, and I spent too much time trying to get the cuts out. I cut WAY too deep.
When you've hit it with 1000 to 1500 grit, you'll need to hit it with a black emery, then red and eventually finish with white on a buffing wheel. Here's a DIY from pretty much the ONLY site I could find that will help you polish your stuff.
It's a GREAT write-up from a guy knows what he's doing. I got most of the tools he used on Craig's List under the tool section. I joined this site as well. Lots of cool heads that will help you.
http://forum.caswellplating.com/showthread.php?t=1755
Last edited by Chefboiali; 10-22-2006 at 08:17 PM.
#8
Your Powder Coater
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Girard, Ohio
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I polished my Intake Manifold / Dizzy / Exterior of my Head / ect. & they came out really nice.
as far as my valve cover goes, I powder coated that.
You will notice that polished items under your hood will require much more maintence then something that is powder coated. Polished surfaces often oxidize & will need re-polished on a regular basis. You always have the option to clear coat them but you will notice that often times the clear coat will fade & turn to a yellowish color.
Here are a couple of my pix that were already on HAN, there are more if you search for them.
as far as my valve cover goes, I powder coated that.
You will notice that polished items under your hood will require much more maintence then something that is powder coated. Polished surfaces often oxidize & will need re-polished on a regular basis. You always have the option to clear coat them but you will notice that often times the clear coat will fade & turn to a yellowish color.
Here are a couple of my pix that were already on HAN, there are more if you search for them.
#10
Your Powder Coater
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Girard, Ohio
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Depending on the metals, sometimes when the powder is curing, it throws a slight tint to the polished surface tho. Saves you hours & hours of cleaning & re-polishing tho.
Keep workin on that valve cover you have there, take it all the way to 2500 gritt & it will look like a mirror, i still see a lot of hayse in those progress pix u posted. lookin good tho!